15 replies to this topic

[Toffe98]

Hi!

I'm having a bit of a problem with my rear hubs, or it could be the wheel bearings aswell. When I install the bearing they seat just nicely and spin nice and freely when fingertight in place. But when I get out the torque wrench and start tightening them they get stuck and barely moves at all. Do you have any ideas of what might be wrong? The car in question is from 1981 and the bearings are brand new but the hubs are original (I think, at least I haven't replaced them). I have checked multiple times that the bearing seats are all the way in and there's no other visible flaws in the hubs what I can tell, but it seems like the bearings aren't quite touching each other and therefore get stuck when tightened down, no clue why that would happen though.

Any ideas/advice is greatly appreciated! 

[Spider]

Some of the after market Bearings do have excessive pre-load. I've had a couple of sets fail from this.

 

What brand of Bearings are they?

[cal844]

I have used cheap rear bearings (Drive tec) from a local supplier here in Scotland.

If I fitted these to torque the bearing would be very tight but moveable, after 50 miles the bearing was checked for play(rock the wheel 12 and 6 then 9 and 3)
Very significant play. Replaced under warranty like for like and the same issue but failure after twice the distance. I ended up fitting a more reputable, non timken bearing (iirc I only paid £30 for the better quality part) and it's been nipped up once. I do now check the suspension etc once a month to be safe.

So fit bearings that can be traced to the manufacturers production line

[mini13]

As said some bearings do have excess preload, I always use genuine timkin bearings, and also the hub can be off too, so, I don't use the manual torque, I use " nipped up" and then on to the next hole.

This is especially true for alloy hubs as the grow when warm.

[cal844]

As said some bearings do have excess preload, I always use genuine timkin bearings, and also the hub can be off too, so, I don't use the manual torque, I use " nipped up" and then on to the next hole.

This is especially true for alloy hubs as the grow when warm.

I use the nipped and next hole technique, the issue arises when nipped up, then next hole there is excessive play on brand new parts.

[Toffe98]

Some of the after market Bearings do have excessive pre-load. I've had a couple of sets fail from this.

 

What brand of Bearings are they?

Thanks for all the replies! It's quite a while since I got them, only now did I get around to installing them so I'm not 100% sure of which ones they are, but I believe they're the cheapest ones from Minisport (priced at 11.64£ atm). The hubs had the old ball bearings installed when I got the car.

 

Any bearings you recommend, preferrably cheaper than the Timkens     Also, links would be greatly appreciated!

Edited by Toffe98, 17 March 2019 - 08:33 PM.

[cian]

I’ve genuine nos rear timkens at £30

[Cooperman]

Buy cheap, buy twice!

[Toffe98]

You have them on your car or for sale? If they're for sale I might be interested ?

[Rorf]

As said some bearings do have excess preload, I always use genuine timkin bearings, and also the hub can be off too, so, I don't use the manual torque, I use " nipped up" and then on to the next hole.

This is especially true for alloy hubs as the grow when warm.

 

Which is the next hole after nipping up, forward or back?

[cian]

I stock them toffe98, if I wouldn’t fit it to my car I won’t sell it that’s my ethos in the trade

[mini13]

Next hole tighter wise, and nipping up is just past has tight

[Toffe98]

I stock them toffe98, if I wouldn’t fit it to my car I won’t sell it that’s my ethos in the trade

Oh okay, cool! I'll try to just tighten them "snug and a bit" but otherwise I might order some from you! 

Edited by Toffe98, 19 March 2019 - 05:49 PM.

[Mini Manannán]

 

Some of the after market Bearings do have excessive pre-load. I've had a couple of sets fail from this.

 

What brand of Bearings are they?

 they're the cheapest ones from Minisport 

 

There's your problem!

[genpop]

on the german mini-forum somebody had the same problem and got this answer:

"If rust has formed between the rocker arm and the brake anchor plate, this pushes the armature plate towards the wheel flange.
In the assembled state, the distance is already quite low. The wheel flange then grinds on the anchor plate.
It may happen that this is then difficult to turn, but you still can not really hear it because (only) the seal-ring (Simmerring) on the anchor plate grinds ...

So check here for grinding marks, or whether the anchor plate between the 3 mounting bolts is still flat, or already slightly curved!"

 

As well you could cut a shim out of the tin of a spray can an put it between the two bearings.Take the torque wrench then!

Or ask your parts dealer if he has steel shims,they are available in all sizes and thickness!