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Front Suspension


Best Answer Spider , 05 May 2019 - 11:28 AM

Inside the tower there's 4 small tabs that are used to hold the Hydro Bag in place. These need to be knocked in or some notches need to be cut in to the steel ring of the rubber cone, to allow it to sit flat.

 

You'd also be wise to swap the top arms as the wet and dry ones are machined differently. Running the wet arms will make the suspension considerably stiffer / harder than should be.

 

As you're running Hilos, it shouldn't be an issue, however, I'll just mention that the towers on the hydro frames are set 1/4" taller than dry types, so you'll need to wind the Hilo Screw down 1/4" further than you would when using a Dry Subframe. Due to the frame being 1/4" taller, there's no spacer plates fitted to the tops of the towers.

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#1 eean

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 11:11 AM

Hello, I'm swapping the wet suspension to dry on front subframe, what do I need to alter on the towers inside to fit the cones, I've got all of the set up just need some shock brackets for the inner wings now I think
It's going to be hilos too
Cheers
Iain

#2 Spider

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 11:28 AM   Best Answer

Inside the tower there's 4 small tabs that are used to hold the Hydro Bag in place. These need to be knocked in or some notches need to be cut in to the steel ring of the rubber cone, to allow it to sit flat.

 

You'd also be wise to swap the top arms as the wet and dry ones are machined differently. Running the wet arms will make the suspension considerably stiffer / harder than should be.

 

As you're running Hilos, it shouldn't be an issue, however, I'll just mention that the towers on the hydro frames are set 1/4" taller than dry types, so you'll need to wind the Hilo Screw down 1/4" further than you would when using a Dry Subframe. Due to the frame being 1/4" taller, there's no spacer plates fitted to the tops of the towers.



#3 eean

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 05:09 PM

Cheers Moke Spider that's exactly the answer I was hoping for, Thank you
I haven't got orig suspension at all so had to buy all the dry set up etc which included the arms
Cheeeeeers
Iain

#4 eean

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 05:43 PM

Oh will I need the doughnut compressor with the subframe out of the car please?

#5 Spider

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 06:10 PM

Many people manage to assemble them, if using Hilos (as you are) without a compressor tool.

 

With some Hilo, they don't go as short as others and you may still need to compress the rubber cone.



#6 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 06:51 PM

I have found that you need to just take a bit of the compression off the cone to get the top arm in without swearing too much. By this I mean knocking the thrust washers off the ends of the top arm as you can squeeze the arm in - with the washers on - and the rubber dust ring in place - for the rear - some grease on the faces of the thrust washers act like glue, and help keep them in place

 

With regards the front thrust bearing, I push the rubber dust cap over the top arm, using a bit of grease to help slide the dust cover up, and about 3cm on,  then get the arm in place, slot the front thrust washer in place as the shaft goes in and carefully slide the shaft through -without knocking the washer and dust cover for the rear off.

 

Then with the shaft in place, put the cover plate on, put the lock washers on and nuts, screw home the plate first with the 1/4 inch bolts, , then tighten the shaft nuts up. Finally slide the front dust cover into place.



#7 eean

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 07:12 PM

Thanks to you both cheers
I'll be let loose in the garage tomorrow so will get it together hopefully


#8 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 07:41 AM

Forgot to mention,  make sure the rebound buffer is off, that is the L shaped bush by the top arm, makes life easier as well



#9 eean

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 01:29 PM

Cheers for that
All in thanks




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