9 replies to this topic

[bdean]

So what gives here. I have a brand new heritage rear subframe and brackets. The the radius arms have been refurbished and I have new pins and washers etc.

 

One side fits OK. To confirm, once I have fitted the radius arm mounting bracket and its all fastened up should the radius arm still move quite freely of should it be quite tight and stiff to move? Does anyone have the torque value for the radius arm bracket?

 

The other side is giving me real problems. The bracket on its own fits well to the subframe. When I tried fitting the radius arm the bracket did not line up with the holes on the subframe at all. Going back to basics I removed the shaft from the radius arm and tried to just fit this with the inner and outer thrust washers and the bracket still does not seem to want to line up with the holes. I even tried with the old thrust washer (as these seem slightly thinner) but still no luck.

 

Any ideas? I'm running out of patience! 

[DeadSquare]

Sadly, you have come up against "after-market replacement parts", which, on occasions are not quite the same as the original works items.

 

I have had to "make" these brackets fit by filing the holes, but others here may have a more brilliant solution.

[Swift_General]

I'd fit the brackets (only) the subframe on both sides and measure the distance between the pivot shaft holes. If it's less on the side you are having issues with then (assuming the shafts are accurately made) there's your problem. To answer your other points, the arm should move freely on its shaft with no resistance. Factory spec for the pivot shaft nuts is 45-60 lb ft. Do the brackets to 18 lb ft.

Edited by Swift_General, 19 January 2019 - 03:36 PM.

[Spider]

I'd fit the brackets (only) the subframe on both sides and measure the distance between the pivot shaft holes. If it's less on the side you are having issues with then (assuming the shafts are accurately made) there's your problem. To answer your other points, the arm should move freely on its shaft with no resistance. Factory spec for the pivot shaft nuts is 45-60 lb ft. Do the brackets to 18 lb ft.

 

The Pins, Shoulder to Shoulder are 8.402".

 

Another way around this is to fit the Pin up as you have (with the thrusts) on the Frame and Bracket, but leave the Bracket un-bolted. Looking through the Bolt Holes, you should be able to measure to the welded nuts, close enough, how far things are out.

 

If you find it's only slightly out, you might need to file the holes in the bracket.

[bdean]

I'd fit the brackets (only) the subframe on both sides and measure the distance between the pivot shaft holes. If it's less on the side you are having issues with then (assuming the shafts are accurately made) there's your problem. To answer your other points, the arm should move freely on its shaft with no resistance. Factory spec for the pivot shaft nuts is 45-60 lb ft. Do the brackets to 18 lb ft.

 
The Pins, Shoulder to Shoulder are 8.402".
 
Another way around this is to fit the Pin up as you have (with the thrusts) on the Frame and Bracket, but leave the Bracket un-bolted. Looking through the Bolt Holes, you should be able to measure to the welded nuts, close enough, how far things are out.
 
If you find it's only slightly out, you might need to file the holes in the bracket.

It’s mainly the final hole that I can’t get lined up. I could drill it a slightly larger diameter. Would this effect the strength/safety?

[DeadSquare]

 

 

I'd fit the brackets (only) the subframe on both sides and measure the distance between the pivot shaft holes. If it's less on the side you are having issues with then (assuming the shafts are accurately made) there's your problem. To answer your other points, the arm should move freely on its shaft with no resistance. Factory spec for the pivot shaft nuts is 45-60 lb ft. Do the brackets to 18 lb ft.

 
The Pins, Shoulder to Shoulder are 8.402".
 
Another way around this is to fit the Pin up as you have (with the thrusts) on the Frame and Bracket, but leave the Bracket un-bolted. Looking through the Bolt Holes, you should be able to measure to the welded nuts, close enough, how far things are out.
 
If you find it's only slightly out, you might need to file the holes in the bracket.

It’s mainly the final hole that I can’t get lined up. I could drill it a slightly larger diameter. Would this effect the strength/safety?

 

 

You can extend the hole by 1 MM with no worry.

[nicklouse]

What is meant by final hole.

[bdean]

So I fitted the brackets on their own. One side is ~223mm the other is ~219mm so I can see what the issue is! Are there any markings on the subframe to denote that it would be genuine heritage? This is what I asked my supplier to provide.

[DeadSquare]

So I fitted the brackets on their own. One side is ~223mm the other is ~219mm so I can see what the issue is! Are there any markings on the subframe to denote that it would be genuine heritage? This is what I asked my supplier to provide.

 

I have just sorted out a very old bracket, and all three holes are oval !   The ovality allows for about 1/8" of movement.

 

@Moke has come up with a shoulder to shoulder dimension for the shaft of 8.402", which is a smidgen over 213.4MM, to which you must add the washer either end, and that will be the dimension that you should have between the subframe and the bracket.

 

You mentioned that the movement of the radius arm was stiff.  It might be worth inserting the shaft into the radius arm, adding both washers and tightening the nuts to see if the shaft rotates easily when turned with a spanner.

 

I do not know of any "Hall-Mark" that denotes a heritage item.

[DeadSquare]

What is meant by final hole.

 

It's the one that the Undertaker drops you in.