187 replies to this topic

[Curley]

I beadblasted an expensive aluminium VW race prepped case a few years ago , both halves inside and out ..... more for appearance than anything else.
I flushed it out submerged in baths of petrol ... the bead could be seen settling in the bottom of the plastic tub after every flush.
I did it numerous times and then when no more bead was showing assembled the engine.
It started , revved it up a few times then the crank/rods seized solid .

 

OUCH!! Chemical clearing has always been enough for me

[Tones61]

Be very , very , careful that you clean all the media out of the passages particularly in the block.
To do it properly you’ll have to remove all plugs to ensure passages are clear.
I’m not so familiar with the “geography” of mini blocks .. you may need to drill / tap and plug if there are any blind end passages.
Any media left in there is almost sure to cause a seizure.

Thanks buddy I’m not confident I’ve got absolutely all of it all out so it’ll be the first thing I tell the machine shop and hopefully they can flush it out or what ever needs to happen. Rather leave that to the professionals, as you say it could be catastrophic!

It's gonna need all gallery plugs drilling out and a mega power washer sesh,

[ajperry]

Thanks all for the responses. I’m thinking with the hassle of removing all the plugs and having to get the block sleeved I’d probably be better off (stress and money-wise) sourcing another block.
So, I’ve put an ad in the Wanted section. Anyone got a decent 1275 A+ non-injection block with main caps I can buy?

....and does anyone fancy purchasing a large paperweight? ?

[ajperry]

Finally made a decision on a cam.

Trawled through so many reviews, advice, builds and I went for the Swiftune SW5-07. And it arrived yesterday, the day after I ordered it. Top service. Got their rebuilt kit which comes with the cam, followers, locktab and oil pump. Also bought a main strap and bolts.



Can’t wait to get a block sorted so I can get this stuff off to the machine shop!

[ajperry]

Morning all, and happy Father’s Day to all those dads, step-dads and fathers-to-be!

I have a choice to make and I’d like some opinions:
I’ve just picked up a new block (thanks Roger/dodge44!) which is a standard bore 1275 A+ metro and a perfect twin to my current block. Needs a rebore anyway due to an errant piston ring at some point in its life but other than that it’s in far better condition than my current block.

As to the choice, I’m torn between only boring to +020 (or more depending on the scoring damage) as it’s a virgin so I’ve got room to rebore in the future or do I go the whole hog as original plan and bore to +060 straight away. I’ve already got the +060 pistons but I’m sure MED would let me exchange them for a smaller size. What are your thoughts please?

[johnR]

I would think only boring as far as you need is the sensible option - why waste good material? With the SW5 cam just check the oilway ballbearing is not too close to the oil pump end of the cam. I'm sure they are quality controlling their cams better now but it was an issue that affected mine recently. I find stripping the old paint from the block/head with different sized wire cups on a grinder and drill a perfectly good way of preparing for new paint, then give it a good wipe down with thinners and warm it with a hot air gun before undercoat/paint.

[Curley]

While many will say only go as big as you need there is no harm in going straight to +60thou, 1330, especially as you already have the pistons. 

 

Now you have the cam chosen have you thought about what compression ratio & carbonation, twin 1-1/2", HIF44 or Weber?

[ajperry]

Thanks johnR and Curley.

I’ve decided to go for +020 as I’d like to have future options as I’m sure I’ll get bored and want to do something more in the future like forced induction or similar. Have sent pistons back to MED for a straight exchange. Top company and easy to talk to on the phone.

I’m sticking with my HIF44 so was thinking a CR of 10 to 10.5 would be appropriate but would be happy for advice/confirmation.

Looking forward to getting the MED stub stack and air filter from you Curley!

[Curley]

On there way to you mate :)

[ajperry]

Excited!
Dropping these bits of at the machine shop tomorrow for the fine tuning.
Block to be acid dipped/cleaned, bored to +020, deck skimmed to give 10:1 CR, new cam bearings installed.
Centre main bearing cap to be ground flat to allow for new centre main strap to fit.
New pistons to go on my existing rods.
Head to be acid dipped/cleaned, ported, new valves 36/30, unleaded exhaust valve seats, bronze guides, new fast road double valve springs and seals.
Inlet manifold to be matched to ported head.
Also going to ask if they can modify my engine stand mounting plate to enable me to bolt directly to the oil filter alternator fixings.

[Curley]

Looks like a nice motor mote. I assume you're sticking with the standard A+ 4 speed sycro 3.4FD?

 

Now would be an ideal time to do the 5/16 conversion on the gearbox, if it was something you wanted as you mention forced induction.

 

You going to rebuild the HIF44?

[ajperry]

Looks like a nice motor mote. I assume you're sticking with the standard A+ 4 speed sycro 3.4FD?

Now would be an ideal time to do the 5/16 conversion on the gearbox, if it was something you wanted as you mention forced induction.

You going to rebuild the HIF44?

Hi buddy. Yep gonna stick with the gears as they are, will be looking for some help identifying them at some point as I understand there are some slight differences between some of the A+ sets. Looking to get a new x-pin diff and stick with the 3.44 but again I’ve yet to check if that’s actually what I’ve got.

Not familiar with the 5/16 conversion can you explain? Forced induction may be something I do at a later date but we’re talking years away as I want to get a good feel for the engine as NA before deciding on anything.

Have stripped the HIF44 following the Haynes manual and inspected some of the bits which look to be ok. Was looking at a rebuild kit but they seem quite expensive for what they come with. Are they worth it?

[Curley]

The standard gearbox to block uses 1/4" fastenings. As I understand it as the crank case pressure rises the clamping force is a little weak and your engine can start to leak oil. By increasing the thickness of the fastenings to 5/16" and using a copper gasket the issue is mitigated.

 

No doubt someone will be along to say it's a waste of time/money & to be honest it might be for a road car. However now is the ideal time to do if you're considering forced induction.

Edited by Curley, 07 July 2019 - 05:28 PM.

[johnR]

Your build is going along the same lines as mine - hopefully you won't have the air leak that delayed getting mine running - or what I think is a tired mechanical fuel pump underfuelling and holding it back from finally developing it's full potential. What dizzy are you going to use? the Bluetooth 123 is a great bit of kit (if a little expensive) - amazing to be able to sit in the car and change the advance with a few taps on your phone and then immobilise it!  

[ajperry]

the Bluetooth 123 is a great bit of kit (if a little expensive) - amazing to be able to sit in the car and change the advance with a few taps on your phone and then immobilise it!  

 

Now that sounds like an impressive piece of kit! I shall look into this. I've got an electronic Lucas dizzy which came with the engine but can't remember what it is specifically, it's stored in a box in the garage somewhere!