10 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

This may seem bonkers but hear me out.

 

I am lifting my 998 A+ to refurbish the engine compartment and Subframe (7.5 Disc Conversion and Suspension for Geometry).

Whilst the 998 is out I am considering having it re-worked with a 12G295 head, cam, electronic ignition, re-bore to 1097, Stage One Kit.

 

I have a 1275 A+ MG Metro (Identified in another thread about the cylinder head) which I have pulled from one of three old Metros that I am breaking. The intention was to sell as many parts as poss to fund my next project however I am now in two minds (not yet decided), whether to keep the 1275 and sell the 998.

 

My idea (and this may be the bonkers bit) is to fit the 1275 whilst my 998 is out and then be able to sell it as a runner (I could bench test it). 

So to that end I am considering getting the 1275 running at minimum cost, head will be refurbished and block will probably be taken out to 1293, unless I can hone the block then it will be just new rings. Standard Cam.

 

The 1275 will need some extra bits to get it going / fit it and I want to make sure anything that I buy could be used in my later build - the 998 if possible. 

 

In order to help me decide I am pricing up the cost options and getting a clear idea of what is involved.

 

Radiator

I have been advised that the standard radiator is barely sufficient to cool a 1275 so a new 2 Core would be needed.  Obviously the re-worked 998 would benefit.

 

Alternator

The 1275 did not have an alternator so will my 998 alternator be OK?

 

Engine Mounts

Do I need any extra engine stabilizers for either the 1275 or a more torquey 1097.

 

Carb

For the 1275 I have either a HIF44 or a HIF38

 

Stage One Kit

This is a tricky one. For the 1275 I will use the Metro Inlet Manifold and poss the Exhaust Manifold but my standard exhaust may not fit. I will be buying a Stage One for the 1097 but would any parts from this be suitable for use on the 1275. Or should I pull an exhaust from the Metro and hack it up?

 

Distributor / Ignition

I have a spare Distributor Lucas 59D4 which I could fit - just need some new points etc. The 998 will get an Electronic Ignition I guess the 1097 and 1275 would require a different one? But this one appears to suit both.

 

Clutch / Bell Housing

I have read that the bell housing is different? Is it? Would the Metro Bell Housing fit in the engine bay. What modification need doing to the clutch mechanism. It looks like someone fitted a new clutch at some point in the cars life so I may re-use it or buy a new one and get it balanced with the existing flywheel.

 

Anything I have missed? Probably loads!!

 

Barking mad I know as I should just go all out on the 1275 - but just throwing it out there.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 15 October 2018 - 10:50 AM.

[nicklouse]

to be honest after the 1275 being in the car you will not want to put the 998 back in.

 

build up the 1275 well and sorted.

[ukcooper]

keep em both as there getting rare 

[JonnyAlpha]

to be honest after the 1275 being in the car you will not want to put the 998 back in.

 

build up the 1275 well and sorted.

 

Yes that would probably be the case and once it's in (and decided it's a keeper) I would hardly want to start dismantling it again, so it may well be a do it right do it once scenario but getting back to the questions so I can make an informed decision on the costs involved.

[JonnyAlpha]

keep em both as there getting rare 

 

Space and money I probably would but we will see.

I have another 1275 and a 998 (Both A+) that I am removing from the donor vehicles to sell on anyway.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 17 October 2018 - 07:06 PM.

[nicklouse]

 

to be honest after the 1275 being in the car you will not want to put the 998 back in.

 

build up the 1275 well and sorted.

 

Yes that would probably be the case and once it's in (and decided it's a keeper) I would hardly want to start dismantling it again, so it may well be a do it right do it once scenario but getting back to the questions so I can make an informed decision on the costs involved.

 

costs for prepping an engine are the same give or take a tenner.

[JonnyAlpha]

to be honest after the 1275 being in the car you will not want to put the 998 back in.

build up the 1275 well and sorted.

Yes that would probably be the case and once it's in (and decided it's a keeper) I would hardly want to start dismantling it again, so it may well be a do it right do it once scenario but getting back to the questions so I can make an informed decision on the costs involved.

costs for prepping an engine are the same give or take a tenner.

Yeh happy with that but it's the cost of anything that is external to the engine that is not compatible with both.

[JonnyAlpha]

Thought I'd keep the questions ref this part of my project her in one place:

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. On a crank shaft - what are the journals?

 

2. What lubrication should you use when installing the crankshaft bearings?

 

3. What grease should be used when fitting the thrust washers?

 

4. Can the old thrust washers be re-used?

 

5. Before I remove the crank (As the block is still assembled), what can I check for wear on the crank, the con rods and pistons (although the pistons will be repalced as its going out to 1298.

 

5. Whilst looking at some videos to help me with the rebuild once I get the machining done, I came across this one by MiniMania, typically American - massive clean workshop!!

Anyway at about 2:20 into the video he gets the centre main cap and fits it, I may be wrong but he does not seem to lubricate the bearing before he drops it onto the crank!!

 

Anyone point me to a video / videos on rebuilding engines that have no errors? 

 

Thanks  

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 30 October 2018 - 08:28 AM.

[Cooperman]

Thought I'd keep the questions ref this part of my project her in one place:

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. On a crank shaft - what are the journals?

 

2. What lubrication should you use when installing the crankshaft bearings?

Engine Assembly Lube

 

3. Shat grease should be used when fitting the thrust washers?

Engine Assembly Lube

 

4. Can the old thrust washers be re-used?

No, always fit new ones of the correct thickness

 

5. Before I remove the crank (As the block is still assembled), what can I check for wear on the crank, the con rods and pistons (although the pistons will be repalced as its going out to 1298.

The crankshaft must be removed for accurate measurement.

 

5. Whilst looking at some videos to help me with the rebuild once I get the machining done, I came across this one by MiniMania, typically American - massive clean workshop!!

Anyway at about 2:20 into the video he gets the centre main cap and fits it, I may be wrong but he does not seem to lubricate the bearing before he drops it onto the crank!!

Always lubricate the bearing shell faces before assembly.

 

Anyone point me to a video / videos on rebuilding engines that have no errors? 

 

Thanks  

[GraemeC]

The crankshaft journals are the 7 machined areas that run in the main and big end bearings.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

Thought I'd keep the questions ref this part of my project her in one place:

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. On a crank shaft - what are the journals?

 

2. What lubrication should you use when installing the crankshaft bearings?

Engine Assembly Lube

 

3. Shat grease should be used when fitting the thrust washers?

Engine Assembly Lube

 

4. Can the old thrust washers be re-used?

No, always fit new ones of the correct thickness

 

5. Before I remove the crank (As the block is still assembled), what can I check for wear on the crank, the con rods and pistons (although the pistons will be repalced as its going out to 1298.

The crankshaft must be removed for accurate measurement.

 

5. Whilst looking at some videos to help me with the rebuild once I get the machining done, I came across this one by MiniMania, typically American - massive clean workshop!!

Anyway at about 2:20 into the video he gets the centre main cap and fits it, I may be wrong but he does not seem to lubricate the bearing before he drops it onto the crank!!

Always lubricate the bearing shell faces before assembly.

 

Anyone point me to a video / videos on rebuilding engines that have no errors? 

 

Thanks  

 

 

Question 4 - Ah yes I watched the rest of the video and saw him measuring the end float on the crank. On this an other videos I have seen they use a dial gauge with a magnetic base for measuring the end float. Can the same tool be used for measuring TDC on the pistons for setting the timing gear when re-assembling? 

 

Any recommendations on which Dial Gauge / Mag Base to use the prices vary greatly. Like this one.

 

Just measured the end float using feeler gauges between the thrust washer on one side of the centre cap. There is about 5 thou (005?) movement? Well I couldn't fit the 006 feeler blade in but I could get the 004 in, so 005 at a guess?

 

Does this seem about right?

 

According to some reading such as this it's all a bit confusing what is needed. 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 30 October 2018 - 08:16 PM.