19 replies to this topic

[zebigfatman]

Hey all, I have found the cause of the shavings. It is not as I thought. The shavings were not coming from the teeth of the flywheel this time (they were aluminium)! They were coming from the clutch back plate rubbing against the housing.

I didn't attach the clutch diaphragm (because I was swapping back and fourth between flywheels) which was allowing the backplate to move to far backwards, catching a protrusion in the housing making it hard to turn over hence not starting.

I went over this lunch, cleaned the metal out of the housing and tried I again with the diaphragm. It started first time with no grinding!

I am absolutely certain the flywheel is KAD because I swapped over the friction material and the tapered center from my old one. They are identical.

With regards to not wanting a 286 on a road car. I would completely agree, if I regularly drove round towns or cities, or drove it as a daily. However this is a fun car built for twisty A roads and the track and I love it (when it works)

I am putting the problems I had when the engine was in the car down to the wiring loom.
There is a huge volt drop (8v) on the ignition and the starter when cranking. This is even when you have jump leads off another running car.

I needed to change the loom anyway because almost nothing works off the center switches with the original wiring. Had to put the wipers on a toggle switch ect

Anyway thank you for your help. I am excited for the summer now!!

[nicklouse]

good to hear but i would still be checking with the starter motor supplier as to its compatibility. as i have seen ring gears worm out when the incorrect original ones have been used.

 

i still dont get the love of these high torque starters. my old inertial starter has been starting my engines since my daily 1380 286 build in the late 80s to the current hill climb build 296ish 1293. yes they are lighter but.....

[Nathan1293]

Hi

 

I hope you are getting to the bottom of the metal fillings problem.

 

I have experience running a 1293cc with a 286 cam, but with a Webber 45DCOE, and lightened flywheel.

 

I never had a problem with the engine trying to start, it sometimes needed one or two attempts, but that is more to do with being careful not to flood the engine when starting it.

 

The engine idled fine (not over fast ~900rpm) and was fine, the cam came on between 2500-3000rpm. But pulled cleanly below this, even from 1500 with a light load. Balancing the bottom end helped greatly in my opinion.

 

The difference the flywheel made was the engine would stall very easily. So you have to balance stalling against revving the engine more than you need, together with a heavy clutch this is what makes a light weight flywheel difficult to use on the road.

 

If the engine is tuned well, a lumpy cam and poor running doesn't have to be that bad. It will sound uneven from the exhaust, but cam run acceptably.

[zebigfatman]

Just thought I would update this. I have replaced the flywheel with another KAD one.

Because the voltage dropped to 8V when cranking on the starter solenoid and the coil I relocated the battery into the passenger footwell against the bulkhead.

I also replaced the wiring loom. the old one was full of bodgery like chock blocks and even had a couple of bare switched 12v wires just hanging behind the dash, the wipers did not work off the stalk ect.

The engine went back in with the high power starter and it works! It starts, runs and drives very nicely! I am sure the problem was the wiring loom although I'm sure moving the battery also helped.

Cheers for all of the help and advice guys!

[Retroman]

Contact AC Dodd for a dizzy to match your motor, you might end up doing damage without

 

and for what it costs make some good gains

 

Same applies to a rolling road, I think there is one in Wrexham ??