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Inline Fuel Filter - Carburettor

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#1 Alphaboat

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 06:51 PM

I'm thinking of using an inline fuel filter on my mini, it's a 1994 mayfair with a hiff44 carb. Is it worth using a filter and if so where is the best place along the fuel line to put one?

#2 Moke Spider

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 07:53 PM

I usually fit them right before the Carb.



#3 cal844

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 09:00 PM

I usually fit mine just as the hose passes the rear subframe. Although Chris will Give good sound advice. Neither of our positions are wrong.

#4 Alphaboat

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 07:18 AM

Ok thanks for the help, think I'll put a filter right before the carb so I can keep an eye on it.

#5 nicklouse

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 07:40 AM

as the crap should really be stopped before it enters the pump I have one before the pump.



#6 dotmatrix

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 08:11 AM

either place or me. but a filter is a very good idea! much easier to change a small inexpensive filter than to clean out the carburetor



#7 DeadSquare

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 08:12 AM

as the crap should really be stopped before it enters the pump I have one before the pump.

 

All the more reason to have a Morris Minor pump on the bulkhead.



#8 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 09:08 AM

 

as the crap should really be stopped before it enters the pump I have one before the pump.

 

All the more reason to have a Morris Minor pump on the bulkhead.

 

 

With the diaphragm type Electric Pumps, like the SU, that's asking for a burnt out pump.

 

If the filter blocks (and doesn't have to do so completely), it will stall in an energised state. The Coils are only short time rated, so they will burn out.

 

They are designed - to a point- to pass some debris without issue.



#9 DeadSquare

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 09:28 AM

 

 

as the crap should really be stopped before it enters the pump I have one before the pump.

 

All the more reason to have a Morris Minor pump on the bulkhead.

 

 

With the diaphragm type Electric Pumps, like the SU, that's asking for a burnt out pump.

 

If the filter blocks (and doesn't have to do so completely), it will stall in an energised state. The Coils are only short time rated, so they will burn out.

 

They are designed - to a point- to pass some debris without issue.

 

 

 

 

I'll believe you, but in my experience, if the inlet is blocked, the pump just keeps pumping away like a machine gun.

 

If the filter is transparent, the amount of debris needed to block it, should be noticeable. 



#10 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 09:45 AM

 

 

 

as the crap should really be stopped before it enters the pump I have one before the pump.

 

All the more reason to have a Morris Minor pump on the bulkhead.

 

 

With the diaphragm type Electric Pumps, like the SU, that's asking for a burnt out pump.

 

If the filter blocks (and doesn't have to do so completely), it will stall in an energised state. The Coils are only short time rated, so they will burn out.

 

They are designed - to a point- to pass some debris without issue.

 

 

 

 

I'll believe you, but in my experience, if the inlet is blocked, the pump just keeps pumping away like a machine gun.

 

If the filter is transparent, the amount of debris needed to block it, should be noticeable. 

 

 

Fair enough if that's been your experience, but I would say, that in order for it to pump away like that, either there's another fault or air is getting in on the suction side somewhere.

 

My own experience, both on my own cars and those of customers (when in the trade) is they do burn out.

 

" Blockage

Should the pump labour whether the fuel tank line is connected or not, then there is blockage in the suction side of the pump and the first stage is to clean the fuel filters in the pump. If the pump then strokes freely while still disconnected and labours on re-coupling the fuel tank line, then there is obstruction in that fuel line which can best be cleaned by cleaning the fuel tank and fuel line filters (if fitted) and by blowing compressed air down the fuel line from the pump end. The best way to tell whether a pump is labouring or merely stroking slowly (as at idling engine speed) is to feel it - if the pump is hot (taking into consideration the normal temperature and not forgetting the influence of engine heat) then the pump is labouring. These pumps will still function even when they are so hot that it is unbearable for the hand to remain touching. Removal of the end cover and observation of the contact points will also show whether the pump is labouring - if it is, the points will be closed for most of the time. It is very bad indeed to allow these plumps to overheat because the coil insulation may break down and if it does, then possibly

the most expensive part of the pump has failed. "

 

from here    http://www.da7c.co.u...p servicing.htm

 

While this guy says they will work when quite hot (and then eventually burn out) because of the location of the pumps and how quiet they run, one doesn't know there's a blockage until it's burnt out.



#11 DeadSquare

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 11:19 AM

Well I can't argue with that, but for my own satisfaction, after grandchildren's Easter holidays are over, I'll go through some boxes and sort one out.

 

May we conclude, that there should not be a dirty filter between the tank and the pump, and if filtered fuel to the carb is required, that the place for a filter is between the pump and the carb ?



#12 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 06:47 PM

May we conclude, that there should not be a dirty filter between the tank and the pump, and if filtered fuel to the carb is required, that the place for a filter is between the pump and the carb ?

 

Yes, of course, but I think we'll also agree that regardless of where one chooses to fit a filter, it does need to be checked and periodically, replaced.

 

I am a believer in replacing them about once a year as there's always some tiny amount of moisture in petrol and most filters are paper based, the moisture does make the paper swell and they can block from that, or at the least, reduce flow.

 

I've seen the glass types that have a gauze in them (that I think you also referred to a few posts back). I'm not sure what's available in the UK in these types, but the ones that seem to be sold here and very poor as a filter, the gauze is too big to be of any use.



#13 DeadSquare

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 07:11 PM

The gauze in modern glass water traps in UK is not as fine as it was 50 years ago.



#14 alex-95

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 04:27 PM

Any recommendations on the best filters to use? 



#15 cal844

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 06:01 PM

Any recommendations on the best filters to use?


Ask an MOT tester for one 😉





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