63 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

http://www.theminifo...ing-the-clutch/

Read through this. Might help.

[Rorf]

If your clutch was set up correctly, ie the straps and pressure plate spring were parallel when tightened down then it can only be the primary gear C washer has moved due to the flywheel shaft taper and the primary gear clearance has been reduced and so is too tight on the crankshaft.

 

When assembling the engine it is a good idea to install the flywheel before the transfer case and then one can gain access to the primary gear and ensure it is turning freely.

 

Of course check to see that the clutch lever ball joint is not worn or bent etc.

Edited by Rorf, 07 May 2019 - 06:06 AM.

[MiniBGT]

I had a similar problem when I used a different clutch housing gasket in the final build to the one that was used to shim the idler gear during the dry build.  Just a few thou can cause the idler gear to jam up.

[Ben_Cunnington]

Ok guys so tonight I’ve been back out and I’ve re- bled the system just in case. I’ve removed the starter motor and try to move the clutch plate with a screwdriver to no avail. I’m guessing I’m going to need to remove the clutch housing and pull the clutch and flywheel back out. I’m starting to wonder whether it’s the thrust washer. I’m wondering if I’ve made it slightly tight in there. I was reading 5 thou when assembling but could that have closed itself up now everything is tight? Maybe I should have kept the original which was 5 thou larger?

[Ben_Cunnington]

Ive also taken a photo on my phone which I'm struggling to upload but it basically shows the rear of the flywheel and about 10mm of primary gear. Is this right? as its not pushing the secondary oil seal up against the primary oil seal?

[imack]

Don't know what you mean by the secondary oil seal but here's a pic of my crank, primary, flywheel assembly if it helps.

Attached Files

•  20160525_192839_resized.jpg   35.25K   7 downloads

[Ben_Cunnington]

Yes that does help and yes mine looks exactly the same. I had a look in there and I’m getting minimal throw in there but plenty of movement on the plunger arm. Really starting to scratch my head haha

[Spider]

Yes that does help and yes mine looks exactly the same. I had a look in there and I’m getting minimal throw in there but plenty of movement on the plunger arm. Really starting to scratch my head haha

 

 

 

 As soon as I released the brake the car started to creep forward with the clutch fully pressed to the floor.

 

There's hardly any disengagement at all (which I know you already realise).

 

Pop the timing cover open, turn the engine over (perhaps by pushing the car in gear) until you get a bolt for the diaphragm to line up with the opening for the timing. Take a measurement here from the Bolt head to a reference point (I just use the clutch cover). Have someone depress the clutch and make the same measurement.

 

You need a minimum of 0.8 mm here and preferably 1.2 - 1.5 mm.

 

This will help guide you where you need to focus your attention.  If you are getting this, then the problem likely lay in the Primary Gear. If you are not, then there's an issue with the arm and / or plunger, possibly even a work clutch cover.

 

 

Have you measured this ?

[Ben_Cunnington]

No, I was going to try and avoid removing the clutch cover, but I don’t think that’s going to be possible so will probably get the clutch housing opened up tomorrow. So when you say pop the timing cover? Do you mean the wok type cover and measure between the diaphragm and the housing? Then depress the clutch and re measure?

[Spider]

No, I was going to try and avoid removing the clutch cover, but I don’t think that’s going to be possible so will probably get the clutch housing opened up tomorrow. So when you say pop the timing cover? Do you mean the wok type cover and measure between the diaphragm and the housing? Then depress the clutch and re measure?

 

Not the clutch cover (or 'wok'  as they seem to be called these days). Unless it's a very late clutch cover, there's a small diamond shaped cover, about 2" long, held in place with 2 bolts that take a 7/16" spanner. It's in the middle towards the top of the clutch cover. It will take all of 30 seconds to open up and another 30 seconds to measure.

 

You can see the timing cover on the bottom of the clutch cover in this picture

 

[Ben_Cunnington]

Oh yeah I know what you mean. Brilliant!! Will give that a go tomorrow then and come back with a measurement. Thanks again all for your help. Fantastic forum! Oh to the Mini owners and enthusiasts!!

[Ben_Cunnington]

Hi guys I think I now know the error of my ways. When putting everything back together I forgot to insert any idler gear shims. I can only assume this is the issue?? Rookie mistake!!! Any guidance for pulling the primary back out and not damaging oil seal?

[imack]

I'd have thought you'd be lucky if you've not caused any damage to the gearbox or transfer case if you've not got any idler shims seeing as you've driven it briefly. I'd have thought it would have rattled badly. Helical or straight cut drops?

[Ben_Cunnington]

Oh bugger!!! Straight cut

[Rorf]

Hi guys I think I now know the error of my ways. When putting everything back together I forgot to insert any idler gear shims. I can only assume this is the issue?? Rookie mistake!!! Any guidance for pulling the primary back out and not damaging oil seal?

If you never installed shims on the idler gear then you need to remove the transfer case so why why would you need to remove the primary gear and damage the oil seal. Having no shims with the straight cut gear will not give you the clutch disengage problems you are experiencing.

 

What ever, you need to strip everyting down again. How about a few photos.