1275 Engine Rebuild
Posted 11 February 2019 - 08:19 PM
And definitely forget springs - just install new, GENUINE donuts.
Little gain in increasing track (I’m assume you have disc brakes) and it will almost certainly mess up the suspension geometry.
Bad tramlining means you need to get the suspension alignment (tracking, camber and caster) measured, adjusted and optimised. This may involve fitting adjustable kit.
Posted 11 February 2019 - 08:29 PM
You'll get a little more noise transmitted to the shell through solid mounts, but a minor downside compared to the potential gains
If you go with solid mounts, the rear and tower bolt mounts (spacer top & bottom) must be done at the same time. The front teardrop mount I think is less critical. As long as the rear and top mounts are solidly fixed the front of the subframe shouldn't move, so the standard rubber teardrop mounts should be OK to hold the front panel in place
Also worth considering reinforcing the toeboard around the subframe mounts if you're switching to solids mounts
Posted 11 February 2019 - 09:09 PM
Posted 11 February 2019 - 09:50 PM
Posted 12 February 2019 - 12:00 AM
If you want it to drive as the original Mini did with that special precision and great steering response, then fit the solid mounts to the sub-frame. Do not fit those horrible poly ones.
As mentioned before, the reason the car was fitted with rubber front sub-frame mounts was because at that time the target market had changed form younger drivers to middle-aged lady drivers, so NHV reduction was considered more important than dynamic steering response. So the question is whether you want an 'old ladies' Mini or a 'responsive' mini. The choice it yours. Personally, I never notice much difference in noise, harshness and vibration with solid rather than rubber mounts, but there is a great difference in feel and steering response with solid.
Posted 12 February 2019 - 07:59 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users