Pre Verto Clutch Won’T Disengage
Posted 06 May 2019 - 01:22 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 01:43 PM
how far is the arm moving you need at least 1/2" of travel and the stop gap needs to be about 15-20 thou"
Posted 06 May 2019 - 01:44 PM
sounds like basic adjustment is needed,
'Cooperman' has excellent write ups here's one -
When it is all re-assembled, undo the big nuts in the centre of the clutch cover. Back them well off.
Then with the return spring removed, move the arm as far as it will go away from the engine and set the gap between the little projection on the arm and the stop bolt head to 0.020". Lock the bolt at that setting.
Re-fit the arm return spring and pres the clutch pedal right down whilst measuring the lateral movement at the top of the arm. It must move a minimum of 0.50" and ideally more like 0.55" to 0.60". With that movement the clutch will operate correctly.
Then, once this has been set correctly, have someone push the clutch pedal down and hold it down. With the pedal held down, screw the inner of the two big centre nuts in by hand until it just touches the clutch cover. Release the pedal and screw it one further flat (that's one flat, not one complete turn). Use the other big nut to lock it in that position.
Your clutch is then correctly set including the overthrow nuts.
It will work (he said, hopefully )
Posted 06 May 2019 - 02:10 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 03:09 PM
Ok then has the back plate been machined to suit the machining of the flywheel and its spacers?
Posted 06 May 2019 - 03:14 PM
Idler gear shimmed correctly?
Flywheel going too far up crank taper and pinching the 'C' clip and closing up the primary gear clearance?
Posted 06 May 2019 - 03:14 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 03:21 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 04:46 PM
whats the ball on the clutch arm like is it still round in shape or worn? has someone bent the clutch arm?
Posted 06 May 2019 - 04:54 PM
Thanks everyone for the replies :)
Posted 06 May 2019 - 05:03 PM
Remove the starter motor and you should be able to see the clutch plate sandwiched between the flywheel and back plate. Witht the box in neutral get someone to press and hold the clutch pedal fully down, you should now be able to easily rotate the clutch plate via the stater hole with a screwdriver, this in turn is obviously rotating the primary and idler gears.
Posted 06 May 2019 - 05:14 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 05:27 PM
Posted 06 May 2019 - 05:30 PM
Thanks guys. I will give that a go tomorrow and report back :) fingers crossed I can get to the bottom of this one. Can’t wait to hear what these straight gears sound like :)
Pretty darn loud if you've got sc drops too! Music to my ears!
Posted 06 May 2019 - 07:36 PM
As soon as I released the brake the car started to creep forward with the clutch fully pressed to the floor.
There's hardly any disengagement at all (which I know you already realise).
Pop the timing cover open, turn the engine over (perhaps by pushing the car in gear) until you get a bolt for the diaphragm to line up with the opening for the timing. Take a measurement here from the Bolt head to a reference point (I just use the clutch cover). Have someone depress the clutch and make the same measurement.
You need a minimum of 0.8 mm here and preferably 1.2 - 1.5 mm.
This will help guide you where you need to focus your attention. If you are getting this, then the problem likely lay in the Primary Gear. If you are not, then there's an issue with the arm and / or plunger, possibly even a work clutch cover.
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