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Drum Brake Circuit


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#16 gaspen

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 11:36 AM

Thanks for your advice Moke

 

The GMC227 is brand new, so I don't think there is an issue with it.

 

When I bled the system the fluid spurtsed out as I remember.

 

I'll check the clearence at the body after I reinstalled the pedals.

 

(I removed both pedal because the clutch linkages have some wear and it's hard to change gears )



#17 Ethel

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 12:12 PM

The OP's original suggestion is the best. The stepped (yellow band) master gives proportionally more braking effort to the front so you won't want smaller rear cylinders to do that even more. The inertia valve senses the weight transfer that makes the rear light and causes the the wheels locking up better than can be preempted tinkering with hydraulic pressure.



#18 gaspen

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 09:02 AM

It looks like this without the pedal. I need a shim I think.

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#19 Spider

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 05:38 PM

Yes, it looks that way to me !

 

But, to ask the question here, there is a 'tray' that also doubles as part of the engine steady bracket that fits under the Master and a Gasket that also goes between this Tray and the Master. Have you fitted those? They will lift the Cylinder by about 2.5 - 3 mm.



#20 gaspen

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 07:25 PM

Yes, it looks that way to me !

 

But, to ask the question here, there is a 'tray' that also doubles as part of the engine steady bracket that fits under the Master and a Gasket that also goes between this Tray and the Master. Have you fitted those? They will lift the Cylinder by about 2.5 - 3 mm.

 

I took a piece of 2.5 mm aluminium sheet and I cut a shim to the shape of the MC rim. Its shape is similar to this gasket :

 

http://minispares.co...ck to catalogue

 

I also removed the stop light switch to ensure that released brake pedal isn't stopped by it.

 

Now it's looks good. Unortunately I can not drive the car yet but I hope it will be fine on road also :)

 

Thanks for your advice !

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