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Engine Rebuild Costing Options - Cost Cutting


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#1 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 02:23 PM

Ok I have put this in the chat area as I am just throwing some thoughts out there and don't want to get shot down in flames. Which when looking at the title many of you will say you should never cut costs when rebuilding an engine :-)

 

Anyway, I am costing up my options to upgrade my 1982 HLE 1000 which I refurbished in the project link below. I never got around to lifting the engine and dropping the front subframe and want to do this now.

 

To compliment the engine I am also going to tidy up the engine compartment and do a 7.5 Drum to Disc Brake conversion.

 

I have costed near enough everything up and it comes to just over £2500, but what I am trying to do now is see where I can cut / reduce any costs, by either omitting something or doing it later (without having to lift the engine maybe) after the build is completed and the car is on the road again. 

 

Possible reductions I am considering or after fits that I could get away are:

1. Re-using the old clutch from the 1275 (Not the best option) (my 998 needs replacing I believe as it jumps at the top of the bite).

2. Electronic Ignition - Easy later upgrade but would impact the engines performance 

3. Radiator and Hoses on the 998 option as my original 998 Radiator whilst a little battered would be inappropriate for the 1275 but what about a higher performance 1079 / 1098?

 

Build Options are:

 

1. My 998 bored to 1079 with a 12G295 head (which I have but is missing rockers) 

2. My 998 bored to 1098 12G295 as above (good SH 1098 crank inbound) 

3 1275 prob bored to 1293 (I have a salvaged early MG Metro A+ 1275 that's done about 50k all bores are good but one has some slight rust damage from having coolant sitting on top of the piston (may remove with a hone?)

 

My costings for the above are as follows:

Machining

4. Rebore 

5. Re-Face Block

6. Crank Re-Grind

7. Cylinder Head Refurb

8. Flywheel / Clutch Balancing

£625

 

Upgraded Parts

9. BP255 Cam

10. Cam Followers

11. Cam Chain

12. Oil Pump

13. Pistons

14. AP Rated Clutch Kit

15. 3.1 FD Crown Wheel and Pinion

£780

 

Additional Parts

16. Electronic Ignition

17. New Aluminium Radiator

18. Radiator Hoses

 

£380

 

Sundries

19. Engine Gasket Set

20. Gearbox Gasket Set

21. Cylinder Studs

22. Engine Build Lube

23. Zinc Plating Existing Nuts, Bolts and Brackets

24. Engine Enamel Paint

£150

 

Sub Total £1935

 

Stage One and Disc Conversion

£600

 

Grand Total £2535

 

I am sure there will be other costs over and above the above such as paint, brake hoses etc. I also have not included the cost of sintered rockers for the 12G295.

 

I have a HIF 38 and 44 but was considering dual SUs.

I am also unsure of which choice, small bore or large bore (don't reply to that because I have already asked this question several times and the results always sway towards large bore (bang for the buck).

 

Your thoughts / advice would be most welcomed :-)

 

 

 

 

 



#2 KTS

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 03:28 PM

the best way of wasting money on any kind of project is to start it without a clear understanding of what it is you want build and how you plan to build it

 

i would start by inspecting the blocks & cranks that you currently have to figure out what machining needs to be done to make them serviceable.  this exercise should then allow you to work out what combinations you've listed above are achievable and the relative costings of each

 

once you've made a decision on the short motor, you'll then be in a position to make informed decisions regarding cams, heads, carbs, exhaust etc

 

from there, you should be better placed to distinguish between what you need to do, and what you'd like to do - no guesses for which list you should be looking at for cost savings (..if you think the need to do list is where you'll make most cost savings then you must be one of the IT programme managers where I work  O_O ) 



#3 1984mini25

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 04:26 PM

The 998 and 1275 clutches aren't interchangeable (the 998 one is 180 and the 1275 is 190mm). And the hoes aren't, well just the top hoses are different, but changing a bottom hose isn't much fun without having to at least remove the radiator first.



#4 DeadSquare

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 05:02 PM

How much of the 1275 have you got?



#5 cal844

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 05:59 PM

The 998 and 1275 clutches aren't interchangeable (the 998 one is 180 and the 1275 is 190mm). And the hoes aren't, well just the top hoses are different, but changing a bottom hose isn't much fun without having to at least remove the radiator first.


Although very fiddly I have replaced a bottom hose in place, not fun though!

#6 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 06:43 PM

The 998 and 1275 clutches aren't interchangeable (the 998 one is 180 and the 1275 is 190mm). And the hoes aren't, well just the top hoses are different, but changing a bottom hose isn't much fun without having to at least remove the radiator first.

yes they are they were all the same size to start with only the very last ones got a bigger one.



#7 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 06:46 PM

Ok I have put this in the chat area as I am just throwing some thoughts out there and don't want to get shot down in flames. Which when looking at the title many of you will say you should never cut costs when rebuilding an engine :-)

 

Anyway, I am costing up my options to upgrade my 1982 HLE 1000 which I refurbished in the project link below. I never got around to lifting the engine and dropping the front subframe and want to do this now.

 

To compliment the engine I am also going to tidy up the engine compartment and do a 7.5 Drum to Disc Brake conversion.

 

I have costed near enough everything up and it comes to just over £2500, but what I am trying to do now is see where I can cut / reduce any costs, by either omitting something or doing it later (without having to lift the engine maybe) after the build is completed and the car is on the road again. 

 

Possible reductions I am considering or after fits that I could get away are:

1. Re-using the old clutch from the 1275 (Not the best option) (my 998 needs replacing I believe as it jumps at the top of the bite).

2. Electronic Ignition - Easy later upgrade but would impact the engines performance 

3. Radiator and Hoses on the 998 option as my original 998 Radiator whilst a little battered would be inappropriate for the 1275 but what about a higher performance 1079 / 1098?

 

Build Options are:

 

1. My 998 bored to 1079 with a 12G295 head (which I have but is missing rockers) 

2. My 998 bored to 1098 12G295 as above (good SH 1098 crank inbound) 

3 1275 prob bored to 1293 (I have a salvaged early MG Metro A+ 1275 that's done about 50k all bores are good but one has some slight rust damage from having coolant sitting on top of the piston (may remove with a hone?)

 

My costings for the above are as follows:

Machining

4. Rebore 

5. Re-Face Block

6. Crank Re-Grind

7. Cylinder Head Refurb

8. Flywheel / Clutch Balancing

£625

 

Upgraded Parts

9. BP255 Cam

10. Cam Followers

11. Cam Chain

12. Oil Pump

13. Pistons

14. AP Rated Clutch Kit

15. 3.1 FD Crown Wheel and Pinion

£780

 

Additional Parts

16. Electronic Ignition

17. New Aluminium Radiator

18. Radiator Hoses

 

£380

 

Sundries

19. Engine Gasket Set

20. Gearbox Gasket Set

21. Cylinder Studs

22. Engine Build Lube

23. Zinc Plating Existing Nuts, Bolts and Brackets

24. Engine Enamel Paint

£150

 

Sub Total £1935

 

Stage One and Disc Conversion

£600

 

Grand Total £2535

 

I am sure there will be other costs over and above the above such as paint, brake hoses etc. I also have not included the cost of sintered rockers for the 12G295.

 

I have a HIF 38 and 44 but was considering dual SUs.

I am also unsure of which choice, small bore or large bore (don't reply to that because I have already asked this question several times and the results always sway towards large bore (bang for the buck).

 

Your thoughts / advice would be most welcomed :-)

most of that is a waste of money.

seriously look at the Minispares short motors.

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

then add a head

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 get a needle to suit. a few gaskets and the clutch kit you want and you are way under your figure.



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 06:49 PM

you could even get a Guesswork box with 3.1 and cross pin diff and still be way under your current cost.

 

opps thats what we did.

 

http://www.theminifo...das-gold-black/



#9 1984mini25

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 06:57 PM

 

The 998 and 1275 clutches aren't interchangeable (the 998 one is 180 and the 1275 is 190mm). And the hoes aren't, well just the top hoses are different, but changing a bottom hose isn't much fun without having to at least remove the radiator first.

yes they are they were all the same size to start with only the very last ones got a bigger one.

 

 

But would you consider fitting a used 1275 clutch or the a new smaller 180mm 998 clutch to a rebuilt bored out 1275 (1293).



#10 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 07:22 PM

 

 

The 998 and 1275 clutches aren't interchangeable (the 998 one is 180 and the 1275 is 190mm). And the hoes aren't, well just the top hoses are different, but changing a bottom hose isn't much fun without having to at least remove the radiator first.

yes they are they were all the same size to start with only the very last ones got a bigger one.

 

 

But would you consider fitting a used 1275 clutch or the a new smaller 180mm 998 clutch to a rebuilt bored out 1275 (1293).

 

i would get the surfaces faced and fit the larger friction plate.



#11 Jase

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 07:26 PM

Sacrifice the ignition etc and fit a new clutch, you don't want to revisit that, it's just false economy



#12 Gillybobs

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 07:55 PM

My dad's just rebuilt my 1275 engine that's done nearly 90.000 miles and we have got away with having the bore honed and just replacing the crank shells . The valves were lightly ground and valve seats recut. The gear box was stripped and inspected and rebuilt and the engine rebuilt and a nos mg rover clutch fitted . Everything was checked and measured and found to be in manufacturers tolorances .
Maybe I was lucky but it's probably worth sending some time checking your 1275 engine and evaluating what needs to be done. The only slight problem we had was trying to find some standard piston rings be we did find some in the end.

As for painting the engine bay I have just painted my minis with some professional type rattle cans from a paint supplier who mixed them. They cost about £35 but I'm well impressed with the finish i achieved . I found it a very good diy way of painting the engine bay .

#13 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 08:22 PM

How much of the 1275 have you got?

All of it, but needs a new alternator and water pump at well.

 

GtMPpVh.jpg



#14 nicklouse

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 08:35 PM

looks like you already have electronic ignition there.


Edited by nicklouse, 01 February 2019 - 08:36 PM.


#15 DeadSquare

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 08:50 PM

I recon the you'll get the biggest bang for your buck by doing up the 1300.






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