13 replies to this topic

[jime17]

Hi.

I'm going to do an auto to manual swap in my garage as by block and tackle hung from a beam. I was intending to lift the engine and then roll the car back a metre out of the garage, then winch up the new engine and roll the car back in and drop new engine..... simple heh? Probably not.. .

Am I best disconnecting top and bottom ball joints on both sides, freeing both drive shafts lifting engine and reconnecting all 4 ball joints (and both track rods) to roll the car?

Or can I get away with splitting top ball joint only?

Or should I make up some sort of dolly to roll the front of the car on so I'm not faffing doing up ball joints just to move the car?

What are my options here? I've not done this before so dont know what works best and is simplest?

Just a note.. I don't have a driveway as such or flat area for an engine hoist so I have to do it in my garage.. .

Any advice?

Cheers.

[Bat]

Hi,

If you're swapping the subframe too leave the engine in and lift the car off the subframe.

Wheel next subframe in and lower car...

Cheers 

[jime17]

I'm afraid subframe is staying. With additional spacers of course.

[Wiggy]

Personally, I split the top ball joint and the track rod ball joint, then withdraw the shafts.

A cheap metric and imperial tap and die set is great for cleaning the threads, and makes it much easier to do them back up.

[jime17]

I assume you can move the hubs enough to get the shaft clear of the diff with just the top bj' s split?

Also.... shaft out of pot joint or pot joint off of diff?

[Wiggy]

It's possible on at least one side, but make life easy for yourself and split both. I did it just the other day. You'll probably need a splitter.

Pot joint off of the diff. A bolster chisel pivoting on a ½" socket sat on a diff side cover bolt, then a sharp tap with a hammer works well. A tip I read on here.

[johnR]

I took my engine out a couple of days ago - I split just the top ball joints (by whacking the side of the part of the wishbone that the balljoint bolt goes through with a big hammer once the nut is loosened)On one side the pot separated from the diff easily by levering with a big screwdriver, the other wouldn't budge so I removed the rubber boot to allow the joint to part. Remember that if you remove a pot any oil in the gearbox will deposit itself on your garage floor. make sure your strap/rope doesn't trap the driveshaft/s against the engine or you'll be lifting the whole car. Protect the engine bay paintwork with cardboard.

[jime17]

Thanks. I'm guessing my best option for moving the car is to redo the ball joints and tre's and roll it back. I want to make things as simple as posdible

[Bat]

Hi,

Ball joints in just put the nuts on loose. Tre the same.

Cheers 

[jime17]

Yeah. Seems the best way. Garage is quite narrow so not much room either side.... I'll just have to do as best I can...

[jime17]

It's possible on at least one side, but make life easy for yourself and split both. I did it just the other day. You'll probably need a splitter.

Pot joint off of the diff. A bolster chisel pivoting on a ½" socket sat on a diff side cover bolt, then a sharp tap with a hammer works well. A tip I read on here.

Sorry wiggy. Missed this..

I've got a splitter so I'll do both as suggested... good tip about the socket. Avoids damaging the diff case I guess?

[johnR]

The splitter invariably damages the rubber boots - which is fine if you are going to replace the ball joints, not so good if they don't need doing.

[jime17]

It's a scissor type not a pickle fork so hopefully not but I'll get some as a precaution

[Wiggy]

I have a scissor one. Apply some grease to the ball joint boot first. Helps avoid any damage.