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1275 Engine Rebuild


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#91 Wiggy

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 12:52 PM

I had the 2.76 in my MPi S. Was nice to cruise with, but a pain at lower speeds, especially with the lack of low down torque. Kept having to shift to 1st.

Fitted a 3.1 and cam to boost low down torque and I think it's the perfect balance.

With more low down torque, you can get away with a taller final drive, as the Turbo boys do.

#92 Will96

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 11:32 AM

Yeah. With the upgrade to a 1380 I am going have more torque but then i don't want to go and remove all of that with too tall of a final drive. A 2.9 I think would be the tallest I should realistically go as I don't want to make a mini that more of a hastle to drive in towns and citys. But yeah a 3.1 would be perfect other than it looks as though I'd have to buy one. And that's not so perfect lol

#93 macaldron

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 03:08 PM

Last year I built up a 1330 with an SW5 cam, HIF44 carb, electronic dizzy, big valve 12g940 head, and a 3.1 fd...it is a BLAST to drive!  Around the back roads we can use 2nd and 3rd and enjoy the torque, and on the freeway at 65-70 mph it's not any louder than the road noise.  I considered a 3.44fd, and went with the 3.1 because, well, it's what I had, but also I didn't want to sit at quite so high RPM at speed.  I'm completely satisfied with the 3.1.  If I had to do again, I'd still go with the 3.1.



#94 Will96

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Posted 30 March 2019 - 10:06 AM

So just checked my 2nd gearbox and its running a 3.64. So looks like I'll be running a 3.44 to begin with and upgrading to a 3.1 or 2.9 at a later date once everything else with the engine is finished and working

#95 Inno

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Posted 31 March 2019 - 11:52 PM

Last year I built up a 1330 with an SW5 cam, HIF44 carb, electronic dizzy, big valve 12g940 head, and a 3.1 fd...it is a BLAST to drive!  Around the back roads we can use 2nd and 3rd and enjoy the torque, and on the freeway at 65-70 mph it's not any louder than the road noise.  I considered a 3.44fd, and went with the 3.1 because, well, it's what I had, but also I didn't want to sit at quite so high RPM at speed.  I'm completely satisfied with the 3.1.  If I had to do again, I'd still go with the 3.1.

I am building almost similar configuration and have 3.2 diff from 1992 Cooper engine....so guess it shall be more than a fun to drive...I was also looking for 3.44 but now convinced I am more than ok with 3.2...even for a highway but I think I will avoid it whenever is possible and enjoy classic roads and curves instead...



#96 Will96

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 06:17 PM

Moving onto dizzy then. I'm aware that 123 ignition models would be the obvious choice. However in the projects current state I just want to get this engine running and things like the dizzy can be upgraded in the future once I know the engine runs and I can spend a bit more money on fine tweaking it for performance. So that being said has anyone had any experience with this mini spares model (http://www.minispare.../C-27H7701.aspx) I know they're guilty of tooting their own horn a bit too much in certain areas. However, I have put an evolution001 cam in the build so makes sense to me in pairing the two items up. Thanks :)

#97 johnR

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 12:22 PM

I've put a 123+tune Bluetooth on the engine I'm just finishing - I really like the immobiliser function and flexibility. SC parts gave me discount which helped as well. Can't wait to get it back in the car and out on the road.



#98 Will96

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 01:29 PM

To be fair I might have a 65DM4 sat needing some TLC. Just need to clean the body do I can identify it properly, but realistically I suppose that would put me on until I can afford something like the 123 you mentioned John. I had a look at them and they definitely look the dogs whoo-haas

#99 Will96

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 10:52 PM

Right. Clarified that it's a 65dm4 dizzy, needs a new rotor arm and cap, but other than that the vacuum advance works fine. So from what I've read on here as long as I get the curve seen to by a specialist, it should do for now ar least? Also have a hif6 which I know shares parts with hif44's so if i bought a kit for a 44 would i be able to service the 6?

#100 Will96

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:27 PM

My current 998 is fitted with standard points and condenser. The car is a 1977 850 with modified wiring to run the a+ engines. Since I plan on fitting a 65dm4 dizzy with a DLB105 coil, would I need to modify the wiring further to run electronic ignition and fit the intended dizzy. Thanks

#101 Will96

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Posted 17 May 2019 - 12:56 PM

Not sure if this topic gets many visits anymore, but for consistency thought I'd keep updating it with progress until I'm done with the project. Latest is I've gone through and checked my gearboxes, had two 3.6 diffs which were fine and a 3.44 with an exploded double roller bearing, so stolen the 3.44 diff from that one and swapped it with one of the others that were in alright condition. Cleaned and painted, just one clutch casing bolt hole that has stripped threads that I'm going to drill out and re-thread. Sticking with 12G940 head with standard rockers and valves, as i haven't got the money to upgrade these now but intend on doing so in the future. Uprated 65amp alternator to go on it, reconditioned hif6 carb (one that i already had around or i would've gone hif44) with K&N filter, 65DM4 dizzy with GLC143 coil.

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#102 Minigman

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Posted 17 May 2019 - 06:16 PM

Coming along nicely Will96.




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