8 replies to this topic

[Gilles1000]

Hello all,

 

I have been removing the whole stonechip of my car to have a better view of the panels to be changed.

I am quite unsure on some panels so I am asking for your experience.

 

First thing is the floor:

At the front, no problem, it will have to be changed. This is the best side.

 

 

And the other one

 

 

 

Where I am not sure is how far I need to change it. The ribs have been damaged further than the crossmember, and I could find some small rust areas near the companion bins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

My question is: do I need full-length half floors, or is it a better idea to go for a full floor replacement? It is for me clear that the half floors are (much) more work. I know the mounting panel for the rear subframe looks very solid and if I can avoid replacing it that may be better. The thing is, M-Machine only sell complete floors with this panel assembled, which seems to be quite straightforward to change.

 

 

Second point is the boot floor. Same question in fact. Do I better go for a full panel replacement or just the rear section with a part of the wheel well?

 

The rear seat section looks to be only surface rust.

 

 

Boot floor near the rear panel... Quite common I think

 

 

What would the experienced Mini welder do?

Thank you for your advice!

[danie garry]

go for the biggest panel you can, much cleaner and less work in the long run if you can fit the panel to where it was originally meant to be rather than having seam welds through half a panel

[CBJ805T]

If your outer / inner cills are shot as well as you headboard corners and your front corners, then I’d go for a full floor. I changed mine. There’s a lot of chopping out to do but was fairly straight forward. Brace brace brace! I picked up on the toe board mounts and x member using the bracing and I also made a jig for the rear sub to pick up on the boot mounts and heal board.

Then jack up the new floor bolt it in place and weld it where it touches ?

A few of the issues I ran into http://www.theminifo...1/?fromsearch=1

Edited by CBJ805T, 10 February 2019 - 08:32 AM.

[Gilles1000]

Hello,

 

thank you for the answers. I think I will go the route of whole panel changes. I hope the higher cost will cover the time spent on changing parts.

I am thinking about M-Machine panels, looking at all the topics that seems to be the best-fitting for general quality and as it seems to fit my '79 Mini.

 

For sure I will brace whereever I can, and preferably more than enough, just in case ;)

and measure measure measure.

[jonjosar]

Hi Gilles,

What about the M Machine inner sills and floor panel as a substitute? They fit to the 1st flute on the flooor from memory and when i fitted them to my Clubman estate, they were an excellent fit. Ive just finished fitting a heritage floor to my saloon, not the one with the sills and door steps. Again, a really good fit but if i was doing it agsain, i'd definitely go for the one with the sills and door steps. It took ages to fit the lot to the one i had. As for the toe board, its an easy enough repair but bear in mind that the steel is a bit thicker than on the floor itself. Because of that, its easy to butt weld and leave a nice finish.

[Gilles1000]

Pfff nearly 10 months gone...

 

In the meantime I went for the M-Machine full floor panel change with inner, outer sills, X-brace and heelboard already welded in.

The car and the new parts have been acid deeped and are now very clean. Pleae see my resto topic for pictures

 

I am about to prepare the floor change but have some questions:

 

- Am I able to drop the whole floor without removing any other part from the body? (A-panels, companion bins...)

- Is it better to repair the door steps before doing the floor change?

 

The way I plan to go is the following:

- Brace the shell, Place pick ups for the toe board and X-member, and everything I can measure on.

- make a jig as a replacement for the rear subframe to check alignment

- remove the old floor (is it better to cut it ner the welds and remove the spot welds afterwards, or drill all the weldings I can find?)

- Do the repairs on nearby panels (toe board, companion bins...)

- Present and fix the new floor

 

Any remark welcome!!

[Daz1968]

I removed all the floor but as I was changing companion bins as well I just chopped them about 2 inches above the floor all around, then drilled spot welds to boot floor and toe board, then cut floor from door steps on outer sill and inner sill. The lot dropped out easily then I cleaned toe board made a few repairs and fitted new floor, as I was changing door steps and boot floor as well I just used them as a guide to height of floor, I also kept bare front and rear subframes in position to help align everything. Was easy to do. Then once floor in position and welded to toe board I removed boot floor and fitted new one with aid of rear lip and bare subframe to keep everything in line. My project mk2 cooper shows my method, 

 Have a look from here

 

http://www.theminifo...2-cooper/page-4

[CBJ805T]

It certainly is, just means a lot of spot welds to drill out. Here's a picture of mine with the floor out - companion bins and door steps in place. 

 

https://www.amazon.c...rhf2mNkLs3ECw4I

 

 

Chris 

[Gilles1000]

Yeah I managed to build the jig for the rear and the bracing.

And as I had time I started to drill the spot welds on inner sill to door steps, see my resto project thread.

 

Anyway, thanks for the comments and good ideas!!

 

Next time (from the 20th december), I will start removing the floor and do the repairs.

I will for a while stop removing metal but then add some back!!