15 replies to this topic

[Trissy B]

OK it seems need to be enlightened about bump stops. It turns out that my mini has never had them and I had never realised they were missing!

 

So I've got a pair from minispares and assume I need either the tiniest hands ever or need to remove the cones first.

 

The question is, what should the area look like? I have SOMETHING there. Not sure if someone has welded a plate on or that plate is supposed to be there or that IS the bump stop minus the rubber.

 

Any help appreciated thanks.

 

[/url]IMG_20181210_195436252 by Trissy B, on Flickr">http://<a href='http...c.kr/p/Rmm2Fm'>IMG_20181210_195436252 by Trissy B, on Flickr

 

[/url]IMG_20181210_195524722 by Trissy B, on Flickr">http://<a href='http....kr/p/2dpHwe9'>IMG_20181210_195524722 by Trissy B, on Flickr

[Shooter63]

I had the same problem which is common,as I haven't got triple jointed fingers I bought the front hydrolastic ones which bolt on using the front damper lower mounting bolts, although you still might need a blast of heat on the bolts to get them out of the suspension arms

Shooter

[GraemeC]

That plate is the remains of an old bump stop. It has a male thread going through the subframe with a small nut on the other side (7/16” AF I think)

[KTS]

the difficulty getting the remains of the bump stop out tends to be that if you can get the nut loosened, the plate will start spinning.

 

alternative option would be remove the shock and use an angle grinder to cut away the weld that holds the bolt to the plate - just need to be a bit careful not to go all the way through and cut into the subframe itself.  

[weef]

Hi  if you have a pair of new bump stops you can see how they fit.  The space is very limited and the cone has to be removed for access.  Grinding off the old part of the bumpstop does not help with the fitting of the new unit.

[Spider]

Some can fit them without taking the cones out, but every time I've done it, I've taken the cones out.

 

Another way to skin the cat is to return the bump stops you have, grind what's left of yours away and fit Hydro Bump Stops. These fit to the arm, so are much easier to change. You'll need to drill the hole in the bracket for them though out to 10 mm.

 

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

[andyapanel]

One of mine fell off a couple of weeks ago-just before MOT of course.

I was dreading it, having read threads on it.

Actually, its not that difficult.

First, loads of Plusgas and let it soak.

Then I used my shortest spanner (4") that fitted the nut (7/16th, I think)

I wedged it in place with a chunky chisel

The boring bit next: grip the remains of the bump stop with Mole Wrench and turn. There is little clearance, so yo only get a few degrees of swing before having to release and reposition. I also used a Stilsons when I became bored with the Mole.

Eventually, there is enough give to undo the remains by hand.

It took me about 40 minutes.

You will find a thick spacer comes off with the remains-don't throw it away.

The new one went on really easily-just screw it into the nut.

Good luck

[Icey]

Wobble-head spanners. I've done a few and never needed to take the cones out.

[nicklouse]

One of mine fell off a couple of weeks ago-just before MOT of course.

I was dreading it, having read threads on it.

Actually, its not that difficult.

First, loads of Plusgas and let it soak.

Then I used my shortest spanner (4") that fitted the nut (7/16th, I think)

I wedged it in place with a chunky chisel

The boring bit next: grip the remains of the bump stop with Mole Wrench and turn. There is little clearance, so yo only get a few degrees of swing before having to release and reposition. I also used a Stilsons when I became bored with the Mole.

Eventually, there is enough give to undo the remains by hand.

It took me about 40 minutes.

You will find a thick spacer comes off with the remains-don't throw it away.

The new one went on really easily-just screw it into the nut.

Good luck

that thick spacer was added as standard by the factory to the 1976 on cars. so if you are going to bin one side do the other side.

[DeadSquare]

Lubricate the new one, and its nut, with Copperslip;  you might have to do it again one day.

[Trissy B]

Hi everyone thank you for all the great advice! I found my cone compressor in the depths of the garage so I think I'll start by getting the cones off (doesn't seem too much of a big deal).

Then see if I can undo the nut on the inside.

If that doesn't work I'll get the grinder out on the front. Cones will already be off to install the new ones.

Exactly the same on both sides anyway so I will be changing both at the same time.

[Trissy B]

I had already tried grabbing the plate that's left with some mole grips but I couldn't get it to budge.

[nicklouse]

just cut the remains off. refitting is easier.

[alex-95]

I would definitely cut the remains off as above, they are pretty easy to fit new ones. I managed to undo (was new and hadn't been on for long but still tight  ) mine and refit with everything bar the wheel in place.

[Trissy B]

Alright I'll grind it of then. Sounds easier!