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Verto Slave Cylinder Replacement


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#1 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 04 October 2018 - 03:35 PM

Hi folks,

 

Long story short I replaced my verto slave cylinder due to loosing pressure after 3 or 4 pumps of the clutch.

 

OK - done that what a fiddly pain in the A@@ but all connected back up and was trying to bleed when......... There seems to now be a leak in the flexi pipe that runs from the reservoir to the cylinder. Question - I cant see how I can change this without removing the brake master cylinder etc - any advice or guidance would be appreciated!!

 

Thanks in Advance 

 

 



#2 cal844

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Posted 04 October 2018 - 03:40 PM

The pipe should come out the top of the master then to the engine stabiliser plate where it meets the Flexi pipe

#3 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 04 October 2018 - 03:46 PM

The pipe should come out the top of the master then to the engine stabiliser plate where it meets the Flexi pipe

 

Yes this is correct. The flexi pipe near to the clutch slave cylinder (think thats the name) is where I have the issues - Just trying to get my arm down the back is tight enough 



#4 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 05 October 2018 - 10:20 AM

Any advice for getting to the flexi pipe without taking the engine bay apart? also if I move the brake servo would I need to bleed the entire braking system?

 

Thanks 



#5 Bat

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Posted 05 October 2018 - 12:45 PM

Hi

You don't need to touch the brakes.

Unscrew and remove the metal pipe from the master cylinder to the bracket.

Then get a socket to fit the nut on the flexible hose and with a spanner underneath the bracket unscrew the big nut with the ratchet and socket.

Unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the hose and cylinder together.

You can now unscrew the hose from the cylinder and fit the new one.

Cheers  :proud:



#6 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 11:00 AM

Hi

You don't need to touch the brakes.

Unscrew and remove the metal pipe from the master cylinder to the bracket.

Then get a socket to fit the nut on the flexible hose and with a spanner underneath the bracket unscrew the big nut with the ratchet and socket.

Unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the hose and cylinder together.

You can now unscrew the hose from the cylinder and fit the new one.

Cheers  :proud:

 

Thank you! will have a go this weekend and hope it goes as well as suggested lol! 



#7 Bat

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 12:03 PM

Hi,

It's a mini so I'm afraid I can't guarantee that!  :lol:

Cheers  :proud:



#8 BaronVonchesto

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 01:43 PM

perhaps take a picture of your engine bay? If you have the japanese style vacuum assist brake master cylinder, that gets in the way of a lot of things



#9 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 05:40 PM

Hi,
It's a mini so I'm afraid I can't guarantee that!  :lol:
Cheers  :proud:


Ok - update! Everything is seized solid and even with soaking for hours in Wd40 there's no chance.... so removed the brake servo for access and still could get them to detach! :( so thinking new nut and to cut the old off.. what a pain!!!! In addition tried to get engine steady bolt out as have some replacement bushes and that's in solid 2! Best place to get replacement nut and bolts anyone??? Please hope nothing else with go wrong lol

#10 Dusky

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 06:08 PM

Suggestion n° 1 : ditch the wd40. And get a proper penetrating oil.

#11 Bat

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 10:48 PM

Hi,

I think the nut for the clutch hose is the same as the ones on the front brake flexible hoses.

 Cheers  :proud:



#12 Magneto

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 02:19 AM

You can replace the short line between the master cylinder and where it joins the flexible hose - just cut it off just above the nut and now you can use a six point socket on the nut, that way you won't round it off like you will with an open end wrench or even a line wrench. Once apart buy a new flex hose and a new short pipe. Bleed as usual and Job done. However if you're still on the original master, I would replace it too...they really are consumables.



#13 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 07:21 AM

You can replace the short line between the master cylinder and where it joins the flexible hose - just cut it off just above the nut and now you can use a six point socket on the nut, that way you won't round it off like you will with an open end wrench or even a line wrench. Once apart buy a new flex hose and a new short pipe. Bleed as usual and Job done. However if you're still on the original master, I would replace it too...they really are consumables.

 

Thank you, have already tried this and its absolutely solid... 2 sockets and a sore arm later lol!

 

Think I will get the dremel out and cut the nut off... Not a clue what to do with the engine steady bar nut of it wont loosen :(



#14 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 08:34 AM

Suggestion n° 1 : ditch the wd40. And get a proper penetrating oil.

 

Any recommendations?



#15 KTS

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 11:49 AM

PlusGas is what i use.  can't comment on how it compares to others, but works for me.  mostly.  a dremel usually sorts out what plusgas doesn't






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