One Carb Or Two?
Posted 17 November 2018 - 12:19 PM
Hi,
Due to strange clutch noises when I last had my Mini on the road, I'm currently changing my clutch whilst its out of the car. The Haynes manual says to check for end float on the primary gear, but doesn't really give much detail.
There is some float, but is this acceptable?
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 17 November 2018 - 12:21 PM
I also thought I would check for play in the diff, and this is what I found:
The movement of the right hand pot joint is concerning me, is that a worn differential?
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 17 November 2018 - 12:36 PM
Hi,
Due to strange clutch noises when I last had my Mini on the road, I'm currently changing my clutch whilst its out of the car. The Haynes manual says to check for end float on the primary gear, but doesn't really give much detail.
There is some float, but is this acceptable?
measure it. the info is in the manual gearbox section of the Haynes. after the gearbox insides rebuild, float should be 0.0035 to 0.0065 in.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 17 November 2018 - 01:06 PM
Hi,
Due to strange clutch noises when I last had my Mini on the road, I'm currently changing my clutch whilst its out of the car. The Haynes manual says to check for end float on the primary gear, but doesn't really give much detail.
There is some float, but is this acceptable?
measure it. the info is in the manual gearbox section of the Haynes. after the gearbox insides rebuild, float should be 0.0035 to 0.0065 in.
Thanks, I somehow missed that bit in Haynes.
Mine is showing around 0.016 inches, so definitely a bit too much float.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 17 November 2018 - 01:41 PM
You need to fit a new inner thrust ring on the primary gear. Take the old ring, measure the thickness, then you will know how much thicker the new one should be to give 0.003 to 0.007 (that's what I always work to) end float. Mini Spares sell the inner thrust rings. If yo can't get a thrust ring thick enough, there is a little 'tweek' you can do as a last resort.
The diff output looks very odd. Is the actual output shaft moving that amount or is it just the pot joint which slides onto the shaft? If it is just the pot sliding along the shaft there is probably no problem. It is hard to see from the video and you need to be sure. End play on the pot joint alone is not really a problem.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 17 November 2018 - 01:48 PM
You need to fit a new inner thrust ring on the primary gear. Take the old ring, measure the thickness, then you will know how much thicker the new one should be to give 0.003 to 0.007 (that's what I always work to) end float. Mini Spares sell the inner thrust rings. If yo can't get a thrust ring thick enough, there is a little 'tweek' you can do as a last resort.
The diff output looks very odd. Is the actual output shaft moving that amount or is it just the pot joint which slides onto the shaft? If it is just the pot sliding along the shaft there is probably no problem. It is hard to see from the video and you need to be sure. End play on the pot joint alone is not really a problem.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 17 November 2018 - 01:52 PM
You need to fit a new inner thrust ring on the primary gear. Take the old ring, measure the thickness, then you will know how much thicker the new one should be to give 0.003 to 0.007 (that's what I always work to) end float. Mini Spares sell the inner thrust rings. If yo can't get a thrust ring thick enough, there is a little 'tweek' you can do as a last resort.
The diff output looks very odd. Is the actual output shaft moving that amount or is it just the pot joint which slides onto the shaft? If it is just the pot sliding along the shaft there is probably no problem. It is hard to see from the video and you need to be sure. End play on the pot joint alone is not really a problem.
Hi Cooperman, thanks for the advice. I turned around the C washer, and its brought the float down to around 0.009 (obviously still too much.
Does the gear just slide off the crankshaft with the C Washer and ring removed? I'm pulling on it but it doesn't want to come out.
With the diff, would it be best if I will remove the Pot Joints and see what the play is on the splines?
I appreciate everyone's help on here. Sometimes Haynes is like a foreign language to me!
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 17 November 2018 - 01:56 PM
The C-washer takes very little end load and no rotational wear takes place. If the end float is still 3 to 4 thou too much, take a centre punch with a sharp tip and make a series of 'hits' around the inner side. This throws up small 'lumps' which will take up the extra end float. If it is slightly too tight when re-fitting, linish the lumps down until it is just right.
Yes, I know it is 'witchcraft', but it works. Only as a last resort of course.
The other tweek is to lay a line of mig-weld around the inner face and linish/surface-grind that back until the float is correct.
I know this is not good engineering practice, but 'in extremis' it can get you out of trouble.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 17 November 2018 - 05:42 PM
The C-washer takes very little end load and no rotational wear takes place. If the end float is still 3 to 4 thou too much, take a centre punch with a sharp tip and make a series of 'hits' around the inner side. This throws up small 'lumps' which will take up the extra end float. If it is slightly too tight when re-fitting, linish the lumps down until it is just right.
Yes, I know it is 'witchcraft', but it works. Only as a last resort of course.
The other tweek is to lay a line of mig-weld around the inner face and linish/surface-grind that back until the float is correct.
I know this is not good engineering practice, but 'in extremis' it can get you out of trouble.
GOOD MANICURE PRACTICE
I once cut a "washer" from the top a Nescafe tin and put it between the Primary gear and the C washer.
In those days the Nescafe steel was thinner than a Heinz bake-bean can.
Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011
Posted 17 November 2018 - 06:31 PM
The C-washer takes very little end load and no rotational wear takes place. If the end float is still 3 to 4 thou too much, take a centre punch with a sharp tip and make a series of 'hits' around the inner side. This throws up small 'lumps' which will take up the extra end float. If it is slightly too tight when re-fitting, linish the lumps down until it is just right.
Yes, I know it is 'witchcraft', but it works. Only as a last resort of course.
The other tweek is to lay a line of mig-weld around the inner face and linish/surface-grind that back until the float is correct.
I know this is not good engineering practice, but 'in extremis' it can get you out of trouble.
GOOD MANICURE PRACTICE
I once cut a "washer" from the top a Nescafe tin and put it between the Primary gear and the C washer.
In those days the Nescafe steel was thinner than a Heinz bake-bean can.
Another good tip there.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 18 November 2018 - 05:06 AM
I also thought I would check for play in the diff, and this is what I found:
The movement of the right hand pot joint is concerning me, is that a worn differential?
The Diff will need an overhaul. It does appear that the Thrust Washer on the RH Output Shaft has disappeared - that's not uncommon, but also not good !
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 24 November 2018 - 01:15 PM
The play is definitely the diff and not the pot joints.
I took the pots joints off and you can clearly see the movement.
Do I just need a simple Diff rebuilt kit? I know Guessworks sells them. Is it a fairly simple job with the engine out of the car?
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 24 November 2018 - 05:18 PM
Do I just need a simple Diff rebuilt kit? I know Guessworks sells them. Is it a fairly simple job with the engine out of the car?
It is an Engine Out Job, but not difficult.
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