17 replies to this topic

[paulg027]

I am in the middle of changing to Hi-Los and upgrading dampers on my MPI.  I completed the n/s without too many hitches, however I have encountered a problem whilst completing the o/s.  The tower bolt came out fairly easily, but now I cannot screw in the spring compressor or relocate the tower bolt.  I have been careful not to strip the threads, but not sure whether to use a bit more force!  May be the rubber cone has shifted?  Is this a common problem?

 

Currently, the car is on axle stands, damper removed.  I would appreciate any hints or tips to get around this.  Thanks in advance.

[Steve220]

Visually, has the subframe moved away from the cross member? I doubt you will have stripped the thread on the subframe, however, i think you may not be getting it aligned when putting it back in.

[paulg027]

Thanks for your reply.  If the subframe has shifted slightly and out of alignment, is there a method of realigning it?

[nicklouse]

Jack the subframe back up.

[nicklouse]

You may also want to check the condition of the rear subframe mounts.

[paulg027]

Still no joy getting either the tower bolt back in or screwing in the spring compressor.  Tried putting the road wheels on and lowering the car back on to a level surface. Tried jacking the subframe back up (doesn't actually look like the subframe has dropped, as it is secured at the front, heel board and n/s tower bolt). I took out the n/s tower bolt looked down the cavity with a torch to compare with o/s, it doesn't look too far out, swapped over the tower bolts and both tower bolts are good as they fit nicely in the n/s tower, but absolutely no joy!

 

Are there any tips on how to sort out my dilemma?  Is it safe to drive 5 miles to a garage for them to sort it out?  Help is required here!

Edited by paulg027, 11 May 2019 - 10:02 PM.

[paulg027]

So, I eventually cracked it in terms of getting the o/s tower bolt in and out by undoing the bottom subframe mounts and a bit of fettling, goes in and out easily now, however there was no way the spring compressor was aligning with the rubber spring.  It seems to be at a slightly offset angle, and the trumpet and rubber spring are seated correctly.  Tried it with the bonnet off and trying to screw the spring compressor insert only and it wasn't happening.

 

I need to get at the spring in order to replace Hi-Lo and renew the knuckle rubber boot.  Any ideas?

[imack]

You can remove the upper suspension arm. There should be little to no spring pressure with the suspension at full droop- shock and rebound rubber under the arm removed. Refitting is easier if you're fitting hilo's.

[Bobbins]

You can remove the upper suspension arm. There should be little to no spring pressure with the suspension at full droop- shock and rebound rubber under the arm removed. Refitting is easier if you're fitting hilo's.

I had to do the o/s of mine this way although without removing the rebound rubber because I couldn't undo the screw. Remove the top arm pivot shaft and you should be able to get it all out.
With my old rubber cone on the workbench there was still no way I could insert the compression tool because or rubber fouling the threads ... just confirming they were the originals!

[paulg027]

I am fairly sure the rubber cone springs are original and after 54K miles all needed checking over, the rear springs were compressed but knuckle joints were in good shape.  I did the rear suspension without a hitch, however it was a different story inspecting the front.  The knuckles were rusty, rubber boot all split with no grease and very rusty bases on the rubber cones.  It could all do with a overhaul/refurbish and as you can see I ran into all sorts of trouble.

 

I wasn't sure that you could remove the cones without a spring compressor without dropping the subframe.  But I will give trying to remove the top arms a go when I get the chance over the next week or so.  The rebound rubber has already been unscrewed so no problems there, however the nuts at each end of the top arm pivot look nasty and will probably be a mini epic!  I will keep you posted.

[paulg027]

So, I eventually got to the bottom of why I couldn't insert my spring compression tool into the o/s rubber cone, and I'm surprised that some of those Mini guru's out there didn't pinpoint the problem.  I thought the cones were original, but it turns out they are not, the reason; the o/s rubber cone has an imperial thread, the others are metric!  At some stage the cone(s) have been changed and for some bizarre reason someone put a random imperial rubber cone in for good measure... Nice!

[nicklouse]

^would have had nothing to do with you not getting the bolt in. and that is why when i bought a compression tool it came with both threads as you never knew what thread was on the cone. most cars i worked on had imperial fitted but the replacements came with either thread.

[Spider]

So, I eventually got to the bottom of why I couldn't insert my spring compression tool into the o/s rubber cone, and I'm surprised that some of those Mini guru's out there didn't pinpoint the problem.  I thought the cones were original, but it turns out they are not, the reason; the o/s rubber cone has an imperial thread, the others are metric!  At some stage the cone(s) have been changed and for some bizarre reason someone put a random imperial rubber cone in for good measure... Nice!

 

Ah, OK.

 

The early threads were Imperial, but they were phased out about 1974 or there abouts !  There wouldn't be many left in cars these days, they usually get changed out as just with age, they not only sag, but get hard (and can get very hard).

 

As far as I'm aware, all the new cones, genuine and after market since the 70's have been metric. Given this, it's not something many here would have picked up on !

 

Oh well,, one for the 'experience' books !

 

I have a 14 x 2.0 mm long tap. I run that through every cone - old or new (even brand new) - before I fit my compressor to it. Then if it's imperial, that's sorted and also, if the thread isn't clean, it sorts it before  ruining the thread on the tool.

[Rorf]

Well being an MPI then I am sure most of the gurus on this forum would have assumed the cone to be one with a metric thread

[paulg027]

Yes, Moke Spider, it was totally baffling and I was completely stumped for a while.  I thought it was a dirty thread because it just wasn't having any of it and it didn't dawn on me one would be imperial.  It may have been a second hand one bought on Ebay or one used from old Mini parts that looked in reasonable condition at the time of fitting.  Definitely one for the experience books as you say.

 

Thanks for the comment and the tip on using an extra long tap, I shall be looking into that.

Edited by paulg027, 11 May 2019 - 05:35 AM.