32 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

I think the EVO 001 will be ideal for what you want.

 

I told you there would be so many replies that you would be confused!

[Turbo Phil]

If the engine is standard you'll get the biggest improvement in performance initially by fitting a decent stage one kit. You'll not get the full benefit of a cam or head change until this is done as the main restrictions lie in the inlet/exhaust system.

 

Phil.

[BaronVonchesto]

If the engine is standard you'll get the biggest improvement in performance initially by fitting a decent stage one kit. You'll not get the full benefit of a cam or head change until this is done as the main restrictions lie in the inlet/exhaust system.

 

Phil.

 

except i'm currently rebuilding my engine and have found my cam lobes to be visibly worn, which means I NEED a new cam, and as I have a limited budget I don't think I can modify the head yet. Stage 1 kit I will fit right away if I can afford it.

[BaronVonchesto]

I think the EVO 001 will be ideal for what you want.

 

I told you there would be so many replies that you would be confused!

 

indeed! Right now i'm just trying to decide between the EVO 01 and the Kent 256.  Gavin from minispares feels the EVo might be a bit much for a standard 998, so if anyone has tried the EVo cam on a 998 I'd like to get an idea of what the driving experience is like.

[Cooperman]

I put an Evo 001 in a 998 Cooper and the owner loves the way it drives. It has the standard Cooper 295 head and twin HS2 carbs with a Cooper exhaust. I guess it has just over 55 bhp.

[Minigman]

As Cooperman has said, you’ll get many suggestions on cam choice. I’ve run a 998 albeit with a 295 cylinder head and twin HS2s on a Kent 266 cam. It was a great drive. With a 3.44 final drive it was nippy all the way from 1000rpm to 5500rpm. It was also fitted with a Maniflow exhaust system and K&N filters too.

[cal844]

Set up and a good driver is key. My standard 998 with my dad driving is better to drive than my lightly modified 1275 mini, due to the 998 having a better suited final drive ratio.

Said 998 has put Subaru and Audi drivers to shame due to the handling and general road 'manners'

My advice is to get the final drive ratio and cam matched to keep it on the power for as long as possible.

I dislike running engines on dynos or rolling roads at all, but definitely wait until at least 1000 miles is covered with the new engine (of course you can get a rough guesstimate for a 'cautious' needle and timing figure to allow running in.

Just my opinion and I hope I ain't reiterating

[croc7]

An engine is simply an air pump, right? To get the best result, it has to be able to get air in and out in more efficiently by the use of a decent intake manifold, a head that flows well, something to manage said flow (camshaft) and a good exhaust system.  Keith Calver sells cylinder heads that he has modified for several different applications, are very good and reasonably priced.  I have used one of his heads on a 1293 and 1360 with an Isky 'Torquer' camshaft and am very happy with the result.  For a 998 that doesn't have the torque of a big bore engine, you might consider going to a numerically higher final drive and 10" tires.  More to the point (sorry for rambling on) if all that you are interested in is replacing a worn cam, have it re-ground to your specification, for about a third of the cost of a new one. 

Edited by croc7, 24 March 2019 - 05:41 PM.

[BaronVonchesto]

An engine is simply an air pump, right? To get the best result, it has to be able to get air in and out in more efficiently by the use of a decent intake manifold, a head that flows well, something to manage said flow (camshaft) and a good exhaust system.  Keith Calver sells cylinder heads that he has modified for several different applications, are very good and reasonably priced.  I have used one of his heads on a 1293 and 1360 with an Isky 'Torquer' camshaft and am very happy with the result.  For a 998 that doesn't have the torque of a big bore engine, you might consider going to a numerically higher final drive and 10" tires.  More to the point (sorry for rambling on) if all that you are interested in is replacing a worn cam, have it re-ground to your specification, for about a third of the cost of a new one. 

 

appreciate the advice, am currently rebuilding the entire engine and gearbox so im trying to be careful with how much to spend (everything is 20-50 quid shipping + 30% tax on the total bill over here).  may have to change my pistons though not certain yet (still cleaning everything at the moment).

 

don't know if theres anyone here who can accurately regrind the cam and know what spec so i'd feel safer just replacing the cam. Think i'll just go with the EVO on the basis that its the most affordable (terrible reason i know) and cooperman says it'll be okay in my car.

[BaronVonchesto]

I think the EVO 001 will be ideal for what you want.

 

I told you there would be so many replies that you would be confused!

 

Yup the EVO is certainly the cheapest option so i'll go with that. Any advice on what cam timing to use on a low CR unmodded standard 998 A+ with a single HS4?

 

At the moment i'm not porting the head or anything, though in the future i'd like to fit multi angle valves, port n polish etc as per the yellow bible. and fit a stage 1 kit too.

Edited by BaronVonchesto, 25 March 2019 - 03:12 PM.

[DeadSquare]

Unless you have a Vernier cam sprocket, there is nothing you can do about cam timing.

[Wiggy]

Offset woodruff key?

[BaronVonchesto]

Offset woodruff key?

this!

[Spider]

,,,,,, i'm currently rebuilding my engine and have found my cam lobes to be visibly worn, which means I NEED a new cam, and as I have a limited budget.

 

 

You can have your old Cam reground back to it's original Profile (unless it's really bad).

 

I often use Clive Cams in Melbourne (Australia) for this Service. The job they do is GOOD, absolutely no issues. Last one I had done cost $103.64 AUD + Postage (That's excluding our local taxes, which you wouldn't be paying).

Pretty quick turn around, usually within the week.

[BaronVonchesto]

 

,,,,,, i'm currently rebuilding my engine and have found my cam lobes to be visibly worn, which means I NEED a new cam, and as I have a limited budget.

 

 

You can have your old Cam reground back to it's original Profile (unless it's really bad).

 

I often use Clive Cams in Melbourne (Australia) for this Service. The job they do is GOOD, absolutely no issues. Last one I had done cost $103.64 AUD + Postage (That's excluding our local taxes, which you wouldn't be paying).

Pretty quick turn around, usually within the week.

 

but that means that I'd have to post it to australia, and back and pay import taxes (30%) on the final bill as well. doesnt seem worth it to be honest,