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Radiator Flush Drama


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#16 Magneto

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 02:04 AM

Just remove it and plug the opening, that's all that's needed.....



#17 Spider

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 06:07 AM

There's 2 ports on the Inlet Manifold that need to be plugged up, one's large (about 5/8" from memory) and the other is quite small - about 3/16" - perfect for a Vacuum Gauge or Cruise Control ;D

 

The other thing is you need to plug up the 4 ports in the head. I usually screw 7/16" Grub Screws in as they look like they belong. Seat Belt Bolts have the same thread and yes, I have seen them plugged with these O_O

 

I'd also suggest swapping out the Needle in the Carb for a stock 998 type and getting a hold of a distributor for a 998 that has a Vacuum Advance.



#18 psyb0rg

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 08:03 AM

There's 2 ports on the Inlet Manifold that need to be plugged up, one's large (about 5/8" from memory) and the other is quite small - about 3/16" - perfect for a Vacuum Gauge or Cruise Control ;D

 

The other thing is you need to plug up the 4 ports in the head. I usually screw 7/16" Grub Screws in as they look like they belong. Seat Belt Bolts have the same thread and yes, I have seen them plugged with these O_O

 

I'd also suggest swapping out the Needle in the Carb for a stock 998 type and getting a hold of a distributor for a 998 that has a Vacuum Advance.

 

Yes, there are two ports on the manifold.

 

The 4 ports on the head are in the front, per cylinder? I can see three in this pic. There might be another one which I'll have to check.

n1kgrxs.jpg

 

 

I have another distributor with a vacuum which I guess I can refurbish, BUT, where would it connect to? The carb doesn't have a spot for a vacuum connection...

 

In your opinion, should I disconnect all this stuff before getting the first smog test? I guess I'm trying to figure out what happens if the car doesn't clear the test; Does it all depend on how well it's tuned? Is that the only thing that affects emissions? Or maybe should I leave all this on and then attempt the test? That might be a safer/easier option.



#19 psyb0rg

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 08:07 AM

oh wait, wouldn't the dizzy vacuum advance just connect to the small intake manifold port? 



#20 psyb0rg

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 08:34 AM

I just read on minimania that California smog test requires a visual inspection and they will look for a working air pump...so I'm not going to touch this stuff, especially since the car last passed the smog test with all this. 



#21 Spider

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 09:34 AM

I'd suggest leaving it place and having a test done with no belt on the air pump, then repeat the test with the belt.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I doubt the system would work. It does need periodic maintenance and it also doesn't last.

 

Mini Mania probably suggest that on their website as they have the parts to sell ;D



#22 Spider

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 09:35 AM

 

We got lumbered with the same emissions set up here from 1976. It can legally be removed as with modern fuels, it does nothing.

 

Why does the smog pump do nothing with modern fuels?

 

 

There was a few chemicals in fuels that were made in the leaded days that this system 'managed' but these chemicals have been removed from the fuels that are available today.



#23 klivins

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 11:32 AM

What would an air pump do? What are your emissions level? My 1275 with single HIF44 I can get down to 1% of CO, the level here being 3.5% for older cars.

#24 72r1mini

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 12:49 PM

As mentioned above your 2 Ports need to be blocked on the manifold and 4 in the head. As for my 76, it was modified with a 1275 head so I dont have the 4 ports. One of the intake ports is used for the vacuum advance.

#25 MikeRotherham

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 01:19 PM

If it is possible to unfasten the points where the cowl and radiator are held, including the bolts holding the cowl to the radiator. The radiator can be moved enough to get better access to the bottom hose. Not sure how the emission bits you have will hinder you with this.

The radiator can then be lifted out followed by the cowl.

Replacement is the reverse, Put the cowl in first and push it as far back towards the fan then drop the radiator in and fasten the bottom radiator hose. Fix the cowl to the radiator then the all the attachment points.

This is how I do mine but you have a few extra bits to get in the way.

One thing I would urge caution with is protect the fine metal fins from the fan with a small piece of card when you're moving the radiator.


Edited by MikeRotherham, 15 January 2019 - 01:20 PM.


#26 nicklouse

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 02:21 PM

why undo the bottom hose? just pull it off the water pump and lift out.



#27 psyb0rg

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 02:47 PM

That is a good idea. I’ll try that next weekend
I’m guessing the bottom bolt/mount should be accessible with the front grill off?

#28 cal844

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 03:55 PM

That is a good idea. I’ll try that next weekend
I’m guessing the bottom bolt/mount should be accessible with the front grill off?


Just keep the bottom hose on and tight for removal and refitting

#29 nicklouse

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 04:05 PM

That is a good idea. I’ll try that next weekend
I’m guessing the bottom bolt/mount should be accessible with the front grill off?

yep easy to get to. can be a pain refitting.



#30 psyb0rg

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 07:27 PM

Is the shroud connected to the radiator, or does that come off separately? I think the shroud on my car is just one piece. 






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