I had exactly the same quandry. Old corroded 5.5G tank. Would be quite happy with a like-frlike replacement, but difficult to find, and ridiculous price. To use the recommended diagonal strap, It seems you DO have to cut away the old floor bracket (with upward facing captive nut) to weld in a new bracket with a captive nut facing towards the middle. But t doesn't end there. I thik you also have to fita new bracket for the upper / forward end of the new fixing strap, as orientationa and position of existing captive nut not right for diagonal strap.
I'm also a bit concerned that the fuel line will be in the rong place for a new bigger tank. My 9original) fuel line goes directly down through the boot floor, with at most a 45 degree bend from where it is camped on to the fuel outflow pipe. Space is so tight, I'd be worried the fuel line wuld need re-routing / new hole drilling, unless the 7.5 g tank outflow is in exactly the same place as the 5.5g tank. Does anyone know if the fuel outflow from the larger tank is exactly the same distance from the wheel side of the tank (i.e. the horizontal distance from the vertical flat face of the tank where it butts up against the wheel arch.)
Re your Q about testing sender unit. If you have access to a restance (multi)meter, just measure the resitance across the 2 spade terminals as you manually raise / lower the float arm. The rheostat should give a smooth change across the full range. If you still need the info, I'd be happy to measure the resistance of mine, which I know works. It is currently off-tank, as I'm looking to fit a new tank.
I'm just off to browse "Best way to prevent ethanol in fuel rusting your expensive new tank as quickly as the old one"...!