43 replies to this topic

[Its a min]

Me again!

 

So, after my last couple of threads regarding gear engagement problems and clutch rebuild, http://www.theminifo...clutch-rebuild/

 

the mini gremlins have struck again.

 

I got everything back together today and all was going smoothly. I was even impressed with my newly acquired solar light bulb for general lighting in the garage. That is until I went to try and start her up. A turn of the key and she spluttered into life and almost instantly died on me. That was the last sign of life apart from the odd cough and splutter.

 

So I went through the basics and confirmed fuel is getting to the carb, oil in the dashpot, electronic ignition so no points to check, spark plugs gapped correctly, spark is pretty strong, new earth strap and earthing points cleaned. I put fresh 99RON in last week so don't think the petrol is stale. 

 

The car was running before, and as I didn't work on anything but the clutch side, I assumed it couldn't be associated with anything I'd done however, I loosened the dizzy bolt and gradually turned it whilst my brother cranked the engine but still no sign of starting. There doesn't appear to be any air leaks but then again, why would there be as I'd not touched anything but the clutch components.

 

One thing I did notice was, and not sure if this is normal, the earth strap from the head to bulkhead was warm.

 

I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions/thoughts as always.

 

Cheers.

[DeadSquare]

The earth strap will get warm if you do a lot of cranking, as will the cable from the battery, which being covered with plastic, is not as noticeable.

 

If your battery is cranking the engine well, your problem is not likely to be electrical.  I'd go to bed, let any excess fuel evaporate, and in the morning warm the carb with a hair dryer before trying to start the engine.

[ukcooper]

 

i allways put two earth straps on the engine no matter what car i owned up to the year 2k , have you 13 volts at the dizzy , wrong carb set up ????

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by ukcooper, 20 January 2019 - 02:25 PM.

[Its a min]

Thanks guys.

 

It's got a standard HS4 with AAU needle which came with the minispares stage 1 kit fitted. Still can't understand why it won't start as I'd not touched anything other than the clutch set-up.

 

Tried again today with a fully charged battery and still just turns but won't start. One thing I did notice was that as I slowly turned the dizzy, the speed of the turnover increased then dropped again. Any ideas?

 

Thanks.

[andyapanel]

Check the carb piston can move; they can stick sometimes.

Good luck; at least it probably does not sound HT-ish, tho I have history with Coils.

[jime17]

Thanks guys.

It's got a standard HS4 with AAU needle which came with the minispares stage 1 kit fitted. Still can't understand why it won't start as I'd not touched anything other than the clutch set-up.

Tried again today with a fully charged battery and still just turns but won't start. One thing I did notice was that as I slowly turned the dizzy, the speed of the turnover increased then dropped again. Any ideas?

Thanks.

My guess would be the static timing is too far advanced and the combustion is kicking back against the rotation of the engine by the starter motor and not allowing it to gain sufficient momentum to start.

Retarding the timing causes firing to be closer to the correct point in the cycle and less resistance to the starter motor.

If you disconnect the coil low tension wire you will probably find the cranking happens at normal speed.

[Its a min]

 

Thanks guys.

It's got a standard HS4 with AAU needle which came with the minispares stage 1 kit fitted. Still can't understand why it won't start as I'd not touched anything other than the clutch set-up.

Tried again today with a fully charged battery and still just turns but won't start. One thing I did notice was that as I slowly turned the dizzy, the speed of the turnover increased then dropped again. Any ideas?

Thanks.

My guess would be the static timing is too far advanced and the combustion is kicking back against the rotation of the engine by the starter motor and not allowing it to gain sufficient momentum to start.

Retarding the timing causes firing to be closer to the correct point in the cycle and less resistance to the starter motor.

If you disconnect the coil low tension wire you will probably find the cranking happens at normal speed.

 

Thanks jime17.

 

I understand that and I'll have to check it again but what's baffling me is that nothing was touched other than the clutch/flywheel assembly to check end floats/clutch/flywheel etc. The car was running fine before.

 

Any other ideas?

[cal844]

Check the resistance across the coil, I've had it where we fitted a clutch and the car gives issues with electrics. In my case it was a poor contact terminal on the coil.

Was the coil removed whilst you fitted the clutch? Double check your wiring is correct (been there done that)

If everything tests ok, try some start ya bastard down the carb throat

Edited by cal844, 22 January 2019 - 10:49 PM.

[Its a min]

Hi Cal844,

 

Tried some fuel down the carb throat and spluttered as bad as me in the morning but just wouldn't start. Was thinking of fitting a fuel tank to the roof and drip feeding the carb if it worked (haha)

 

The coil was removed and checked all the wiring when reconnected. I'm getting a good spark so didn't think it would be the coil but may just try a new one. Any recommendations on best coil for standard 998A+ with stage 1 kit and electronic module conversion?

[Sovereign01]

I assume you've checked the fuses?

 

My mini had something similar happen about 10 years ago, broke down about a mile from my house, it would turn over but not actually start. Long story short, it wasn't the fuel pump as the AA guy suggested, when the local garage looked it over they found it was a blown ignition fuse. Seemingly those were some way down their checklist for electrical problems.

[Its a min]

I assume you've checked the fuses?

 

My mini had something similar happen about 10 years ago, broke down about a mile from my house, it would turn over but not actually start. Long story short, it wasn't the fuel pump as the AA guy suggested, when the local garage looked it over they found it was a blown ignition fuse. Seemingly those were some way down their checklist for electrical problems.

Cheers Sovereign01,

 

Not checked the fuses as assumed they'd be ok as i'm getting power but I guess it's never a good thing to assume so will check them.

[nicklouse]

do the basics. got fuel at carb? got spark? is the spark happening at the right time?

[DeadSquare]

Having loosened and "swung" the dizzy, it needs timing and bolting tight again.

 

It wouldn't do any harm to check the tappets.

 

Remove the top of the float chamber and make sure that the needle valve is functioning.

 

I again advocate warming the carb body and float chamber.

 

With your brother to help, remove the plugs, clean them, gap them and then heat them well away from the car in a gas torch, while you treat the air filter to a good dose of "Aerostart";  then, while all the plugs are very hot, quickly replace them and try the starter.

[cal844]

When you tried fuel down the carb it spluttered so I'd suggest to make sure the float bowl is filling, also check operation of the float valve

[Its a min]

do the basics. got fuel at carb? got spark? is the spark happening at the right time?

Hi nicklouse,

 

Fuel is getting to the carb and got what seems to be a decent spark. The timing was right before I had to remove the clutch assembly and nothing else was touched. Now I've turned the dizzy I'll have to re-time it but can't understand why it wouldn't start before I moved the dizzy as it was running fine before the clutch assembly was removed.

 

 

Having loosened and "swung" the dizzy, it needs timing and bolting tight again.

 

It wouldn't do any harm to check the tappets.

 

Remove the top of the float chamber and make sure that the needle valve is functioning.

 

I again advocate warming the carb body and float chamber.

 

With your brother to help, remove the plugs, clean them, gap them and then heat them well away from the car in a gas torch, while you treat the air filter to a good dose of "Aerostart";  then, while all the plugs are very hot, quickly replace them and try the starter.

Hi Dead Square,

 

Timing will definitely need to be done but guess I'll have to do static timing as I can't get it running. 

 

The tappets were checked just before the clutch assembly was removed when it was running fine and have not been touched since but as you say, for the time it takes, I'll re-check them as well as the other suggestions you've made.

 

Cheers for the posts guys.