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Small To Large Fuel Tank Swap


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#1 bigcaddy

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 03:37 PM

I have a 75 with the small fuel tank.   Can I replace it with the larger tank?  I'm pretty sure it fits but the straps are different.  Will the straps connect to the same brackets or are they different?    The cost of the larger one is 1/2 of the smaller one.   

I attached a picture of mine.   It has a lot of sludge and a hole in the bottom.

 

Unless someone is able to ship me a used small tank to the states for a decent price.

 

Thanks,

Tom

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  • Attached File  tank.JPG   31.33K   16 downloads


#2 nicklouse

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 04:12 PM

you will need the different mounting bracket I think. and strap.

https://www.minispar...ch/classic/tank bracket.aspx|Back to search



#3 GraemeC

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 05:13 PM

The bigger tank will fit with the strap you have, although its possibly not ideal as there is far more weight on the inboard side of the strap.
To change to the diagonal strap you will need a new lower bracket welding in.



#4 Spider

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 06:12 PM

The Strap for the smaller tank does fit and work with the Bigger Tank - the only car we got here standard with that tank was the last model off our lines and that's how they assembled them.

 

Funny that the bigger tank is 1/2 the price of the smaller one where you are. Here (last time I looked) it was roughly the other way around !



#5 GraemeC

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 06:51 PM

That doesn’t actually look like the correct tank for that ‘shell anyway. It is one of the small tanks that is actually meant to have a diagonal strap - they weren’t used for long before the 7.5g became standard.

#6 DUF2

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 12:34 PM

I have a standard tank in my’65 Elf. A previous owner had fitted (poorly) a diagonal type strap. I wish to go back to the proper strap which I have managed to source via eBay.
My question is, where does the bottom of the strap mount? The floor has been repaired & can’t see any hole, or does it use one of the sub frame bolts?

#7 Rorf

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 06:40 PM

The last South African built minis in the early eighties had the bigger tank with the same strap arrangement as used on the smaller tank. The diagonal strap was never used here. So you should not have a problem.



#8 Spider

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 07:10 PM

There is a hole with a captive nut in the boot floor.



#9 DUF2

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 10:31 PM

There is a hole with a captive nut in the boot floor.


The problem is the floor has been repaired and no hole exists! So I need to know where the hole should be so I can re drill it. Thanks

#10 Spider

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 12:00 AM

 

There is a hole with a captive nut in the boot floor.


The problem is the floor has been repaired and no hole exists! So I need to know where the hole should be so I can re drill it. Thanks

 

 

Not difficult to work out where it needs to go.

 

Fit up the tank. If you look at the photo at the top of this page, you'll see the strap goes over on the 'outboard' side of the tank joint (outboard meaning towards the outside of the car). Put some masking tape down on the boot floor and make a mark that is in line with the outside of the tank and where the joint seem is in the tank. Remove the tank, then hold the end of the strap down on the masking tape, positioned such that the corner of the strap is on those marks, then mark the hole centre.

 

That's the way I've done it when I've needed to, for either tank.



#11 DUF2

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Posted 23 February 2019 - 08:34 PM

That doesn’t actually look like the correct tank for that ‘shell anyway. It is one of the small tanks that is actually meant to have a diagonal strap - they weren’t used for long before the 7.5g became standard.


Graham have a good run tonight, I shall be looking out for you

#12 DUF2

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 12:38 AM

Clutch problems?

#13 DUF2

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 05:29 PM

There is a hole with a captive nut in the boot floor.


The problem is the floor has been repaired and no hole exists! So I need to know where the hole should be so I can re drill it. Thanks
 
Not difficult to work out where it needs to go.
 
Fit up the tank. If you look at the photo at the top of this page, you'll see the strap goes over on the 'outboard' side of the tank joint (outboard meaning towards the outside of the car). Put some masking tape down on the boot floor and make a mark that is in line with the outside of the tank and where the joint seem is in the tank. Remove the tank, then hold the end of the strap down on the masking tape, positioned such that the corner of the strap is on those marks, then mark the hole centre.
 
That's the way I've done it when I've needed to, for either tank.

That’s great thanks, will do that.
Next question, how can I check the tank sender unit? When I got the car, there was only a small amount of fuel in it, so I have never seen the needle off the bottom. I’d like to prove the sender is OK before fitting the tank, so would appreciate any info on how to test this.

#14 xydte

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 08:24 AM

Fits with the 5.5 strap. i did it yesterday. My 5.5 was leaking on the bottom. I fixed it but i don't trust it. i Found one 7.5 for 50 pounds almost new the guy took it out because he put a swiftune aluminum. I will buy sometime the 5.5 again but 389 pounds were too expensive right now to give. 



#15 goat64

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Posted 11 August 2020 - 12:08 PM

I had exactly the same quandry. Old corroded 5.5G tank. Would be quite happy with a like-frlike replacement, but difficult to find, and ridiculous price. To use the recommended diagonal strap, It seems you DO have to cut away the old floor bracket (with upward facing captive nut)  to weld in a new bracket with a captive nut facing towards the middle. But t doesn't end there. I thik you also have to fita new bracket for the upper / forward end of the new fixing strap, as orientationa and position of existing captive nut not right for diagonal strap.

 

I'm also a bit concerned that the fuel line will be in the rong place for a new bigger tank. My 9original) fuel line goes directly down through the boot floor, with at most a 45 degree bend from where it is camped on to the fuel outflow pipe. Space is so tight, I'd be worried the fuel line wuld need re-routing / new hole drilling, unless the 7.5 g tank outflow is in exactly  the same place as the 5.5g tank. Does anyone know if the fuel outflow from the larger tank is exactly the same distance from the wheel side of the tank (i.e. the horizontal distance from the vertical flat face of the tank where it butts up against the wheel arch.)

 

Re your Q about testing sender unit. If you have access to a restance (multi)meter, just measure the resitance across the 2 spade terminals as you manually raise / lower the float arm. The rheostat should give a smooth change across the full range.  If you still need the info, I'd be happy to measure the resistance of mine, which I know works. It is currently off-tank, as I'm looking to fit a new tank.

 

I'm just off to browse "Best way to prevent ethanol in fuel rusting your expensive new tank as quickly as the old one"...!






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