13 replies to this topic

[RallyFritz]

Hello everyone!

 

After nearly two decades of dreaming of my first Mini, it's finally here! Introducing my 1989 Rover Mini that I just imported from Japan. While it is a bit of a fixer-upper, it was an incredible value for an otherwise running and driving Mini.

 

My projects are as follows - refresh the cooling system and change all other fluids (in progress)

Diagnose what seems to be a fairly serious electrical problem (unexpected, but live and learn)

 

1989 Rover Mini 1000, single-instrument pack, RHD 

 

- The car itself runs and drives well, although I currently have the cooling system apart for overhaul

- Headlights, taillights and gauge cluster lights work intermittently, no pattern determined

- No function from oil pressure or water temperature gauge

- Nothing on the left hand stalk (horn, directionals, hi-beam) works at all

- No brake lights (reverse light appears nonexistent at this time)

- Wipers, HVAC blower and four-way flashers work.

- All fuses in the engine bay fuse block appear to be in working order

 

I currently have the dash cover and gauge cluster pulled so I can start examining and testing as I familiarize myself with the wiring diagrams (thanks for those!), but I was curious to see if anyone sees a stupid-obvious reason for so many simultaneous failures.

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[nicklouse]

i have a feeling that your issue could be to do with a dash change at some time. it would have a good look behind it.

[RallyFritz]

Right now I have the dash trim removed and the gauge cluster pulled out so I can see all the wiring behind it. Right now everything looks intact and complete, but I'll have to start referencing the wiring diagrams next time I work on it to see if everything matches up. I haven't found any loose grounds or evidence of hacked wiring as of yet - I'll take pictures next time I'm in the car.

[Bat]

Hi,

Happy new mini!

Right, exterior lights, probably the switch on the dash or plug on the back, melted or dirty connections.

 

The oil pressure gauge is mechanical and your engine still has an oil pressure switch fitted and no sign to a pipe to the guage.

 

Water temperature gauge, disconnect the green/blue from the sender and earth it to the engine, with the ignition on the guage should rise to the top, report back.

 

Left hand stalk, is it plugged in? That's the only thing all those things have in common or you've got a lot more problems!

 

Brake lights, switch is on the top of the pedal. Join the wires together, see what happens....

 

Personally I'd remove the fusebox throw it over my shoulder and fit a new one, the same with any inline fuse holders on the bulkhead by the air filter. 

 

Cheers 

[RallyFritz]

Thanks for the information!

 

I had a little time to get looking into the brake switch circuit this morning, nothing appears to happen when I connect the wires together directly, but when checking continuity between them I'm seeing 0.8 - 1.6 mega ohms. Looks like I should start by checking fuses along all circuits - as of right now I've located the four-fuse block on the firewall and it looks like many of the circuits behind the dashboard have fuses wired inline. I also located one split wire, red with a blue stripe, that attaches to a ground on the inner fender behind the dashboard.

[nicklouse]

quick question what does it say it is on the papers?

[RallyFritz]

quick question what does it say it is on the papers?

 

Pardon my ignorance, but do you mean what exact build the car is listed as, or disclosed issues, or something else? Either way, sorry for the misunderstanding!

 

In the meantime, the car is listed as a 1989 Rover Mini 99X, and unfortunately the electrical issues were not disclosed. While I will be compensated somewhat financially for that, I definitely seem to have some work ahead of me. Sadly the drawback of buying a car sight-unseen from Japan - live and learn! At least it runs and drives for starters. 

 

I'm starting to uncover some pretty messy wiring, sadly. Looks like it will be a great idea to source a Haynes manual for this generation Mini and start printing out the wiring diagrams to determine if any of this mess is actual factory wiring or if someone tried to rewire the car themselves. Either way, I have all autumn and winter to work on this Mini before I can really drive it, so I'll persevere!

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[nicklouse]

my reason for the asking is that an 89 did not have that clock set up and your pictures show it has you can see the silhouette of the original 2 clock cluster that would have been in front of the driver.  and as the top and lower dash rails have been removed there is some homemade plate for the switches.

 

wiring diagrams can be found at the top of this forum.

[RallyFritz]

Perhaps that explains a lot of the issues I'm having then - and also why it has the mechanical oil pressure gauge but does not appear to have any plumbing for that to actually work. As much as I love the look of the classic center clock design (evidently a previous owner of this Mini did too), looks like I should research getting the correct two-clock cluster as well.

[nicklouse]

as you have what you have i would work with it. wiring take time. there are companies that do nice switch plates. and the oil pressure gauge just need a T piece and some hose with the fittings on it.

[Bat]

Hi,

It doesn't matter what set-up you go for at this point, you've got lots of wiring to sort out!

Either repair what's been done or cut it all out and rewire to fit the original 2 clock binnacle...

Cheers 

[RallyFritz]

Just wanted to update that I've made a lot of progress with this Mini. I was initially at a stage where I was considering having to rewire the whole car with a loom from Minisport, but I'm starting to suspect I may not have to do that at all.

 

- Intermittent headlight issue was a mix of a bad switch and a dodgy old connector - replaced the connector and headlight switch and it's officially working all the time instead of when it wants to.

 

- Had the issue of extremely fast four-way flashers only and no directional indicators, and no brake lights. New hazard switch, new hazard and indicator relays for good measure. Installed a new fuse panel which brought the indicators back online, as well as the brake lights.

 

At this point, now it comes down to a few more things!

 

- Car has a Smiths mechanical oil pressure gauge but the engine has an electrical oil pressure pickup only, need to rectify that

- Final thing not working "on the stalk" is the horn

- Should install a reverse light as there is not one whatsoever

- Put the cooling system back together!

 

So far so good guys, thanks for the tips and advice!

[cal844]

Reverse lights won't be an issue if the car has the earlier rear light units.

Test the horn by temporarily using the coil live, if it works then you know it's a bad stalk, which can be a mare to change.

[RallyFritz]

Hi everyone,

 

Still making good progress along with the Mini - plumbed the mechanical oil pressure gauge as well. Just waiting on a few more items from Mini Sport before I can put the whole cooling system back together. Since I've never so much as seen under the hood of a Mini before this one, there's a few small things I can't figure out that the Haynes manual isn't helping me with:

 

- A couple of seemingly missing hoses, but unsure where they are supposed to go. See pictures for reference.

- Since this was a Japanese-market Mini, it had AC, but the compressor had been disconnected so I decided best to remove it and move the alternator back to the normal location. Are there any non-AC brackets I need to order to put the alternator in the normal spot? Should I also remove that additional tensioner, or is that always there regardless of AC?

 

Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

 

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