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1293 Rebuild


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#121 Rorf

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Posted 25 February 2020 - 05:05 AM

You need sockets and a breaker bar to undo those gearbox nuts.They are very tight and a spanner will not do the trick. When you assemble it again you will need to torque those nuts down again.



#122 ajperry

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Posted 25 February 2020 - 03:22 PM

Excellent news dude! Looks a great mini.
Im going for the same brake kit on mine, my personal advice is only don't bother with ebc green or yellow stuff pads for spirited driving, i always find they fade, i prefer the mintex 1144 pads.


I fitted the MiniSpares 7.5” kit on mine when I switched from 12” to 10” wheels. I’m perfectly happy with it.


Thanks for the feedback chaps. I’ll look into the Mintex pads too then!

You need sockets and a breaker bar to undo those gearbox nuts.They are very tight and a spanner will not do the trick. When you assemble it again you will need to torque those nuts down again.


Yes I’ve come to the same conclusion. I’m gonna buy a breaker bar and correct socket to get this done. I’ve got the big torque wrench to do it all back up, just need to get it apart! Cheers

#123 GraemeC

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Posted 25 February 2020 - 08:35 PM

You will need to find a way to hold the gearbox whilst you undo and redo those nuts trapping it under something very heavy or sturdy is usually the way.



#124 ajperry

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Posted 26 February 2020 - 06:52 PM

You will need to find a way to hold the gearbox whilst you undo and redo those nuts trapping it under something very heavy or sturdy is usually the way.


Thanks buddy. Gonna have to clamp it down to something I think.

#125 alex-95

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Posted 26 February 2020 - 08:06 PM

Great work on the engine! The mini looks great, have you got any plans to change anything on it?

 

This is how I undone (and torqued up) the gearbox. Just a block of wood screwed to my workbench the same height as the G/box. Definitely worth getting a breaker bar comes in very handy, Halfords ones are very good and have the lifetime guarantee. The socket for the nut on the other side is 1 1/2" from memory which is the same size as the balljoint socket.

 

 

 

tGus1io.jpg



#126 ajperry

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Posted 26 February 2020 - 08:17 PM

Great work on the engine! The mini looks great, have you got any plans to change anything on it?

This is how I undone (and torqued up) the gearbox. Just a block of wood screwed to my workbench the same height as the G/box. Definitely worth getting a breaker bar comes in very handy, Halfords ones are very good and have the lifetime guarantee. The socket for the nut on the other side is 1 1/2" from memory which is the same size as the balljoint socket.



tGus1io.jpg


Thanks dude! I’m really enjoying the build. Inspired by your beautiful engine too!

Like the block of wood idea. I’ve got the 24” breaker bar from Halfords yesterday and already had the 1-1/2” socket. Just waiting on the 1-1/8” socket from Amazon as Halfords don’t do those...

I’ll run the mini as standard for a little while just to get some use and joy out of it, then once the engine is complete I’ll get it dyno’d and then into the mini. I’d really like to sort the ride height of it as it’s sitting quite high at the moment. Might be something I do at the same time as when I get the front brakes sorted. What do I need to drop it? Been looking at adjustable arms/camber/hilos but getting very confused!

On the lookout for a remote change box and extension housing if anyone’s got one please let me know?!
Can I reuse the gears I’ve got in a remote case?

#127 alex-95

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Posted 27 February 2020 - 08:26 PM

 

Great work on the engine! The mini looks great, have you got any plans to change anything on it?

This is how I undone (and torqued up) the gearbox. Just a block of wood screwed to my workbench the same height as the G/box. Definitely worth getting a breaker bar comes in very handy, Halfords ones are very good and have the lifetime guarantee. The socket for the nut on the other side is 1 1/2" from memory which is the same size as the balljoint socket.


 


Thanks dude! I’m really enjoying the build. Inspired by your beautiful engine too!

Like the block of wood idea. I’ve got the 24” breaker bar from Halfords yesterday and already had the 1-1/2” socket. Just waiting on the 1-1/8” socket from Amazon as Halfords don’t do those...

I’ll run the mini as standard for a little while just to get some use and joy out of it, then once the engine is complete I’ll get it dyno’d and then into the mini. I’d really like to sort the ride height of it as it’s sitting quite high at the moment. Might be something I do at the same time as when I get the front brakes sorted. What do I need to drop it? Been looking at adjustable arms/camber/hilos but getting very confused!

On the lookout for a remote change box and extension housing if anyone’s got one please let me know?!
Can I reuse the gears I’ve got in a remote case?

 

:thumbsup:

 

You'll need HiLo's to lower the car, and to get the castor and camber correct then you'll need adjustable bottom arms and adjustable tie rods. Would be easier to do while the brakes are off, may pay to re-new the cones while you're there.



#128 timmy850

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Posted 27 February 2020 - 08:54 PM

You can put some rod change 4 synchro gears in a 4 synchro remote gearbox. What part number is the rod change box you have now?

The reverse gear is unique to each gearbox, so you need a remote specific one

I rebuilt my remote type gearbox with mostly rod change gears

#129 johnv

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Posted 27 February 2020 - 10:45 PM

In the bill sollis dvd he bolts a remote tunnel to the gearbox to keep it steady when torquing up the nuts

#130 timmy850

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 02:10 AM

Oh and before you buy a gearbox check the current one on the 850. If it’s a 4 synchro and has the later type magic wand then it’s just a case of bolting the alloy extension on and swapping a couple of little parts

If it looks like this you’re sweet, just need to swap a couple of parts over
Attached File  FB4EAB92-9136-4390-B839-5BCB2AE74C59.jpeg   41.73K   1 downloads

If it’s like this then it’s worth getting a new 4 sync remote box
Attached File  5AA59B7D-A0FD-4C4F-AA84-C537289130FF.jpeg   52.27K   2 downloads

Edited by timmy850, 28 February 2020 - 08:07 PM.


#131 ajperry

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 01:37 PM

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement!

 

I think I've got a 4-synchro later type box, took this pic while inspecting the car:

x3xHgSM.jpg

 

Will this be ok then if I can just find the remote extension bits??



#132 GraemeC

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 04:27 PM

What are the numbers on the front of the casing?



#133 imack

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 04:47 PM

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement!

I think I've got a 4-synchro later type box, took this pic while inspecting the car:
x3xHgSM.jpg

Will this be ok then if I can just find the remote extension bits??



That'll convert to remote change ok with the appropriate parts.
I did it in the 80's on my sisters '71 850.

#134 timmy850

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 08:09 PM

Once you’ve checked the numbers on the front of the case and know it’s the right one it’s pretty easy. Looks like all the holes are drilled and cut in the floor for you already

On the gearbox side you need to replace these parts - remove red and add blue
Attached File  715C6CFF-5AC4-4458-91D2-9908DDDCD5AA.jpeg   34.39K   0 downloads

And then the shifter side is these
Attached File  78BBD9AE-7A6A-4FCE-AA68-EC13004F71FD.jpeg   41.01K   0 downloads

Edited by timmy850, 28 February 2020 - 08:10 PM.


#135 ajperry

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Posted 28 February 2020 - 08:15 PM

Thanks guys. Can’t express how grateful I am for the wisdom. Super helpful peeps!
Picking the car up tomorrow so will check the numbers when I get it home. I might not sleep tonight, I’m too excited!




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