Rebuilding Clutch Slave And Master Cylinders
Posted 07 January 2019 - 11:39 AM
Just looking at prices and is it worth while just rebuilding the existing ones or forking out the money for new ones.
I’ve never replaced the seals in either, are they pretty straight forward?
Just trying to get more info before I spend more money than I have to.
Posted 07 January 2019 - 11:56 AM
I would replace the seals in the MC and just replace the whole slave.
but first you should strip and inspect both as there is no point in replacing the seals is the bores are worn out.
Posted 07 January 2019 - 03:18 PM
I personally feel that as changing a master cylinder is a fiddly job to do as you are upside down under the peddles to get the clevis pin in and out, I would fit a brand new one. I use to rebuild them in the past (and have done many over the years) but the master cylinders are getting old now if original at least 18 years old depending on your mini. The last one I rebuilt the rear circuit failed after 18 months (whether it is the quality of the rebuild kits) luckily it was a twin circuit system and the front part of the circuit was fine and stopped the car.
Posted 07 January 2019 - 05:40 PM
From my own experience, once they start leaking, they are finished, unless you wanted to sleeve them, but with the prices of new ones quite attractive, you wouldn't bother unless you wanted to go to a stainless sleeve.
Posted 07 January 2019 - 08:11 PM
As with Moke spider, when you inspect the master cylinder bores in detail you will find they are pitted with corrosion where the seal lands so its only a matter of time before the new seals get shredded and you're fitting a new cylinder anyway.
Change the brake fluid once a year and you should be OK for years.
Posted 07 January 2019 - 09:29 PM
Posted 08 January 2019 - 09:25 AM
I decided it was worth giving it a go for the clutch master and slave on my car. Mine were both still quality factory parts (pre verto) and in really good condition internally.
The slave is really easy, just one internal seal and then the dust boot. Make sure the seal spreader is present on a pre verto (the black plastic part connected to the spring). I also got a new pushrod as my old one was a bit crusty and any wear in the eye will bring slop to the system. New clevis pins (x3) at all ends of the system is a great idea too.
The master is a bit more work, but still pretty easy. Most of the work is cleaning it all up and making sure there is no debris in the system. You need to be pretty firm to stretch the seals over, but obviously you don't want to tear them
Edited by timmy850, 08 January 2019 - 09:29 AM.
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