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Electronic Distributor / Ignition Live Feed

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Best Answer Chelsea_Pete , 24 October 2018 - 04:26 PM

Just a follow up for anyone else out there - Wiring in to fuse 1 (lh) has solved the issue.
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#1 Chelsea_Pete

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 12:06 PM

Hi All, last week I (finally) upgraded to and electronic dizzy, happy to say its running far better already than it ever did on points.

However, I initially wired it to the + side of the coil (Im running a non-ballasted system with the dlb105 sports coil), and this has been draining my battery with the ignition off.

So I need to wire it into a feed thats ignition only, does anyone have a recommendation? Have space on the top (#1) fuse in the box if this is ignition only? (indicators, reversing lights etc)

Thanks in advance, Pete



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 01:10 PM

the pos side of the coil should be ignition controlled (or you could not turn the engine off) so I would be checking your wiring.



#3 paul748

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 01:32 PM

You are correct, fuse 1 is ignition switched.

When fitting a non ballasted coil to a car originally wired for ballasted ignition, you need to run a wire ( preferably white) from fuse 1 (lh terminal) to the positive side of the coil.

This feed then also supplies the electronic distributor(red wire)

zQiMfhr.jpg



#4 Chelsea_Pete

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 01:47 PM

You are correct, fuse 1 is ignition switched.

When fitting a non ballasted coil to a car originally wired for ballasted ignition, you need to run a wire ( preferably white) from fuse 1 (lh terminal) to the positive side of the coil.

This feed then also supplies the electronic distributor(red wire)

zQiMfhr.jpg

Ah now that's interesting, I've got the feed to my coil running from the 3 white wires pictured, one of which gets a feed from fuse 1, the other 2 running into the ignition loom. I had previously replaced the pink ballast wire in the photo with a standard wire.

post-107636-0-74815300-1533578826.jpg

So I assume this would then work in the same way as yours Paul. For now I've wired the dizzy feed to the fusebox instead and will have to wait to see if I still have the battery drain issue



#5 nicklouse

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 02:08 PM

if you had a drain before you will still have it.

 

go by a multimeter and see what the drain is. then pull the fuses to see which circuit is causing the issue.

 

and as I have said that is a switched feed any way. if it was not you could not turn the engine off. and that also means your drain was not from attaching the dizzy feed to the coil.



#6 Chelsea_Pete

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 05:16 PM

if you had a drain before you will still have it.

 

go by a multimeter and see what the drain is. then pull the fuses to see which circuit is causing the issue.

 

and as I have said that is a switched feed any way. if it was not you could not turn the engine off. and that also means your drain was not from attaching the dizzy feed to the coil.

Hi nick, what you are saying sounds correct, I'll leave it again overnight to see if the issue persists, if so then I'll conclude that the issue isn't with the electronic ignition, and that it must just be a coincidence that it began around the time I installed it

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#7 Chelsea_Pete

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 04:26 PM   Best Answer

Just a follow up for anyone else out there - Wiring in to fuse 1 (lh) has solved the issue.
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