10 replies to this topic

[ashley 2008]

This is just a question do I buy a genuine rear subframe or after market if aftermarket what make

[mab01uk]

Recently discussed on the Mk1 Forum (you may have to register to view the Technical section of forum).....it seems both types are not perfect:-

Non genuine vs heritage rear subframes

http://mk1-forum.net...&hilit=subframe

 

Quote below from John Yea of BMH to Miniworld magazine back in 2010:-

"A lot of genuine parts are no longer available and people should be ashamed at some of the stuff thats out there. For example, the genuine Rover Mini subframes had a minimum number of spotwelds deemed to be safe, researched in much detail. Cheap aftermarket copies have fewer spotwelds and people need protecting from this."

Edited by mab01uk, 14 December 2018 - 08:30 AM.

[Cooperman]

There are two considerations.

 

1. The accuracy of the dimensions. These days even restored cars may not be as accurate and even a Heritage sub-frame can be a bit different from the heel-board mounting hole positions. It is often necessary to 'fiddle about' to get the bolts to start.

 

2.  The physical strength. There is an issue with the number of welds, but it is not difficult to add some extra welds to a pattern sub-frame. I have used a pattern one on a rally car, but it had a lot of additional seam welding.

 

In the end you pay your money and take your choice. I have not heard of anyone having a serious structural failure with a pattern one.

[Kombi]

I bought a reproduction and it fit just fine. However, I wasn't impressed with the welding so I took it to a friend of mine who welds for a living and he added some more.

 

We didn't employ a lot of science to where they were added, mostly just to the areas that looked rather flimsy or where existing welds looked inadequate. We had concerns (probably unfounded) about warping so I don't think there were any single welds that exceeded 1" (3mm).

 

My car is strictly a road car.

[bpirie1000]

As always depends what its used for and how much cash you have to spend...

Wax it regularly and it should last..

[Stevie W]

I put a genuine rear subframe in my Mini and the fit was ok but not brilliant. As said, both genuine & non-genuine ones will need fettling to fit properly.

Mine seemed too wide at the front so fitting the trunnions was a right pain, but a lot of jiggling got it in after a few hours of persuasion!!
I also had a few issues getting the rear trunnions bolts holes to line up with the floor, but again after a few choice words and fiddling about they went in too.......all this on a heritage shell!!

Cheers, Steve.

[DeadSquare]

I put a genuine rear subframe in my Mini and the fit was ok but not brilliant. As said, both genuine & non-genuine ones will need fettling to fit properly.

Mine seemed too wide at the front so fitting the trunnions was a right pain, but a lot of jiggling got it in after a few hours of persuasion!!
I also had a few issues getting the rear trunnions bolts holes to line up with the floor, but again after a few choice words and fiddling about they went in too.......all this on a heritage shell!!

Cheers, Steve.

 

Next time things aren't panning out, to encourage things, try blessing it rather than cursing it.

[Stevie W]

Ha ha, yes, that might work!

[surfblue]

 

I put a genuine rear subframe in my Mini and the fit was ok but not brilliant. As said, both genuine & non-genuine ones will need fettling to fit properly.

Mine seemed too wide at the front so fitting the trunnions was a right pain, but a lot of jiggling got it in after a few hours of persuasion!!
I also had a few issues getting the rear trunnions bolts holes to line up with the floor, but again after a few choice words and fiddling about they went in too.......all this on a heritage shell!!

Cheers, Steve.

 

Next time things aren't panning out, to encourage things, try blessing it rather than cursing it.

 

Or hit it with a FBH? 

[ashley 2008]

Thanks for the imformation everyone i will have a look at my options

[Cooperman]

After fitting a new rear sub-frame, either Heritage or non-genuine, it is essential to measure and adjust as necessary the rear suspension settings.

For best road-holding and good handling the optimum settings are:

 

Track:  Toe-in 1/16" to 1/8"

Camber:  Zero to 0.5 degrees negative.

 

It is also necessary to check front to rear alignment of the suspension arms to prevent 'crabbing'.

 

Adverse tolerance build-up can cause some funny initial measurements. When you get to that stage come back on here and we will give advice to to measure and set.