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Full Floor?

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#1 Gregmaton


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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:02 PM

Hi all, 

I'm restoring a 1987 mini and was looking for some advice regarding floor pans. The floor, tunnel, sills, door step, heel board and toe board are heavily corroded as it's been sat for the best part of a decade. This being said the roof, gutters, front and rear pillars and most of the rear is Attached File  Floor.jpg   12.82K   2 downloadsstrong and straight metal. 


I was wondering if anyone has experienced the full floor pans (including sills and heel board like the one attached) and whether or not they're any good? 

Help and advice would be appreciated regarding order of operations, best way to tackle this and anything to look out for whilst doing it? 

(toe board is fully removed) 

Thanks in advance 

#2 CBJ805T


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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:46 AM

have a read here - http://www.theminifo...s-sought/page-2

#3 jamesquintin


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Posted 18 April 2019 - 08:37 PM

i did mine all seperatly




Buy a full floor and you will save hours and hour and hours of work



#4 Verderad


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Posted 19 April 2019 - 06:52 AM

I’m with Q. Did mine with 2 half floor assemblies from MMachine and heal board. Wish I went for full floor.

#5 Mito


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Posted 19 April 2019 - 07:06 AM

I've done it both ways.


Lining up the full floor is a bit more stressful but it is a lot less work in the end.

#6 srx600


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Posted 19 April 2019 - 09:23 PM

Full floor gets my vote as well. I initially tried to retain the tunnel but couldn't get everything to line up. Full floor was much easier to get everything aligned.

#7 Ben_O


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Posted 20 April 2019 - 09:50 AM

A new full floor is a very easy job.

As long as you have bracing to support the shell to keep it square, then you can just take to the old floor with a cutting disc and lop the whole thing out.

I would go for the floor that has the outer sills, cross member and heelboard. They are not hugely expensive and cut the workload in half and gives you a much better finish.


I start by cutting along the top of the outer sill, then along the top of the inner sill just beneath the line of spot welds that attach it to the step then right across the front of the floor just before the toeboard join and then across the heel board.


Once the bulk is dropped out, you can remove the rest carefully hopefully by drilling the spot welds if someone hasn't been there too much before.


I have done a few now. Take a look at these if they help?




Obviously, that is a pick-up but the process is basically the same and you can see the frame I use






#8 Daz1968


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Posted 22 April 2019 - 12:23 PM

Another agreement with full floor, I used an m machine full assembly in my mk2 and it was a very easy job compared to part panels I had done previously on my mk1. Well worth the price and it instantly gives correct reference points for building the car true.
I found virtually every other panel fell into place as I basically rebuilt around the floor.

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