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The Bleedin Brakes


Best Answer REDICE , 25 December 2021 - 10:54 PM

SOLUTION: 

Staying well clear of MINIBITZ ( thanks for the brake fluid all over my rims cnut).   

Took the car to a mini racer

1/2 inch rear wheel cylinders did the trick! Awesome brakes now!!

Thanks Foggy!!

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#1 REDICE

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:29 AM

I have just replaced all of the components in my braking system. Are they compatible?

Late model twin master with pressure switch and same size (metric?) unions, bulkhead pressure reducing valve, Metro 4pot & vented disks, 3/4" rear slaves.

Rears adjusted up, all new shoes and pads. Bleed nipples at the top.

One man brake bottle has clear air free fluid flowing in good amounts at all slaves. I have bled the unions at the master and the valve inlet and outlets with good fluid flow.

Really crappy pedal - can make it touch the floor.

Is it a case of more bleeding? or smaller rear slaves?

Cheers for any suggestions.



#2 Spider

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:42 AM

Are the Calipers New or recently been overhauled ?

 

While not completely related to your pedal, IMO, the Rear Wheel Cylinders you have fitted are too large.



#3 Twincam

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 05:13 AM

When coming to bleeding, I've found pumping the brakes and leaving them down (block of wood against the peddle) over night.

Also getting so some to help pump whilst you bleed I've found works better than eazi-bleed or such like.

#4 cal844

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:43 PM

Ditch the pressure bleeder. Get an asssistant to work the pedal. Are you bleeding in the correct sequence?

If you have a FAMwtf valve on the bulkhead I'd suggest cracking the unions here until fluid weeps, get your assistant to pump the pedal until you don't hear air, then tighten the unions up. Now go to the wheel end of the pipes, open the nipple and get your assistant to pump the pedal 10 times (hold pedal down until you close the nipple)

Pedal should be good. If not clamp all four flex hoses checking the pedal after clamping every hose.

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 06:15 PM

A combination of pressure bleeding and manually pumping the pedal at the same time works well for me over the years and not just on Mini's either.



#6 REDICE

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Posted 25 February 2020 - 10:51 PM

So now the car is at a mini guy, he cant get a pedal either. Its like the master is running out of capacity. Tried getting rid of the bulkhead bias valve for a rear subframe one and go to 5/8 on the rear cylinders (this is in line with tips from Calvert???) - still the same. My other car has the same set up but the callipers are the minisport alloy ones - great pedal. Is there something about the metro callipers that we are missing?? Is there meant to be some crosspipe on the calliper??? This is a common conversion so it should work. Changing to something else will be even more expense......

Can anyone post a photo of their metro calliper and the plumbing to/on it?? Cheers for the help



#7 gazza82

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Posted 25 February 2020 - 11:24 PM

A common mistake is putting the calipers on upside down so the bleed nipple is at the bottom ... assuming this isn't the case here

#8 timmy850

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Posted 26 February 2020 - 06:44 AM

If you adjust the rear shoes to be solid against the drums does this help? It will show if the issue is incorrect adjustment

#9 Spider

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Posted 26 February 2020 - 07:37 AM

Is there something about the metro callipers that we are missing??

 

 

 

Are the Calipers New or recently been overhauled ?

 

 



#10 REDICE

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Posted 25 December 2021 - 10:54 PM   Best Answer

SOLUTION: 

Staying well clear of MINIBITZ ( thanks for the brake fluid all over my rims cnut).   

Took the car to a mini racer

1/2 inch rear wheel cylinders did the trick! Awesome brakes now!!

Thanks Foggy!!






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