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Battery Cable, Fuel & Brake Lines Inside.


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#16 DUF2

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Posted 31 December 2018 - 11:39 AM

Good reading here, chaps. I fully intend to run my pipes inside. Not that I intend any form of motorsport (at the moment) but it just seems a better place in terms of maintenance and accessibility. Do any of you have photos, please, as a picture paints a thousand words.


I also intend to run the lines inside, clipping them into the grooves in the floor pan. From this post I now know where to take the fuel pipe into the engine bay, via the heater hose panel.
I have sourced a 90 degeee bulkhead fitting for the brake pipe, I have also bought a Longacre bulkhead fitting for the battery cable. I have an isolating switch on the battery negative terminal and a master switch on the bulkhead accesssible from the glove box, these are just small anti theft deterrents. I have yet to decide how to get through the seat cross member, I think the gap between the groove and the x member may be too small.
The car is still away having a new floor fitted.
I know it would be easier to run the lines in the clips under the floor, but I would prefer them inside, just in case the car does get used competitively in the future.

#17 Cooperman

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Posted 31 December 2018 - 09:22 PM

If you think the car will be used for competition at some future date then you would be advised to fit an FIA-approved battery master switch whilst installing the battery line.
I fit mine in between the front seats an an aluminium bracket.

#18 warning634

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 11:35 AM

Hi there

 

If you take a look at my build thread (page 5 onwards) you can see the route of my fuel and brake lines.

 

With regards to fuel lines. please ensure you use braided lines inside the cabin, less chance of any problems etc should you have a bad crash, last thing you need is fuel leaking inside the cabin.

 

Thanks



#19 Cooperman

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 05:34 PM

On my S the petrol pipe is a vontinuous run of steel pipefrom the join near the tank under the rear seat base right through the car to a point near the carbs where a pressure regulator is fitted.
The pipe is clipped to the floor with P clips at regular intervals.

#20 DUF2

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 11:33 AM

Hi there
 
If you take a look at my build thread (page 5 onwards) you can see the route of my fuel and brake lines.
 
With regards to fuel lines. please ensure you use braided lines inside the cabin, less chance of any problems etc should you have a bad crash, last thing you need is fuel leaking inside the cabin.
 
Thanks

Where is your build thread? I find it interesting to see how other folks have prepared their cars.
Fuel line will be copper with no joints inside the cabin.

#21 rally1380

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 11:42 AM

 

Hi there
 
If you take a look at my build thread (page 5 onwards) you can see the route of my fuel and brake lines.
 
With regards to fuel lines. please ensure you use braided lines inside the cabin, less chance of any problems etc should you have a bad crash, last thing you need is fuel leaking inside the cabin.
 
Thanks

Where is your build thread? I find it interesting to see how other folks have prepared their cars.
Fuel line will be copper with no joints inside the cabin.

 

 Copper or Cupronickel hardline for fuel is perfectly fine through the cabin as long as (as you have said) it doesn't have joints.  Not sure why folk insist on braided as I don't really see any benefits other than making your wallet lighter.

 

Also, here is the link to Warning634's build.....really nice build to be fair so well worth the read.

 

http://www.theminifo...rmac-rally-car/


Edited by rally1380, 09 January 2019 - 11:44 AM.


#22 1968andyf

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 06:02 PM

I used 8mm copper oil line used for oil fired boilers it has a white plastic over coating for a little extra protection with rubber lined p clips

#23 DUF2

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Posted 15 March 2019 - 05:48 PM

I have routed the 8mm copper fuel pipe up through the heater pipe flange on the passenger side and put a 180 degree bend to take the pipe down to the mechanical fuel pump. A friend of mine has suggested the pipe may air lock at the high point.
Will the mechanical pump be able to suck the fuel over the bend?
Or should I re route the pipe through the bulkhead lower down so it is raining towards the pump.?

#24 DUF2

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 04:22 PM

Here is a pic of how I have installed the pipe. But with the mechical pump sucking the fuel, I’m nervous the loop might trap air. This wouldn’t be a problem if the car had an electric pump pushing the fuel over there and straight into the carb float bowl.

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#25 rally1380

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Posted Yesterday, 03:01 PM

Here is a pic of how I have installed the pipe. But with the mechical pump sucking the fuel, I’m nervous the loop might trap air. This wouldn’t be a problem if the car had an electric pump pushing the fuel over there and straight into the carb float bowl.

 

I hate those mechanical pumps....not because they're rubbish (they are probably more reliable than electric ones) but because when I was a young'un messing with mini's, on my way to work one day the pipe dropped off the pump cutting the engine dead. After a few minutes under the bonnet I spotted the issue and in the process of placing the pipe back onto the pump I touched the rather hot manifold with the back of my hand.....lots of swearing and a big blister appeared!!!!

 

Anyway....in answer to your question - you could well be right that an airlock "could" happen at this bend.  I read earlier in the thread something about you wanting to do some rallying???  So i'm assuming a carb upgrade (to twins) is on the cards?  If so, fit an electric pump now to get one step ahead of the game.

 

an easy way to bleed that bend of pipe would be to pressurize the fuel tank a little bit to force the petrol up and over the U and into the pump. how long this would remain like that i'm not sure but it would certainly draw fuel through.

 

Have you run the engine like that?  Is there an issue or rather have you experienced an airlock?






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