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Liners Or Just Gasket Marked ?


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#1 Fastorq

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:14 AM

Can’t tell

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#2 imack

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:34 AM

Is the gearbox fitted? Easy to tell from below.

#3 GraemeC

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:56 AM

Gasket - liners are much thinner than that.



#4 Fastorq

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 01:45 PM

Is the gearbox fitted? Easy to tell from below.


Yeah gearbox still attached ... if it’s got liners then I’ll put it all back together and sell it but only strip gearbox off if I’m keeping it for a 1330cc rebuild short block.

#5 Fastorq

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 01:47 PM

Gasket - liners are much thinner than that.


Yeah, that’s what I’m hoping .. water passage holes have same clear band around them which definitely is gasket marks.

#6 DeadSquare

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 03:22 PM

Gasket.



#7 Moke Spider

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 07:18 PM


,,,,,,, if it’s got liners then I’ll put it all back together and sell it ,,,,,,,

 

 

Not sure on your reasoning here or what your thinking is, but linered blocks are usually better then unlinered.



#8 Fastorq

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 08:38 PM

,,,,,,, if it’s got liners then I’ll put it all back together and sell it ,,,,,,,


Not sure on your reasoning here or what your thinking is, but linered blocks are usually better then unlinered.
I’m thinking about buying a Minispares 1330cc short block and they won’t accept a linered block exchange !

Edited by Fastorq, 13 April 2019 - 08:38 PM.


#9 Cooperman

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 09:03 PM

Why not save money and build a 1330 yourself?

Personally as yours is still standard, iI would take it out to 1293 cc. That will preserve the block for future re-bores and there will be no difference in power/torque - well, not that you'll notice. It's all down to build quality.



#10 Wiggy

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 09:13 PM

Just a question that's floating in my mind.

What's the max bore size that you can then fit liners into? I'm assuming +0.080 is too far gone?

#11 Cooperman

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 09:28 PM

The problem comes when the block has been well over-bored to the point where offset boring has been done. Sleeving can then be both expensive and difficult.

 

Best option is to bore to a maximum of +0.060" (1330 cc) going one size up each time, then when the +0.060" bore is worn, simply use standard liners to get back to 1275 cc. Why risk ruining a perfectly good block?



#12 Wiggy

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 10:14 PM

Thanks. That answers my Q perfectly.

It always seemed wasteful to me to overbore from standard to the max, for 105cc. Even when blocks were plentiful.

#13 Moke Spider

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 02:42 AM

Just a question that's floating in my mind.

What's the max bore size that you can then fit liners into? I'm assuming +0.080 is too far gone?

 

Biggest I've had done is +0.093" oversize (1380). Some people have even successfully done the +0.114" (1400) bores.



#14 DeadSquare

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:01 AM

 

Just a question that's floating in my mind.

What's the max bore size that you can then fit liners into? I'm assuming +0.080 is too far gone?

 

Biggest I've had done is +0.093" oversize (1380). Some people have even successfully done the +0.114" (1400) bores.

 

 

 

Was that starting with a standard 70.6mm bore ?   ...   Did you move the center line of 1 & 4 outwards ?   ...   What was the wall thickness of the liner when it was bored ?



#15 Moke Spider

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 07:58 AM

 

 

Just a question that's floating in my mind.

What's the max bore size that you can then fit liners into? I'm assuming +0.080 is too far gone?

 

Biggest I've had done is +0.093" oversize (1380). Some people have even successfully done the +0.114" (1400) bores.

 

 

 

Was that starting with a standard 70.6mm bore ?   ...   Did you move the center line of 1 & 4 outwards ?   ...   What was the wall thickness of the liner when it was bored ?

 

 

To clarify what I've had done,,,,

 

I've had blocks which were bore to 0.093" then worn or damaged, sleeved back to +0.060" and 0.040".

 

These were offset outwards and towards the distributor side of the block, but then re-centred (as I do as a matter of routine), back on the crank centreline.






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