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Spi Conversion On A Deseamed Mk1


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#1 fiestaharry

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 06:08 PM

Hi Guys

 

I managed to find a deseamed shell and documents which i am starting to build up. 

 

HvBZlbBl.jpg

 

I have an SPI mini 1992 with 22k on it, that i have very little money in, so i am planning on using the complete rear subframe assembly (heritage previous owner fitted pretty much brand new) fueling, and the complete engine unit.

 

Before i start getting the car in paint is there anything that i am going to have to weld etc to get the engine and ancillaries in?

 

As you may understand, if i were to build from scratch it would cost alot of money to get it up and running.

 

My thoughts at the moment are:

 

- There is a remote shift cut out, i assume i will have to weld this hole up and take a template from the spi shell for a cut out, for the new shifter.

 

- I am not going to be able to use the Spi electric fan, would it overheat without it if i used something like evans coolant, or could i retrofit an electric fan?

 

- I am going to have to drill and bolt the ecu bracket onto the inner wing. 

 

- I have a good twin bolt front subframe, will the engine mounts bolt straight onto that?

 

- I will be using a centre binnacle, so i will just have to get the wiring conversion from minispares.

 

- The relays and wiring on the bulkhead can just be riveted onto the mk1 bulkhead.

 

- 10" front cooper brake conversion

 

- Maybe decat the exhaust and fun better manifold and rc40?

 

Can anyone think of any other major changes i will have to make, i know i will run into a few problems along the way. 


Edited by fiestaharry, 31 January 2019 - 06:24 PM.


#2 nicklouse

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 06:53 PM

dont bother with the SPi set up convert it to carb much more in look to the original.

 

yep just about the only thing you will need to do is mod the hole for the linkage. note there are no mounts for rear seatbelts  and most of the glass will not fit.



#3 fiestaharry

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 07:58 PM

I think i will stick with the spi and then go to carb if/when i get issues, seat belts shouldnt be an issue as i dont think i will have a rear seat due to the alley cage. 

 

I have a stock of mk1 glass so that isnt an issue.

 

Will the curved centre tunnel be a problem where the later cars are squared off? 



#4 cal844

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Posted 31 January 2019 - 10:29 PM

Carb convert the SPI as you won't need the extra relays etc on the bulkhead.

The SPI engine will fit the car but your throttle body will catch the bulkhead as the SPI engines were 1/2 inch further forward in the frame.

#5 Midas Mk1

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 09:36 AM

Carb fuel lines too, just easier in general, and you wont have to deal with the stupid rover mems system. 

Cat? really?  O_O  And you can fit a eleccy fan on the inner wing with cable ties.. ;) 



#6 Jase

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 09:59 AM

I have a new SPi engine and am converting to carbs, need to change the dizzy. Although if you do convert you will need to change the tank I believe? You will also need to drill extra holes in the boot for fuel lines etc. Looks a good project.



#7 mab01uk

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 10:25 AM



Hi Guys

I managed to find a deseamed shell and documents which i am starting to build up.

HvBZlbBl.jpg

I have an SPI mini 1992 with 22k on it, that i have very little money in, so i am planning on using the complete rear subframe assembly (heritage previous owner fitted pretty much brand new) fueling, and the complete engine unit.

Before i start getting the car in paint is there anything that i am going to have to weld etc to get the engine and ancillaries in?

As you may understand, if i were to build from scratch it would cost alot of money to get it up and running.

My thoughts at the moment are:

- There is a remote shift cut out, i assume i will have to weld this hole up and take a template from the spi shell for a cut out, for the new shifter.

- I am not going to be able to use the Spi electric fan, would it overheat without it if i used something like evans coolant, or could i retrofit an electric fan?

- I am going to have to drill and bolt the ecu bracket onto the inner wing.

- I have a good twin bolt front subframe, will the engine mounts bolt straight onto that?

- I will be using a centre binnacle, so i will just have to get the wiring conversion from minispares.

- The relays and wiring on the bulkhead can just be riveted onto the mk1 bulkhead.

- 10" front cooper brake conversion

- Maybe decat the exhaust and fun better manifold and rc40?

Can anyone think of any other major changes i will have to make, i know i will run into a few problems along the way.



You need to buy this kit in link below or make a similar adaptor bracket. This way you do not have to alter the early floor tunnel or cut-out and preserve the value and originality of your early bodyshell.
Mini Rod Change Adapter To Floor Mounting Kit For The Non Rod Change

"Rod Change Installation Kit If you are among the very many of us that are finally updating our vintage Minis to the more modern Rod Change shift linkage, Mini Mania can now make it a lot easier. Any Mini body not originally equipped with a rod change has a difference in the floor tunnel where the end of the shift extension is mounted. On the later cars it is squared off and on the early cars it is rounded. The stock rod change mount is flat! Mini Mania has now designed an easy to install kit that allows a direct bolt-in of a rod-change shifter into an early car. This kit includes rubber mounts, bracketry and drilling alignment guides."
https://www.minimani...-Non-Rod-Change

How to fit:-
https://www.minimani...version_Bracket

HLGfH93.jpg

 

Minispares also sell this bracket but currently out of stock.
MSSK053
ROD CHANGE SHIFTER CONVERSION BRACKET

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

 

Nice to see an early deseamed 'period modified' Mini as so few have survived or were done well. It will make a great project and will stand out from all the factory standard restored Minis that are seen at shows today.

SPi electric fan is an easy fit to inner wing under the wheel arch, I just used some spacers to stand the fan off the early vertical vent cutouts, no need to cut a large hole like the later shells and again retaining an early feature.

Later engine mounts are same and fit earlier subframes but as stated SPi engine was half inch further forward, you can elongate the holes in subframe to later spec if you wish.

You might also be interested in this story and photos in link below of an MPi engine conversion into an earlier carb Mini:-
Brian Gunn charts the process of fitting an MPi engine to his 1983 Mini.
https://www.aronline...mpi-conversion/


Edited by mab01uk, 01 April 2019 - 10:26 AM.


#8 fiestaharry

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 12:15 PM

Ok thanks for the advice, mini spares have the adaptor, which will save me some time on the build instead of fabricating something from scratch



#9 Zach P-D

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Posted 05 February 2019 - 09:40 PM

ditch the SPI
I'm taking my SPI engine out this weekend for a carb 1310, i have constant issues with the stepper motor causing the revs to fluctuate from 500rpm to 3500rpm idle.. had enough of it so going carb. 



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 05 February 2019 - 10:12 PM

I built an engine for an SPI and we put twin HS4's on with a 266 can and a better head.

The distributor was an Aldon 'Yellow', it had a lighter flywheel, 10:1 CR and it went very well.

Yes, ditch the injection.



#11 fiestaharry

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 10:33 AM

With regards to the rod change i am assuming i have to weld the hole up for the remote change and then cut a new hole in the tunnel for the rod change?

 

And the 1/2" forwards change in the engine mounting, is that an exact science, can i just measure and drill the subframe, would rather not put any slots in it.



#12 mab01uk

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 08:27 PM

With regards to the rod change i am assuming i have to weld the hole up for the remote change and then cut a new hole in the tunnel for the rod change?

 

And the 1/2" forwards change in the engine mounting, is that an exact science, can i just measure and drill the subframe, would rather not put any slots in it.

 

"If you are converting from a “Remote-shift” transmission, you may use the existing hole in the tunnel (for the rod shift)."

Extract from fitting instructions here:-

https://www.minimani...version_Bracket

 

Some info in this link about the 1/2" longer rod change, engine steady bar and the slots/holes in later front subframes which may help:-

http://www.theminifo...later-subframe/



#13 fiestaharry

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 10:09 PM

many thanks 






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