Battery Cable, Fuel & Brake Lines Inside.
#1
Posted 04 December 2018 - 08:33 PM
I may decide to do a bit rallying when the car is back on the road so I am contemplating putting the lines inside rather than putting them back under the floor.
I am thinking about putting clipping these into the grooves in the floor. I am wondering which is the best place to get the cable & pipes into the engine bay.
Advice/ suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.
#2
Posted 04 December 2018 - 08:41 PM
just make the brakes up as normal.
fuel pipe inside hard to be hard line or braided all fittings screw.
but the first thing is get a copy of the blue book and read all the relavant regs.
#3
Posted 04 December 2018 - 09:04 PM
I’m hoping someone has a photo or two.
Edited by DUF2, 04 December 2018 - 09:05 PM.
#4
Posted 04 December 2018 - 10:07 PM
For the brakes I have the servo and t-piece in the car so actually come through the bulkhead twice, from the master and then back to the front brakes.
#5
Posted 04 December 2018 - 10:37 PM
Was intending to run the pipes through in copper with no joints. I have the blur book, I was wondering whereabouts on the bulkhead to take the pipes through.
I’m hoping someone has a photo or two.
depends on what you want and where you have your parts. the pedal box opening on the passenger side is useful.
#6
Posted 05 December 2018 - 12:22 PM
I am replacing the floor on my Elf and have removed all cables & lines fitted on the underside.
I may decide to do a bit rallying when the car is back on the road so I am contemplating putting the lines inside rather than putting them back under the floor.
I am thinking about putting clipping these into the grooves in the floor. I am wondering which is the best place to get the cable & pipes into the engine bay.
Advice/ suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.
Personally I wouldn't attach the pipes and battery cable to the floor itself as the floor is rather prone to getting knocked on rallies if rough and that could possibly damage the internal lines. Plus on the floor they are more prone to a clumsy foot stomping on them. I run my lines on the exhaust tunnel with the brake and battery on the drivers side and the fuel on the nav's side...there are probably photo's within my build thread somewhere...search "Historic rally mini clubman".
I ran them down the exhaust tunnel (either side rather than on top) rather than the inner sill because I felt they where vulnerable on the sill from a side impact which can happen on a rally because tree's jump out of nowhere!!!!
Fuel and brake pass through the heel board (either side) under the rear seat and go above the rear subframe - my thinking being it makes removing the rear subby easier.
The fuel goes up the front toe board and through the bulkhead as GrahamC and Nicklouse have suggested - through the holes where the LHD master cylinders would sit....very easy to place a rubber grommet there and then pick up the carbs.
The brakes go the other side and pass through the bulkhead using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as it keeps things closer to the firewall on the engine side.
Battery terminates high on the O/S bulkhead using a Longacre Battery through panel fitting like this.....
https://www.ebay.co....y-/310919997886
....then runs as per factory(ish) down the inner wing.
#7
Posted 05 December 2018 - 06:46 PM
Just had a look at your build. I like the 90 degree bulkhead fitting, can you recall where you got it from?
Personally I wouldn't attach the pipes and battery cable to the floor itself as the floor is rather prone to getting knocked on rallies if rough and that could possibly damage the internal lines. Plus on the floor they are more prone to a clumsy foot stomping on them. I run my lines on the exhaust tunnel with the brake and battery on the drivers side and the fuel on the nav's side...there are probably photo's within my build thread somewhere...search "Historic rally mini clubman".
I ran them down the exhaust tunnel (either side rather than on top) rather than the inner sill because I felt they where vulnerable on the sill from a side impact which can happen on a rally because tree's jump out of nowhere!!!!
Fuel and brake pass through the heel board (either side) under the rear seat and go above the rear subframe - my thinking being it makes removing the rear subby easier.
The fuel goes up the front toe board and through the bulkhead as GrahamC and Nicklouse have suggested - through the holes where the LHD master cylinders would sit....very easy to place a rubber grommet there and then pick up the carbs.
The brakes go the other side and pass through the bulkhead using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as it keeps things closer to the firewall on the engine side.
I have had a quick look on the internet but can’t see one.
I will take the fuel pipe through the heater plate on the near side.
#8
Posted 05 December 2018 - 07:04 PM
i am not so keen on the pipes on the center tunnel as mine gets hot. i run the fuel down the side of the car INSIDE the cage though so it cant get trapped between cage and shell.
#9
Posted 06 December 2018 - 11:13 AM
Just had a look at your build. I like the 90 degree bulkhead fitting, can you recall where you got it from?
Personally I wouldn't attach the pipes and battery cable to the floor itself as the floor is rather prone to getting knocked on rallies if rough and that could possibly damage the internal lines. Plus on the floor they are more prone to a clumsy foot stomping on them. I run my lines on the exhaust tunnel with the brake and battery on the drivers side and the fuel on the nav's side...there are probably photo's within my build thread somewhere...search "Historic rally mini clubman".
I ran them down the exhaust tunnel (either side rather than on top) rather than the inner sill because I felt they where vulnerable on the sill from a side impact which can happen on a rally because tree's jump out of nowhere!!!!
Fuel and brake pass through the heel board (either side) under the rear seat and go above the rear subframe - my thinking being it makes removing the rear subby easier.
The fuel goes up the front toe board and through the bulkhead as GrahamC and Nicklouse have suggested - through the holes where the LHD master cylinders would sit....very easy to place a rubber grommet there and then pick up the carbs.
The brakes go the other side and pass through the bulkhead using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as it keeps things closer to the firewall on the engine side.
I have had a quick look on the internet but can’t see one.
I will take the fuel pipe through the heater plate on the near side.
They were a random ebay find. Search 90 degree bulkhead fitting and someone might have them in stock. Failing that you'll have to get inventive with the standard straight version.
#10
Posted 06 December 2018 - 11:16 AM
i am not so keen on the pipes on the center tunnel as mine gets hot. i run the fuel down the side of the car INSIDE the cage though so it cant get trapped between cage and shell.
Yeah, I understand your reasoning....and yes my tunnel gets hot also...I think even standard mini's get hot there....but I've never had issue with fuel evaporation or the rear brakes overheating (they don't do much anyway) so have never seen the need to change tack. Plus, I saw a photo of a very nasty crash on rally GB this year (red 205) that hit a tree side on and snapped the cage that unfortunately hurt the driver (cage into knee...ouch!) and that to me is reason enough to keep the fuel lines inboard by a decent distance.
#11
Posted 06 December 2018 - 05:42 PM
Also I put the battery master switch between the seats on an aluminium bracket with a cable to the front scuttle for the external pull knob.
My thoughts aŕe that a side impact could be catastrophic.
#12
Posted 06 December 2018 - 06:37 PM
I do virtually the same as you do Dave.
Also I put the battery master switch between the seats on an aluminium bracket with a cable to the front scuttle for the external pull knob.
My thoughts aŕe that a side impact could be catastrophic.
There is a reason we have a similar setup Pete... I listened to your advice ?... And good advice it was (as always).
Must admit... Battery cutoff is on the to do list too.... Along with a full rebuild, paint, new engine, etc etc etc.... Ha ha.
#13
Posted 07 December 2018 - 03:54 PM
I do virtually the same as you do Dave.
Also I put the battery master switch between the seats on an aluminium bracket with a cable to the front scuttle for the external pull knob.
My thoughts aŕe that a side impact could be catastrophic.
There is a reason we have a similar setup Pete... I listened to your advice ... And good advice it was (as always).
Must admit... Battery cutoff is on the to do list too.... Along with a full rebuild, paint, new engine, etc etc etc.... Ha ha.
Your little lad will soon be old enough to be able to help. I remember both my son and later my grandson beginning to work on cars with me.
#14
Posted 30 December 2018 - 06:06 PM
Good reading here, chaps. I fully intend to run my pipes inside. Not that I intend any form of motorsport (at the moment) but it just seems a better place in terms of maintenance and accessibility. Do any of you have photos, please, as a picture paints a thousand words.
#15
Posted 30 December 2018 - 07:41 PM
Read through some build threads if you want to see what some do.
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