187 replies to this topic

[Jimmy95]

Good work mate... I’m in a similar position, I’ve just bought a 1275 (well think it is ?) until you start taking it apart you don’t know what your going to find out. But similar to yourself I’m looking to get a nice fast road engine. Will keep you posted what i uncover with my engine lol what have you decided on pistons etc? What’s the best shops you have found and looked at for parts etc cheers, Jimmy

[imack]

Nice work but you need to sort out that clutch release arm before you put it back together. Someone's bodged that up in the past by effectively lengthening the push rod presumably because the clutch wasn't disengaging. Replace everything now while its apart.

[ajperry]

Evening. Jimmy95 this is my first rebuild so I’m learning as I go and making plenty of use of the ‘search’ facility on here! So far I’ve found MED to be very good. A lot of the standard kit they have is similarly priced to other retailers and you get the added reassurance that you’re buying something from those with a lot of engine knowledge and years of testing. Got my eye on a set of roller tipped rockers and the ram pipe/air filter for my hif44! Also been browsing the swiftune website... some lovely bits on there!

In terms of pistons I’m going to keep the ones I’ve got as they’re in good nick and I don’t plan on turboing or anything. Although this is a long term project so things may change! ?

imack, thanks for the eagle eye. Another nice bit I can add to my MED shopping cart! It’s not in great condition anyway so it had already made the replace list. ?

Edited by ajperry, 17 April 2019 - 10:04 PM.

[imack]

I'm running the MED clutch release arm on my car - nice piece of kit. Also got their roller tip rockers and filter/stub stack setup, all quality kit.

[johnR]

Bit more tear down today. Got everything except the gearbox dismantled.



Also I can highly recommend using an old baby changing mat under your engine when you don’t have a stand for disassembly. Easy to slide the engine around on the cardboard and keep the major spills contained. Now that the main disassembly has been completed it’s time to say goodbye to this old friend.

Don't chuck that out - good for a few more babies and engines yet!

[johnR]

Nice work but you need to sort out that clutch release arm before you put it back together. Someone's bodged that up in the past by effectively lengthening the push rod presumably because the clutch wasn't disengaging. Replace everything now while its apart.

Is it definitely a pre verto clutch? My Metro derived 1275 had a verto clutch and the longer pre-verto activation arm as you have - I've just changed the arm and bought a plate to mount the slave cylinder etc.

[ajperry]

Bit more tear down today. Got everything except the gearbox dismantled.Also I can highly recommend using an old baby changing mat under your engine when you don’t have a stand for disassembly. Easy to slide the engine around on the cardboard and keep the major spills contained. Now that the main disassembly has been completed it’s time to say goodbye to this old friend.

Don't chuck that out - good for a few more babies and engines yet!

Haha no more babies for me please!!! Two is enough, don’t know how people manage being outnumbered, hats off to anyone with 3+!

[ajperry]

Nice work but you need to sort out that clutch release arm before you put it back together. Someone's bodged that up in the past by effectively lengthening the push rod presumably because the clutch wasn't disengaging. Replace everything now while its apart.

Is it definitely a pre verto clutch? My Metro derived 1275 had a verto clutch and the longer pre-verto activation arm as you have - I've just changed the arm and bought a plate to mount the slave cylinder etc.

  

Hi johnR, my clutch is definitely the pre-verto type as I’ve got the mounting holes on the clutch housing. Might look to replace the flywheel clutch assembly though as it’s pretty rusty!

I'm running the MED clutch release arm on my car - nice piece of kit. Also got their roller tip rockers and filter/stub stack setup, all quality kit.

Nice, I’ve had my eye on all those bits and they will be on my shopping list as soon as I can get my block and cylinder head work has been done.

[ajperry]

Decided to strip the carb and polish up the dash pot and manifold last night/this morning. Also got rid of the “MIN-ITS” cast onto the manifold as I didn’t like the look and the casting of the letters was a bit carp. All the bits look in good condition so should I be replacing seals etc? I’ve seen a lot of people talk about rebuild kits but not sure I need to relplace the spindles and butterfly as they look good.

[johnR]

 

 

Nice work but you need to sort out that clutch release arm before you put it back together. Someone's bodged that up in the past by effectively lengthening the push rod presumably because the clutch wasn't disengaging. Replace everything now while its apart.

Is it definitely a pre verto clutch? My Metro derived 1275 had a verto clutch and the longer pre-verto activation arm as you have - I've just changed the arm and bought a plate to mount the slave cylinder etc.

  

Hi johnR, my clutch is definitely the pre-verto type as I’ve got the mounting holes on the clutch housing. Might look to replace the flywheel clutch assembly though as it’s pretty rusty!

I'm running the MED clutch release arm on my car - nice piece of kit. Also got their roller tip rockers and filter/stub stack setup, all quality kit.

Nice, I’ve had my eye on all those bits and they will be on my shopping list as soon as I can get my block and cylinder head work has been done.

 

I should actually look at the clutch to decide which type it is - the mounting holes on the casing are the same for both types I think - on the pre-verto they mount the slave cylinder direct, on the verto the plate onto which the cylinder bolts.

[ajperry]

Nice work but you need to sort out that clutch release arm before you put it back together. Someone's bodged that up in the past by effectively lengthening the push rod presumably because the clutch wasn't disengaging. Replace everything now while its apart.

Is it definitely a pre verto clutch? My Metro derived 1275 had a verto clutch and the longer pre-verto activation arm as you have - I've just changed the arm and bought a plate to mount the slave cylinder etc.

  

Hi johnR, my clutch is definitely the pre-verto type as I’ve got the mounting holes on the clutch housing. Might look to replace the flywheel clutch assembly though as it’s pretty rusty!

I'm running the MED clutch release arm on my car - nice piece of kit. Also got their roller tip rockers and filter/stub stack setup, all quality kit.

Nice, I’ve had my eye on all those bits and they will be on my shopping list as soon as I can get my block and cylinder head work has been done.

I should actually look at the clutch to decide which type it is - the mounting holes on the casing are the same for both types I think - on the pre-verto they mount the slave cylinder direct, on the verto the plate onto which the cylinder bolts.

Ah, gotcha. This is the only pic I have of the clutch/flywheel assembly when I was mid-teardown. I think it’s pre-Verto as it has the separate flywheel, pressure plate, diaphragm and clutch parts, so the flywheel isn’t combined with the pressure plate as it would be if it were Verto. Could you confirm my thinking as I’m doubting myself a little now! Haha

[Steve220]

That's pre-verto

[ajperry]

That's pre-verto

That's pre-verto

Thanks Steve. Was reading through your thread last night but didn’t get to the end. Amazing amount of work you’ve done (I’m only up to the Part where you’ve got the shell back from the body shop)!

[Steve220]

That's pre-verto

That's pre-verto

Thanks Steve. Was reading through your thread last night but didn’t get to the end. Amazing amount of work you’ve done (I’m only up to the Part where you’ve got the shell back from the body shop)!

Thanks chap! Appreciated!

[ajperry]

Morning all. Just got back from my local machine shop, Classic & Modern Engine Services in Bracknell. They’ve come highly recommended from my friends and the mini garages in the area.

Had them take a look at the block as I wasn’t sure about the condition of the bores and unfortunately they confirmed my fears. All the bores are scored and need work as the engine had been sat for a while leading to surface rust.

So, as it’s a 1380, I can’t bore it out any further so they have suggested to get the block sleeved to 1330, which I am happy to do as I’d rather keep this block and have it sorted properly.

They will also skim the block for me, remove the old cam bearings and fit my new ones.

I also had a look at their cylinder head work while I was there. They showed me an example of the porting work they had just done on an A+ head, including larger 35.6/31mm valves and unleaded exhaust inserts and their work was excellent. Full removal of the valve guide boss castings and enlarged inlet and exhaust ports which they can match to the inlet manifold. Valves, springs, seals and tapered bronze guides all included. I was impressed with their work and would say it all looked comparable to the recommended names that have been suggested. Competitively priced too.

So looks like I’ll be ordering some parts, namely some +60 pistons, cam bearings, big end bearings and main bearings before taking things back to them to start work!

Also got some nice bits from DSN delivered this week which I’ll post about later when I’ve more time...