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Pot Joint Removal


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#1 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 03:58 PM

So I fitted two new pot joints from Minispares http://www.minispare...|Back to search a few hundred miles ago.

 

I've had to remove the engine and one of the pot joints is totally stuck on the diff output shaft.  The other side came off as it's supposed to.

 

Even with the engine unit on the floor I still can't shift the thing.

 

Any ideas about how to get this off without destroying anything else?

 

Any ideas about why it's stuck on and how to prevent it in the future?

 

 

 



#2 alex-95

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 05:24 PM

I had the same issue the other day and had to undo the boot and split it then. I've got the proper tool and even then it was a hard task to knock them off.

 

The cause, The C clips aren't made like they used to (like every other part you can buy now it seems), They aren't 'round' enough and springs out too much. I've mashed up an out put shaft a while back and the other day the clip. Try and get some old ones.

 

 

GBHlqte.jpg



#3 alex-95

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 07:30 PM

Just taken a photo of the difference between the new and old, Old one on the left orientation like a C, New ones on the right (backwards C)

iWB7cT6.jpg

5ui69xH.jpg



#4 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 09:06 PM

That's helpful to know, thanks alex-95.

 

Now how do I get this pot joint off?

 

I bent the proper tool trying to do it on the car so really pleased about that. 

 

I've been hitting it with a lump hammer on a crowbar from the water pump end (it's the one on the clutch side of the diff) and all I've achieved is bending the end of the crowbar.



#5 Spider

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 10:19 PM

The Issue will be as Alex has posted up and I've had this.

 

I can't say if this is a cure, but the last ~ 3 mm ~ of the C Clips I've been bending in slightly so that hopefully the whole clip will sit over the groove.

 

The Clips are't quite a springy as they need to be and so get bent over-size fairly easy.

 

To remove the few I've had stuck, I've taken the Joint apart, then fitted up a gear / bearing puller and pulled them off this way. It does break the C Clip and it also damages the pressed steel plug in the bottom of the Pot Joint, but these are easily replaced (use sealant !) and are usually a common size Freeze Plug.

 

Another way, though you may not get there, is to use a long dolly (like about 600 - 800 mm long) and about 20 - 25 mm dia. You can then land that over the top of the diff cap and on to the Joint. You'll want a good size Lump hammer to bash away at it, BUT be careful you don't damage the Diff Side cover. I actually have a bar like this that's about 1.2 metres long and that's how I remove the Joints when the engine is in the car. Won't fit in to every car, but will only the less cluttered ones.

 

The factory tool / method of 'levering' off the bolt on the gearbox case can lead to damaging the case.



#6 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 04:30 PM

How do you get the plug out of the bottom of the pot joint?



#7 A-Cell

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 05:57 PM

As Chris says to remove the pot joint
"Another way, though you may not get there, is to use a long dolly (like about 600 - 800 mm long) and about 20 - 25 mm dia. You can then land that over the top of the diff cap and on to the Joint. You'll want a good size Lump hammer to bash away at it, BUT be careful you don't damage the Diff Side cover. I actually have a bar like this that's about 1.2 metres long and that's how I remove the Joints when the engine is in the car. Won't fit in to every car, but will only the less cluttered ones."

Might not be readily available now but a front suspension torsion bar from a Morris Minor or Marina is ideal for this (19mm diameter).

#8 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 08:35 PM

I've been attacking it like this:

 

GW7Ndrm.jpg

 

And it's achieved this:

 

Gwpowkd.jpg

 

It's only an old crowbar but it wasn't bent like that before.



#9 Spider

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 09:23 PM

Hey, that'll be handy as a Pry Bar now :D

 

Try a straight bar. I use a length of ~ 20 mm ~ Mild steel bar. You'll want something longer so you can swing well clear of the engine.



#10 KTS

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 09:38 PM

...would some packing under the pot joint itself help ?

#11 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 09:45 PM

Hey, that'll be handy as a Pry Bar now :D

 

Try a straight bar. I use a length of ~ 20 mm ~ Mild steel bar. You'll want something longer so you can swing well clear of the engine.

I'll try and get hold of a piece.  If not I'll be angle grinding the damn thing off.



#12 Spider

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 10:58 PM

 

Hey, that'll be handy as a Pry Bar now :D

 

Try a straight bar. I use a length of ~ 20 mm ~ Mild steel bar. You'll want something longer so you can swing well clear of the engine.

 

I'll try and get hold of a piece.  If not I'll be angle grinding the damn thing off.

 

 

I appreciate your frustration with it, but unless you are intent on damaging much more than just the Pot Joint, an angle grinder isn't the answer.

 

Just preserver bashing away at it and it will come. I's like cutting the C Clip with a blunt cold chisel.



#13 Rorf

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Posted 22 May 2019 - 05:10 AM

Lie the engine on its side so you can attack the pot joint from below the diff, much better angle of attack. I have a nice thick brass rod that I use for this.

 

The new C clips are really poor.



#14 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 22 May 2019 - 06:43 AM

 

 

Hey, that'll be handy as a Pry Bar now :D

 

Try a straight bar. I use a length of ~ 20 mm ~ Mild steel bar. You'll want something longer so you can swing well clear of the engine.

 

I'll try and get hold of a piece.  If not I'll be angle grinding the damn thing off.

 

 

I appreciate your frustration with it, but unless you are intent on damaging much more than just the Pot Joint, an angle grinder isn't the answer.

 

Just preserver bashing away at it and it will come. I's like cutting the C Clip with a blunt cold chisel.

 

Yeah I know, the angle grinding really would be a last resort.  I'll get a piece of steel bar next.



#15 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 22 May 2019 - 06:44 AM

Lie the engine on its side so you can attack the pot joint from below the diff, much better angle of attack.

That's a good idea, I'll try that too. 






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