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Advice On Panel Changes


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#1 Gilles1000

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Posted 08 February 2019 - 02:16 PM

Hello all,

 

I have been removing the whole stonechip of my car to have a better view of the panels to be changed.

I am quite unsure on some panels so I am asking for your experience.

 

First thing is the floor:

At the front, no problem, it will have to be changed. This is the best side.

 

aCWQojil.jpg

 

And the other one

 

JP6uuizl.jpg

 

 

Where I am not sure is how far I need to change it. The ribs have been damaged further than the crossmember, and I could find some small rust areas near the companion bins.

 

0TA1n99l.jpg

 

HCEu0Jel.jpg

 

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Cl0mtntl.jpg

 

qP9JN3ll.jpg

 

My question is: do I need full-length half floors, or is it a better idea to go for a full floor replacement? It is for me clear that the half floors are (much) more work. I know the mounting panel for the rear subframe looks very solid and if I can avoid replacing it that may be better. The thing is, M-Machine only sell complete floors with this panel assembled, which seems to be quite straightforward to change.

 

 

Second point is the boot floor. Same question in fact. Do I better go for a full panel replacement or just the rear section with a part of the wheel well?

 

The rear seat section looks to be only surface rust.

 

3CKzHrsl.jpg

 

Boot floor near the rear panel... Quite common I think

 

lSnOd30l.jpg

 

What would the experienced Mini welder do?

Thank you for your advice!



#2 danie garry

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Posted 08 February 2019 - 03:15 PM

go for the biggest panel you can, much cleaner and less work in the long run if you can fit the panel to where it was originally meant to be rather than having seam welds through half a panel



#3 CBJ805T

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 08:26 AM

If your outer / inner cills are shot as well as you headboard corners and your front corners, then I’d go for a full floor. I changed mine. There’s a lot of chopping out to do but was fairly straight forward. Brace brace brace! I picked up on the toe board mounts and x member using the bracing and I also made a jig for the rear sub to pick up on the boot mounts and heal board.

Then jack up the new floor bolt it in place and weld it where it touches 😀

A few of the issues I ran into http://www.theminifo...1/?fromsearch=1

Edited by CBJ805T, 10 February 2019 - 08:32 AM.


#4 Gilles1000

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 02:08 PM

Hello,

 

thank you for the answers. I think I will go the route of whole panel changes. I hope the higher cost will cover the time spent on changing parts.

I am thinking about M-Machine panels, looking at all the topics that seems to be the best-fitting for general quality and as it seems to fit my '79 Mini.

 

For sure I will brace whereever I can, and preferably more than enough, just in case ;)

and measure measure measure.



#5 jonjosar

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 11:00 PM

Hi Gilles,

What about the M Machine inner sills and floor panel as a substitute? They fit to the 1st flute on the flooor from memory and when i fitted them to my Clubman estate, they were an excellent fit. Ive just finished fitting a heritage floor to my saloon, not the one with the sills and door steps. Again, a really good fit but if i was doing it agsain, i'd definitely go for the one with the sills and door steps. It took ages to fit the lot to the one i had. As for the toe board, its an easy enough repair but bear in mind that the steel is a bit thicker than on the floor itself. Because of that, its easy to butt weld and leave a nice finish.






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