Boot Floor Replacement
#1
Posted 11 November 2018 - 06:55 PM
The two wheel arches will have been replaced before I cut the boot floor out.
I have a new rear valance, floor to wheel arch brackets, and the rear valance closure plates and subframe brackets.
As I'm not great at welding upside down, would it be a good idea to assemble and weld all of these parts to the boot floor before I weld the boot floor in the car or an I likely to run into trouble?
#2
Posted 11 November 2018 - 07:01 PM
I'm about to replace the boot floor with a full bmh boot floor panel with battery box.
The two wheel arches will have been replaced before I cut the boot floor out.
I have a new rear valance, floor to wheel arch brackets, and the rear valance closure plates and subframe brackets.
As I'm not great at welding upside down, would it be a good idea to assemble and weld all of these parts to the boot floor before I weld the boot floor in the car or an I likely to run into trouble?
Nope is the answer here. You can weld it all on the boot side if so desired. It just means with the rear valance close out plates you will need to drill through the boot floor to the closeout panel then plug weld.
So fit the boot floor, trial fit everything else then either skin pin in place or clamp and then weld away. No need to weld it all together before hand. this will create its own set of unique issues if you miss clamp something.
#3
Posted 11 November 2018 - 07:16 PM
Nope is the answer here. You can weld it all on the boot side if so desired. It just means with the rear valance close out plates you will need to drill through the boot floor to the closeout panel then plug weld.
Thanks. I had trouble when welding the inner wing to door stiffener as plug weld was not penetrating the stiffener panel, so thought it might also be easier to drill through the thicker plate and plug weld to the thinner metal. I guess I can just crank up the amperage or make the holes larger.
#4
Posted 11 November 2018 - 07:38 PM
Nope is the answer here. You can weld it all on the boot side if so desired. It just means with the rear valance close out plates you will need to drill through the boot floor to the closeout panel then plug weld.
Thanks. I had trouble when welding the inner wing to door stiffener as plug weld was not penetrating the stiffener panel, so thought it might also be easier to drill through the thicker plate and plug weld to the thinner metal. I guess I can just crank up the amperage or make the holes larger.
What size holes are you drilling?? Anything seriously structural like the close out panels I would be drilling 1/4” holes, I do not go any smaller than 3/16th anyway. That is normally dependant on the width of the flange. On my 135TE I up the wire speed to 8.5 and full power.
#5
Posted 12 November 2018 - 06:44 AM
I've got a 16 amp supply now so this won't be a problem this time round.
#6
Posted 13 November 2018 - 03:56 PM
What size holes are you drilling?? Anything seriously structural like the close out panels I would be drilling 1/4” holes, I do not go any smaller than 3/16th anyway. That is normally dependant on the width of the flange. On my 135TE I up the wire speed to 8.5 and full power.
Neil, why don't you blow holes in the metal at that power ???
#7
Posted 13 November 2018 - 04:18 PM
What size holes are you drilling?? Anything seriously structural like the close out panels I would be drilling 1/4” holes, I do not go any smaller than 3/16th anyway. That is normally dependant on the width of the flange. On my 135TE I up the wire speed to 8.5 and full power.
Neil, why don't you blow holes in the metal at that power ???
Pete, the multiple layers of metal there quite happily take that sort of power. All of my plugs are the same, dont forget its only one hole in the flange you are welding to and blank metal behind.
Never have an issue with blowing through.
#8
Posted 13 November 2018 - 04:21 PM
And as i mentioned, the hole on the left was low power with poor weld characteristics.
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