187 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

You need the drop gears from the engine as the primary gear is a different size for the front bush to suit the step in the 1275 crank.

 

Ideally you'd keep the flywheel case that was with the gearbox, but you'll probably find that the 1275 idler gear has a larger diameter shaft and won't fit - then you'll need to use the 1275 flywheel casing.  In that case I would install a new bearing on the 1st motion shaft nose, making sure you fit the new outer track that it comes with to the casing (this can be a bit if a faff!).

If you replace all the parts to make the 850 gearbox from magic wand to remote, I would love to buy the parts you remove.

[ajperry]

I think the main thing that you’ll be missing is the 1275 primary gear to suit the earlier gearbox.

Is the rod change A or A+? If it uses the same parts as the remote box it might be a source of good gears etc - or are you replacing all the gears with a new set?

If I don’t need to replace the gears I’d rather not. My rod change is A+ so not sure I’ll be able to salvage anything from that?

[ajperry]

You need the drop gears from the engine as the primary gear is a different size for the front bush to suit the step in the 1275 crank.

Ideally you'd keep the flywheel case that was with the gearbox, but you'll probably find that the 1275 idler gear has a larger diameter shaft and won't fit - then you'll need to use the 1275 flywheel casing. In that case I would install a new bearing on the 1st motion shaft nose, making sure you fit the new outer track that it comes with to the casing (this can be a bit if a faff!).
If you replace all the parts to make the 850 gearbox from magic wand to remote, I would love to buy the parts you remove.

Thanks Graeme, I’ll have a look and see. I’ve got the drop gears from my 1275 A+ so will see what fits and what bearings I’ll need. (I’ll probably take some pics and ask you again!)

You’re welcome to the 850 bits as soon as I’ve sorted what I do and don’t need. Will keep you in mind.

[ajperry]

Hi All,

I had a good chat with John from Guessworks last week and he's agreed to help me out and rebuild the remote gearbox. The current plan is to use the A+ gears, layshaft and pot joints etc from my rod change box as they're stronger, along with replacing the various bearings and baulk rings.

I'll also supply the centre oil pick-up pipe I'd bought and my MED x-pin diff and re-use the crown wheel and pinion from the rod change box as this is 3.44:1.

Once we've spoken a bit further and agreed the costs I should be sending him both gearboxes. 

[johnR]

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://i.imgur.com/Tv4AzhN.mp4

 

At the end of the drive today (fortunately just around the corner) a big burst of steam came from under the bonnet, and it seems the heater take off valve has blown. So fortunately nothing major just waiting for it to cool down so I can take a better look. 

 

Now all tucked up in the garage with an eye on it's future heart transplant...

 

 

A fab weekend, and I'm still grinning like a cheshire cat!     

Looks like you had one of the dodgy heater valves MiniSport were selling a while back that only lasted 5 minutes as mine did!

[ajperry]

That’s right John, went pop spraying water and steam everywhere!
Not sure who made it I just sent it to the dustbin!

[ajperry]

The lockdown meant I couldn't go on holiday with the family over Easter, so I took the time to get the wire wheel out and then respray the engine bay. A thoroughly enjoyable job, with the exception of getting the bonnet hinges off... they're awkward!

 

Seems like the paint which was used to respray the shell in 2013 was a commercial product and everywhere I rang up didn't have the paint code or couldn't mix up a can for me, so I ended up ordering a rattle can of Bedouin beige (paint code BLVCA) from ESM Morris Minors morrisminorspares.com and this is a near perfect match.

 

Pretty pleased with the result, it's by no means perfect but I'm chuffed with the refreshed look and got some new shiny bits to go in...

 

 

So now looking out for the larger metal 'S' brake master cylinder to build back up with my new front discs as MiniSpares are out of stock at the moment.

 

Also can anyone tell me what size the nuts are which secure the master cylinders? I want to get some newer stainless ones but can't seem to find what size they are.

 

Cheers 

 

 

[imack]

Looking good, master cylinder nuts are 5/16 unf

[GraemeC]

5/16” UNF (1/2” AF spanner)

[johnR]

The lockdown meant I couldn't go on holiday with the family over Easter, so I took the time to get the wire wheel out and then respray the engine bay. A thoroughly enjoyable job, with the exception of getting the bonnet hinges off... they're awkward!

 

Seems like the paint which was used to respray the shell in 2013 was a commercial product and everywhere I rang up didn't have the paint code or couldn't mix up a can for me, so I ended up ordering a rattle can of Bedouin beige (paint code BLVCA) from ESM Morris Minors morrisminorspares.com and this is a near perfect match.

 

 

 

 

 

Bedouin Beige? Who comes up with these names? Is that a colour you can specify your new camel in?

Edited by johnR, 21 April 2020 - 10:21 AM.

[ajperry]

 

Bedouin Beige? Who comes up with these names? Is that a colour you can specify your new camel in?

 

 

I've actually become quite attached to the colour now. A perfect late 60's to early 70's tone! I fancy coupling it with a muted green shade in the future, perhaps on the roof or a bonnet stripe which goes across the wings to the wheel arches like a lot of the Japanese minis seem to have. But we shall see, that's not on my list of priorities at the moment...

 

And thanks imack and Graeme for the nut size!

Edited by ajperry, 21 April 2020 - 04:52 PM.

[BudgieCake]

chor, enjoyed that read, nice threat to sit and have a brew to. Excellent work, engine is luverly and the car is equally as nice, will be a right peace when its done  x

[1330RG]

I have to say i do love the colour! Its very retro and makes a change from the more common red or whites

[ajperry]

Thanks guys! I’m enjoying myself getting all the bits sorted out and dreaming up more ideas to make it my own.

[ajperry]

Hi all, been doing some inventory in the garage this afternoon and have a bunch of questions, so rather than ask all over the forum in various new topics I thought I’d ask here all at once. Help or direction on one/any/all below appreciated!

1. Water pump pulley - various sizes out there - what’s the difference and what do I need?
2. Thermostat - again various temps out there - what would work best in my engine?
3. Probably related to the above - Can I reuse the radiator from my 850? Will it be ‘man’ enough?
4. Distributor and could - which should I use for my build?
5. Related to above - Will the solenoid which ran on the 850 need replacing or will this work with whatever coil/distributor combo I use?

[recap of my build so far to help with questions above: 1293 A+ block, cylinder head ported, 36/31 valve, SW5 cam, 1.3 rockers, HIF44 carb, MED ST2 ultralight flywheel/clutch assembly, MED x-pin diff]

Thanks!

Alex

Edited by ajperry, 05 May 2020 - 08:14 PM.