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The Bleedin Brakes


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#1 REDICE

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:29 AM

I have just replaced all of the components in my braking system. Are they compatible?

Late model twin master with pressure switch and same size (metric?) unions, bulkhead pressure reducing valve, Metro 4pot & vented disks, 3/4" rear slaves.

Rears adjusted up, all new shoes and pads. Bleed nipples at the top.

One man brake bottle has clear air free fluid flowing in good amounts at all slaves. I have bled the unions at the master and the valve inlet and outlets with good fluid flow.

Really crappy pedal - can make it touch the floor.

Is it a case of more bleeding? or smaller rear slaves?

Cheers for any suggestions.



#2 Moke Spider

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:42 AM

Are the Calipers New or recently been overhauled ?

 

While not completely related to your pedal, IMO, the Rear Wheel Cylinders you have fitted are too large.



#3 Twincam

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 05:13 AM

When coming to bleeding, I've found pumping the brakes and leaving them down (block of wood against the peddle) over night.

Also getting so some to help pump whilst you bleed I've found works better than eazi-bleed or such like.

#4 cal844

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 12:43 PM

Ditch the pressure bleeder. Get an asssistant to work the pedal. Are you bleeding in the correct sequence?

If you have a FAMwtf valve on the bulkhead I'd suggest cracking the unions here until fluid weeps, get your assistant to pump the pedal until you don't hear air, then tighten the unions up. Now go to the wheel end of the pipes, open the nipple and get your assistant to pump the pedal 10 times (hold pedal down until you close the nipple)

Pedal should be good. If not clamp all four flex hoses checking the pedal after clamping every hose.

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 06:15 PM

A combination of pressure bleeding and manually pumping the pedal at the same time works well for me over the years and not just on Mini's either.






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