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Rear Wheel Bearing Nut Spinning


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#16 Vince208

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 09:02 AM

Thank you all - most helpful.  On closer inspection, the thread on the pin is not stripped - it was blocked with fine pieces of metal from the stripped nut.  As you can imagine, this lightened my mood no end.  The inner bearing fell apart on removal, which seems to have validated my decision to start the job in the first place.  All I need now is a new nut, and I'll be on my way!

 

Incidentally - can anyone say why the NSF is not a reverse thread, but the NSR is?

 

Thanks again.



#17 mini13

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 09:34 AM

The nsf the "axle" rotates, so if the nut loosens it won't try to undo in the same way as the rear one

#18 Rorf

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 10:21 AM

The flange is fixed by splines on the outside of the CV joint axle. 



#19 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 10:47 AM

50 years ago on quality car trailers, the nearside stub axles of almost all rubber "Indispension" units were left hand threads and baffled many amateur home engineers.

 

Other cases of using left hand threads are split rim wheels, so that when removing a wheel from an axle, the wheel is not inadvertently dismantled.   Steam central heating systems have a very heavy wall gauge and use left hand threads for all the pipe unions, and of course 'Turnbuckles' incorporate a left and a right hand thread.



#20 nicklouse

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 11:01 AM

Found out recently many trucks have wheel studs with LH threads one side and RH on the other.

Bike also have left and right threaded pedals.

#21 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 11:21 AM

Found out recently many trucks have wheel studs with LH threads one side and RH on the other.

Bike also have left and right threaded pedals.

The couplings of "inflamable gas" bottles (Butane, Propane, Acetylene etc:) are always LHT



#22 Deathrow

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 12:16 PM

Thank you all - most helpful.  On closer inspection, the thread on the pin is not stripped - it was blocked with fine pieces of metal from the stripped nut.  As you can imagine, this lightened my mood no end.  The inner bearing fell apart on removal, which seems to have validated my decision to start the job in the first place.  All I need now is a new nut, and I'll be on my way!

 

Incidentally - can anyone say why the NSF is not a reverse thread, but the NSR is?

 

Thanks again.

 

I would be cautious of the threads on that pin. If you've tightened to the point the threads in the nut have given way, how can you be sure the threads on the pin haven't also been damaged?

When your new nut arrives, I'd put it on the pin and make sure it spins up and down freely the entire thread length of the pin. If it tightens up at any point then the threads on the pin have deformed and you should definitely replace it. Personally, I'm not sure I'd re-use the pin myself but that's just my opinion.



#23 DeadSquare

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 12:52 PM

Thank you all - most helpful.  On closer inspection, the thread on the pin is not stripped - it was blocked with fine pieces of metal from the stripped nut.  As you can imagine, this lightened my mood no end.  The inner bearing fell apart on removal, which seems to have validated my decision to start the job in the first place.  All I need now is a new nut, and I'll be on my way!

 

Incidentally - can anyone say why the NSF is not a reverse thread, but the NSR is?

 

Thanks again.

 

You are not the first person to have the bearing fall apart !.  Why do Cooper S have Timken taper roller bearings ?






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