35 replies to this topic

[JDImini]

I have what I think is a '79 1098 engine which I'm planning to strip down and possibly rebuild for fun over time.

 

I've got the the stage of trying to remove the flywheel but it's not shifting. I've got pistons No.1 & 4 to TDC and a 2' breaker bar on the flywheel puller, Draper version for minis. The flywheel bolts is out as I saw a video with a bloke trying to remove the flywheel with the bolt still in. I've wound the puller pretty tight and hit the end of the puller bolt with a hammer a couple of time to try and shock it but no signs of any movement at this stage

 

Do I just keep going winding it up or is there a knack/technique as I don't want to break anything 

 

I've watched a couple of youtube videos with pre-verto clutches and I've got the Bill Sollis Ultimate Mini Builder DVD for some general info as I realise he is rebuilding a 1275 engine which is different and they all seem to do the "Blue Peter" get some of the way through then "here's one I made earlier"

 

 

 flywheel.jpg   108.2K   3 downloads

 

Thanks

Darren

Edited by JDImini, 11 May 2019 - 11:13 AM.

[DeadSquare]

Give it another tighten, and look after lunch.

 

Before pullers were freely available, we used to remove the starter and using a long steel drift , hit the flywheel  with a sledge hammer.

[imack]

Make sure that puller bolt thread is well lubed

[ukcooper]

taken the washer off?????????????????????????????????????

[DeadSquare]

taken the washer off?????????????????????????????????????

 

There is no sign of a washer in the photo.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

[JDImini]

 

taken the washer off?????????????????????????????????????

 

There is no sign of a washer in the photo.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

 

 

is this the washer being referred to?

 

 Flywheel bolt and washers.jpg   106.32K   1 downloads

 

if so it was removed before I started.

 

by the way I didn't chew the washer it was like that when I took it off, honest.

[JDImini]

Make sure that puller bolt thread is well lubed

 

Thanks imack, it isn't so I'll wind it off lube it up and try again

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

You need a decent heavy hammer to hit it with.  I find a lump hammer works well. 

 

Strike the puller bolt hard and square on a few times, tighten a little and strike it again, tighten it slightly, make a cup of tea, have a fag (optional), strike it again, swear at it, give up, sleep on it, repeat the next day...

[JDImini]

Give it another tighten, and look after lunch.

 

Before pullers were freely available, we used to remove the starter and using a long steel drift , hit the flywheel  with a sledge hammer.

 

Just looked and the flywheel's still firmly attached.

 

That sounds a bit brutal, but actually I might use the wooden handle of a hammer to give it a bit of extra persuasion 

[DeadSquare]

You need a decent heavy hammer to hit it with.  I find a lump hammer works well. 

 

Strike the puller bolt hard and square on a few times, tighten a little and strike it again, tighten it slightly, make a cup of tea, have a fag (optional), strike it again, swear at it, give up, sleep on it, repeat the next day...

 

 

No,no, no;  don't swear at it, Bless it.

[JDImini]

You need a decent heavy hammer to hit it with.  I find a lump hammer works well. 

 

Strike the puller bolt hard and square on a few times, tighten a little and strike it again, tighten it slightly, make a cup of tea, have a fag (optional), strike it again, swear at it, give up, sleep on it, repeat the next day...

lol

Ok so it's not easy then 

I'll get some spinach in me and keep going

[DeadSquare]

I have what I think is a '79 1098 engine which I'm planning to strip down and possibly rebuild for fun over time.

 

I've got the the stage of trying to remove the flywheel but it's not shifting. I've got pistons No.1 & 4 to TDC and a 2' breaker bar on the flywheel puller, Draper version for minis. The flywheel bolts is out as I saw a video with a bloke trying to remove the flywheel with the bolt still in. I've wound the puller pretty tight and hit the end of the puller bolt with a hammer a couple of time to try and shock it but no signs of any movement at this stage

 

Do I just keep going winding it up or is there a knack/technique as I don't want to break anything 

 

I've watched a couple of youtube videos with pre-verto clutches and I've got the Bill Sollis Ultimate Mini Builder DVD for some general info as I realise he is rebuilding a 1275 engine which is different and they all seem to do the "Blue Peter" get some of the way through then "here's one I made earlier"

 

 

flywheel.jpg

 

Thanks

Darren

 

 

Before you go any further, MARK THE BACK PLATE & THE HOLE THROUGH WHICH YOU CAN SEE IT.   better still, put the clutch bolts and straps back on the flywheel and back plate.

 

The whole lot comes off together and was balanced as a whole.

Edited by DeadSquare, 11 May 2019 - 03:05 PM.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

You need a decent heavy hammer to hit it with.  I find a lump hammer works well. 

 

Strike the puller bolt hard and square on a few times, tighten a little and strike it again, tighten it slightly, make a cup of tea, have a fag (optional), strike it again, swear at it, give up, sleep on it, repeat the next day...

lol

Ok so it's not easy then 

I'll get some spinach in me and keep going

 

Some come off quickly, some take longer but most come off in the end.

[Steve220]

Id just keep turning it until either it comes off or the puller breaks ?

[TheFabMini]

not to sound smug... but mine was only finger tight and fell off when i undid the big nut!

 

i have no practical experience but as much tension as you can get from the puller without it breaking, take the starter motor off and give the flywheel a tap through the starter motor hole, you should be able to turn the flywheel so you can tap around through that hole.

 

once again ive never personally tried it but i used to sell it in my old job.. you can buy a freezing penetrating spray (im sure eurocarparts/halfords will do something) its a similar concept to heating up the bolt but you freeze it instead. the sudden change in temperature+penetrating oil cracks and releases things.. i used to sell lots of the wurth version and never had customers complain so im assuming it worked