47 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

 

ahhh the joys of Minisport.

 

take pictures of the new one before you fit it.

 

Will do.

 

Im finding they are all as bad as each other 

 

the best is Minispares. would not touch the rest unless i really really had to.

[M700FGT]

 

 

ahhh the joys of Minisport.

 

take pictures of the new one before you fit it.

 

Will do.

 

Im finding they are all as bad as each other 

 

the best is Minispares. would not touch the rest unless i really really had to.

 

Even Mini Spares themselves say the Timken on is the best. Their own branded one is just their cheaper alternative.... 

[M700FGT]

So my parcel arrives from Mini Sport today.....

 

Are BRT and Timken the same company?

 

BRT claim Timken are a customer on their website? 

 

Im confused if I've been sent an alternative / fake or the correct product. 

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[nicklouse]

whats inside? when ever i bought Timken they cam in their own branded boxes.

[M700FGT]

I can't open the packet just encase, but it is the roller type just like Timken.

 

I also thought the same about the packaging when every box online has Timken packaging 

 

 

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[cal844]

Some companies use timken bearings but in new packaging, check if the brand is printed on the bearing

Edited by cal844, 21 January 2019 - 10:51 PM.

[M700FGT]

Some companies use timken bearings but in new packaging, check if the brand is printed on the bearing

Just managed to make out the name "Timken" through the packaging, so looks like its all good - despite despise the BRT box. Thanks for pointing that out 

[Spider]

I really seriously doubt Mini Sport would be purchasing enough bearings to qualify for a Timken Account. If they are supplying Timken, then at best, they'd be buying from a Bearing distributor, who would also be selling other brands.

 

As the other guys have said, it's not unusual to have Timken Bearings supplied in a non-Timken Box as Timken don't make seals, the wipers or the split pins.

 

Two things will let you know you have (most likely) Timken Bearings when buying them in a non-Timken Box;-

 

1) the 'Matched Bearing Assembly' Notice and

 

 

 

2) the plastic bag that the bearing are actually in (might be a bag in a bag)

 

[Rorf]

The Timken bearings are available as separate bearings from bearing distributors but the critical part for the mini application (which is unique) is the middle spacer which has to be machined to exact tolerances with the then matched bearings and this is why they cost so much as the market off take is not that large.

 

Critical to everything though is the condition of the built in retainer on the front and rear hubs.   

[Dusky]

Would send those back. Not the first time mini sport supplied fake bearings. Your local parts shop will be able to get the bearings just as easily and faster .

[DeadSquare]

I have often wondered why there is a spacer between the two roller bearings in a Mini hub.  is it a "left over" because one is needed when ball-races are used ?

 

On prewar front stub axles there was a substantial inner roller-race and a smaller outer one.  The nut holding it all together was tightened until there was no play, and then backed off sufficiently to insert a split pin.   No spacer between the bearings !

[Spider]

I have often wondered why there is a spacer between the two roller bearings in a Mini hub.  is it a "left over" because one is needed when ball-races are used ?

 

On prewar front stub axles there was a substantial inner roller-race and a smaller outer one.  The nut holding it all together was tightened until there was no play, and then backed off sufficiently to insert a split pin.   No spacer between the bearings !

 

One way to put this is these wheel bearings work back to front to 'conventional' wheel bearings.

 

On a 'conventional' set it, the axle is 'dead' and the hub spins around it, so the pre-load (or play) can easily be set with the nut.

 

On all FWD Hubs, this is reversed. The Axle is 'live' and the Hub is 'dead'. Additionally, the Live Axle also has to lock to it the Drive Flange and hold it in tight alignment, so the nut here, must be done tight. If there was no spacer, the bearing would simply be overloaded and locked.

[GraemeC]

I’ve had many bearings from BHK in Premier packaging - never had a problem or any suspicion of them being ‘fake’.

Whilst I’m far from the biggest fan of MiniSport, I think they do come in for some flak they don’t always deserve. I think some posters should be a little more careful with supplier bashing - it can be borderline liabellous.

[DeadSquare]

 

I have often wondered why there is a spacer between the two roller bearings in a Mini hub.  is it a "left over" because one is needed when ball-races are used ?

 

On prewar front stub axles there was a substantial inner roller-race and a smaller outer one.  The nut holding it all together was tightened until there was no play, and then backed off sufficiently to insert a split pin.   No spacer between the bearings !

 

One way to put this is these wheel bearings work back to front to 'conventional' wheel bearings.

 

On a 'conventional' set it, the axle is 'dead' and the hub spins around it, so the pre-load (or play) can easily be set with the nut.

 

On all FWD Hubs, this is reversed. The Axle is 'live' and the Hub is 'dead'. Additionally, the Live Axle also has to lock to it the Drive Flange and hold it in tight alignment, so the nut here, must be done tight. If there was no spacer, the bearing would simply be overloaded and locked.

 

Thank you.  One less thing to ponder about in the bath.

[nicklouse]

 

 

I have often wondered why there is a spacer between the two roller bearings in a Mini hub.  is it a "left over" because one is needed when ball-races are used ?

 

On prewar front stub axles there was a substantial inner roller-race and a smaller outer one.  The nut holding it all together was tightened until there was no play, and then backed off sufficiently to insert a split pin.   No spacer between the bearings !

 

One way to put this is these wheel bearings work back to front to 'conventional' wheel bearings.

 

On a 'conventional' set it, the axle is 'dead' and the hub spins around it, so the pre-load (or play) can easily be set with the nut.

 

On all FWD Hubs, this is reversed. The Axle is 'live' and the Hub is 'dead'. Additionally, the Live Axle also has to lock to it the Drive Flange and hold it in tight alignment, so the nut here, must be done tight. If there was no spacer, the bearing would simply be overloaded and locked.

 

Thank you.  One less thing to ponder about in the bath.

 

ahhh but the rear?