Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Shuttering And A Loud Clack

suspension

  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 11 March 2019 - 11:02 AM

When I accelerate in the first and second gear from the engine bay comes a shuttering. Going on it disappears. If I suddenly let my foot from the acceleration pedal I hear a loud "Clack". It sound as if someone hits with a hammer a metal bar.

If I accelerate normally (slowly) nothing can be heard. Changing from 3rd gear in 4th gear at higher speed nothing can be heard.

Using HiLos in front.

 

What I have done so far:

1. Changing inner and outer CVs

2. Changing the rubbers on upper and lower engine steady

3. I have changed the worn left hand engine mounting.

4. Secured all bolts of the engine mountings left and right.

 

Could it be:

1. The bulls eyes in front? I have noted at the rims slight cracks.They are 26.ooo km old

2. The radatior fixings? Rubbers changed with engine mounting change.

3. The rubbers in the lower suspension arms fixings? They are 35.000 km old.

 

 

 

 



#2 cal844

cal844

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,326 posts
  • Local Club: www.scottishmini.net

Posted 11 March 2019 - 11:23 AM

Could be the top engine steady bolt isn't tight or the bottom plate welded to the bulkhead has snapped

#3 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,010 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 11 March 2019 - 11:27 AM

lift bonnet and rev the engine. is it rocking? if yes that will be the knocking.



#4 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 11 March 2019 - 12:20 PM

The engine is not rocking and I had s.o. moving the steering whell and I checked if the engine moves. Nothing moves.

 

@ cal844             What do you mean with "the bottom plate welded to the bulkhead has snapped"



#5 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 12 March 2019 - 09:39 AM

No one an idea?



#6 dyshipfakta

dyshipfakta

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,466 posts

Posted 12 March 2019 - 09:55 AM

The plate that attaches to the bulkhead can snap and allows the engine steady to move. (Mine did this) it’s gonna be something attached to the engine hitting the shell.

The engine moves very differently when in motion and in gear to sat still revving. It may be very hard to find but exhaust , carb, engine mounts, subframe mounts could be anything really

#7 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 30 March 2019 - 10:12 AM

The search goes on and I will report when I found it. :whistling:



#8 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,179 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Stone Cross
  • Local Club: EDMC

Posted 30 March 2019 - 12:02 PM

The subframe mounts at the rear where they mount to the toeboard???



#9 phillrulz

phillrulz

    Speeding Along Now

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 379 posts
  • Location: North West London

Posted 30 March 2019 - 01:14 PM

Two problems i had, bolts holding the disks to the drive flange were finger loose."clack" when letting off accelerator was caused buy the disks rotating. 

 

Top engine stead to bulkhead was what felt tight ( couldn't rock engine by hand) was loose and the engine was rocking under acceleration. 



#10 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 07 April 2019 - 10:45 AM

The subframe mounts at the rear where they mount to the toeboard???

YES; BUT i WILL SPECIALLY CONTROL THEM:

 

Two problems i had, bolts holding the disks to the drive flange were finger loose."clack" when letting off accelerator was caused buy the disks rotating. 

 

Top engine stead to bulkhead was what felt tight ( couldn't rock engine by hand) was loose and the engine was rocking under acceleration. 

 

THEY WILL BE CHECKED TOO.


Edited by Alpenflitzer, 07 April 2019 - 10:46 AM.


#11 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 07 April 2019 - 10:50 AM

I have ordered an adjustable upper engine steady to be in the position to adjust if necessary.

As the lower engine steady has the possibility that I can lift the engine a tiny bit, I will try this to.

Next Job are the Rubber Balls and the HiLos and knuckles.

 

I will also check the mountings of the steering on the toeboard.


Edited by Alpenflitzer, 07 April 2019 - 10:53 AM.


#12 dodge44

dodge44

    Passed Test

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 30 posts
  • Location: Dorset

Posted 07 April 2019 - 07:24 PM

I would look at replacing the drive flanges (21A1270) as you often get the noises you describe when they are worn. The diameter that compresses onto the inner race of the bearings wears and you can tighten it up as much as you like but to no avail. It sounds just like the sort of racket you would expect with worn swivels, suspension knock or flaky engine steadies but is not... New Vs knackered image attached.Attached File  Mini drive flange 21A1270 new vs worn.jpg   55.95K   0 downloads


Edited by dodge44, 07 April 2019 - 07:43 PM.


#13 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 12 May 2019 - 05:26 PM

Thanks dodge44 that could be the solution to the problem. Sorry that I come so late.

I have done the following test yesterday: 

TEST 1: Steep hill starting in the first gear at the steepest part with power....it shutters.   

TEST 2: Starting at the same point but backwards in the rear gear with power...nothing coul be heard or felt.!!

TEST 3: The car is standing on a flat part in the garage, engine not running. It is in the first gear. Handbrake is loose. Then I tried to push  the car by hand forward.....it  moved only only a tiny bit, so that indicates to me that there is nothing knackered - or?.

 

What do you mean reading these 3 tests?

It would be very helpful to get your ideas about the tests because the shuttering turns me crazy meanwhile.


Edited by Alpenflitzer, 12 May 2019 - 05:27 PM.


#14 cal844

cal844

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,326 posts
  • Local Club: www.scottishmini.net

Posted 12 May 2019 - 09:41 PM

With a cold engine

Place your hand on top of the rocker cover (next to the oil filler cap)

Try to rock the engine back and forth, does it move more than a few mm?

If so you have an issue.

I've had the top engine steady mount on the bulkhead snap in half. We removed the engine as we wanted to fit a steering rack too.

Check these

#15 Alpenflitzer

Alpenflitzer

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 377 posts
  • Location: Near Steyr
  • Local Club: no

Posted 13 May 2019 - 01:47 PM

The plate that attaches to the bulkhead is ok like all other details lower and upper engine steady. Mounted today the adjustable upper engine steady = great thing. The lower engine steady is also oK. The engine is firm like fixed in concrete. :geek:

 

So next step is to dismantle and check the drive flanges and needle bearings.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: suspension

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares