10 replies to this topic

[bdean]

What is the correct order for the inner?

 

Bearing Carrier

Bearing

Thin Spacer

Oil Seal

White Plastic Disc?

 

[nicklouse]

it is all in your Haynes manual with a very clear picture.

bearing, spacer, seal, guard, CV face

[Spider]

Clean.

Clean.

Clean.
Inspect.

Clean.
Fit both Outer Cups (taking care not to mix them up from how there were supplied),

Clean.
Inspect & Measure.

Grease Outer Cone, fit along with the seal.
Turn Hub over.

Fit the Spacer. I used to also grease these, but I've found better Bearing, CV and Drive Flange Life from fitting them 'dry'.

Grease Inner Bearing, fit along with seal.
Grease the lips of the Seals.

Fit the Wiper to the CV.

Fit CV.
Fit Drive Flange, Tapered Collar & Nut.
Torque. Next Slot / Hole, Fit Split Pin.

[Rorf]

Couldn't agree more with Moke s, that is the only way

[bdean]

Clean.

Clean.

Clean.
Inspect.

Clean.
Fit both Outer Cups (taking care not to mix them up from how there were supplied),

Clean.
Inspect & Measure.

Grease Outer Cone, fit along with the seal.
Turn Hub over.

Fit the Spacer. I used to also grease these, but I've found better Bearing, CV and Drive Flange Life from fitting them 'dry'.

Grease Inner Bearing, fit along with seal.
Grease the lips of the Seals.

Fit the Wiper to the CV.

Fit CV.
Fit Drive Flange, Tapered Collar & Nut.
Torque. Next Slot / Hole, Fit Split Pin.

Presumably I need to add the disc brake in there at some point before torquing everything up. 

[GraemeC]

I think he’s presuming you’ll already have assembled the disc to the drive flange

[DeadSquare]

Tongue-in-cheek;  if you are going to tow the car on an A frame, I wouldn't fit the disc.

[Spider]

 

Clean.

Clean.

Clean.
Inspect.

Clean.
Fit both Outer Cups (taking care not to mix them up from how there were supplied),

Clean.
Inspect & Measure.

Grease Outer Cone, fit along with the seal.
Turn Hub over.

Fit the Spacer. I used to also grease these, but I've found better Bearing, CV and Drive Flange Life from fitting them 'dry'.

Grease Inner Bearing, fit along with seal.
Grease the lips of the Seals.

Fit the Wiper to the CV.

Fit CV.
Fit Drive Flange, Tapered Collar & Nut.
Torque. Next Slot / Hole, Fit Split Pin.

Presumably I need to add the disc brake in there at some point before torquing everything up. 

 

 

Oh Brakes too !!

 

Yes, as Graeme mentioned. You'd fit the disc to the flange before fitting the flange to the assembly.

 

Depending on what you have to work with, you might torque up the disc bolts before fitting the flange to the assembly. I have an angle iron frame for all the torque work, so I do them all together on the bench.

 

 

 

 

 

Or, if you have a big enough press. I'm sure there's another way

[Compdoc]

In my Haynes manual it mentions torquing up the hub nut to a plain washer before fitting the split tapered collar and torquing again. Is this assumed or not something that's required these days?

[Spider]

In my Haynes manual it mentions torquing up the hub nut to a plain washer before fitting the split tapered collar and torquing again. Is this assumed or not something that's required these days?

 

In very later years, this was also the factory advise too, however, it wasn't always the case.

 

I'm not 100% sure on the reasoning behind that and as the nut is torqued, then undone to allow for the fitting of the Tapered Collar, any 'benefit' from the initial Torquing up is totally lost. I've never done it.

 

It appears that the Tapered Collars might have been 'tight' on the CV - and keep in mind, they must seat on the right location on the CV to have any effect - and the Flat Washer Technique, might have been instigated to help with this, though, if the Tapered Collar is too tight or closed up from the outset then there's no method of tightening that will ever seat it and the Bearing will always feel loose.

 

There's more on this here;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

[Compdoc]

 

In my Haynes manual it mentions torquing up the hub nut to a plain washer before fitting the split tapered collar and torquing again. Is this assumed or not something that's required these days?

 

In very later years, this was also the factory advise too, however, it wasn't always the case.

 

I'm not 100% sure on the reasoning behind that and as the nut is torqued, then undone to allow for the fitting of the Tapered Collar, any 'benefit' from the initial Torquing up is totally lost. I've never done it.

 

It appears that the Tapered Collars might have been 'tight' on the CV - and keep in mind, they must seat on the right location on the CV to have any effect - and the Flat Washer Technique, might have been instigated to help with this, though, if the Tapered Collar is too tight or closed up from the outset then there's no method of tightening that will ever seat it and the Bearing will always feel loose.

 

There's more on this here;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

 

I'm intending to overhaul the complete front suspension, hubs and drive shafts over the winter and purchased, some time ago, a service tool from Minispares. http://www.minispare...|Back to search

As you say, It doesn't really explain why this should be needed but I assume that the sturdy flat washer can pull the nose of the driveshaft through the hub better than the split coned washer. Perhaps the cone washer having a split that allows it to possibly grip the driveshaft nose, as well as a chamfered edge, directs the available torque into different  areas rather than head-on to pull the driveshaft through. (Just a guess).

Thanks for the link, I will definitely follow that to the letter. I only wish I had seen it before I refurbished my rear radius arms and wheel bearings, I would have been a lot more meticulous.