45 replies to this topic

[riktanius]

 

I know it isn't popular, but has anyone used one of those kits from Aliexpress? They have some nice looking rads and pipes. They aren't original, but I don't care about that at all.

The Chinese/Taiwanese ones?

 

Yeah, just look at this 

 

There are a lot of options... of them look tempting: https://www.aliexpre...Text=rover mini

[Pops_Guild]

Is the picture on your profile of your car?

I can't even see the front grill due to all those big spots!

 

Given that it overheats at speed, just for a laugh take off a couple of the lights and give it a run.

 

Might not be the actual base problem, but won't help 

 

 

Yes that's my Mini. Those spots are factory fit ones because of the LE it is. Good point though it probably doesn't help either but I would of thought if everything else is up to snuff then they wouldn't have done that at the factory?

 

Going to give the rad another clean and try a different cap before I replace it I think.

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[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Going to give the rad another clean and try a different cap before I replace it I think.

 

Good idea.  Let us know whether it solves the problem or not.

[luismx123]

Would personally be really interested as to how larger engines -say 1293 up- cool their engines on long drives?

I know I posted about my temps being ok before, but this weekend I drove from Graz-Udine, about 350km on the highway with an ambient temperature of 15-20*C. The temperature sender was pinned midway between N and H. When it rained, it dropped slightly but never below the N reading. I cant imagine how hot a 1275+ would get with that cooling...

FYI its a 998 stage 1 with a fletcher 2 core radiator and a 6 blade metal fan. Recently flushed...

[nicklouse]

Would personally be really interested as to how larger engines -say 1293 up- cool their engines on long drives?

I know I posted about my temps being ok before, but this weekend I drove from Graz-Udine, about 350km on the highway with an ambient temperature of 15-20*C. The temperature sender was pinned midway between N and H. When it rained, it dropped slightly but never below the N reading. I cant imagine how hot a 1275+ would get with that cooling...

FYI its a 998 stage 1 with a fletcher 2 core radiator and a 6 blade metal fan. Recently flushed...

standard radiator with the plastic 16 blade fan.

1380 286 cam just about every carb you can think of (other than the reece/fish) just make sure the block and rad are clean and the heater take off on the head is used (and on in the summer).

[luismx123]

 

Would personally be really interested as to how larger engines -say 1293 up- cool their engines on long drives?

I know I posted about my temps being ok before, but this weekend I drove from Graz-Udine, about 350km on the highway with an ambient temperature of 15-20*C. The temperature sender was pinned midway between N and H. When it rained, it dropped slightly but never below the N reading. I cant imagine how hot a 1275+ would get with that cooling...

FYI its a 998 stage 1 with a fletcher 2 core radiator and a 6 blade metal fan. Recently flushed...

standard radiator with the plastic 16 blade fan.

1380 286 cam just about every carb you can think of (other than the reece/fish) just make sure the block and rad are clean and the heater take off on the head is used (and on in the summer).

 

interesting...but at speed it shouldnt matter should it?  which fan is used

Yea i had my heater on during the last climb on my way back which was like 15km of me having to floor my pedal to keep me at 100km+. Not sure how much it helped as there wasnt that much warm air coming out of the heater matrix inside the car :/

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

A 998 with a standard radiator should run at a sensible temperature at 15 to 20^oC ambient air temperature.

 

Mine runs at 82^oC at these temperatures rising to 88^oC when the weather is hot.

 

It's hard to know what temperature it's running at when the indications are C, N and H.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Yea i had my heater on during the last climb on my way back which was like 15km of me having to floor my pedal to keep me at 100km+. Not sure how much it helped as there wasnt that much warm air coming out of the heater matrix inside the car :/

 

Sounds like you have air in the system.  That won't help the engine cool.  Either that or the heater matrix is blocked.

[imack]

Would personally be really interested as to how larger engines -say 1293 up- cool their engines on long drives?

I know I posted about my temps being ok before, but this weekend I drove from Graz-Udine, about 350km on the highway with an ambient temperature of 15-20*C. The temperature sender was pinned midway between N and H. When it rained, it dropped slightly but never below the N reading. I cant imagine how hot a 1275+ would get with that cooling...

FYI its a 998 stage 1 with a fletcher 2 core radiator and a 6 blade metal fan. Recently flushed...

I'm running a 1380 road car, 37/31 offset valve head, fia historic race cam & 1.5 roller rockers, modified twin hs4's on maniflow manifold and large bore long 3:1 manifold, aldon red dizzy,sccr box and drops, 3.9:1 final drive, 10" wheels, radtec alloy side rad, 11 blade plastic fan, minispares evo pump, 82 deg stat, 13 row oil cooler, heater still in place, set up by Peter Baldwin.
Never runs over N position on gauge even after 100miles motorway. Temp will creep up if stationary but never goes more than a couple if needle thicknesses over N with heater switched on even with outside temp at just over 30 deg c. Bit uncomfortable in car though!

[Spider]

 

>>> Well, the temp gauge went top of the red after being solidly in the middle for over an hour of driving. Pulled over and the bonnet was steaming, opened it and rusting water was spitting from underside of the cap.

 

have you put any cleaner through the engine? rust in the block can cause big issues.

 

 

Before doing anything else, clean the block. It's rusty and that will really compound matters if it's not the cause.

 

You can put the biggest and best radiator on it, but, if the head and block cooling jackets are rusty, it will continue to overheat.

 

You may well find that after a decent clean, all will come good.

 

 

There's many 'Radiator Flushes' on the market, I've tried a few but never found any that were any good (at least for rust). I've had excellent success from a product sold in Hardwares called CLR. You might have to look a bit for it. It's a household cleaner. Put that in (at least a litre) and drive it around for about a week, maybe longer, then flush a few times, then see how the overheating is. If it's OK, then flush the block again (don't leave it too long with just water in it) and refill with a quality coolant.

[nicklouse]

try this. but read the instructions carefully first.

https://www.louis.at...300-ml/10037698

[Pops_Guild]

 

 

>>> Well, the temp gauge went top of the red after being solidly in the middle for over an hour of driving. Pulled over and the bonnet was steaming, opened it and rusting water was spitting from underside of the cap.

 

have you put any cleaner through the engine? rust in the block can cause big issues.

 

 

Before doing anything else, clean the block. It's rusty and that will really compound matters if it's not the cause.

 

You can put the biggest and best radiator on it, but, if the head and block cooling jackets are rusty, it will continue to overheat.

 

You may well find that after a decent clean, all will come good.

 

 

There's many 'Radiator Flushes' on the market, I've tried a few but never found any that were any good (at least for rust). I've had excellent success from a product sold in Hardwares called CLR. You might have to look a bit for it. It's a household cleaner. Put that in (at least a litre) and drive it around for about a week, maybe longer, then flush a few times, then see how the overheating is. If it's OK, then flush the block again (don't leave it too long with just water in it) and refill with a quality coolant.

 

 

Thanks. I wasn't sure what was meant by clean the block, based on your info, I have cleaned it. I used Holts Radflush 2-part and it did seem to clean out a load of crap. Prior to that its been flushed and reverse flushed, again a load of stuff came out. I did another flush through recently prior to its 1st MOT in ages. Its got a new heater matrix and the inlet manifold pipes are new plus new hoses all round (all added/changed after the main flush through). Happy to try again with CLR or Nicks suggestion, worth trying.

[Pops_Guild]

I've done another clean through and it's got a new rad cap and I'm still getting the same > temperature guage stays on the 'dot' if I keep it below 65mph. Any extended time above that the temperature starts to climb.

 

I've not let it hit the top of the temp guage, backing off the speed and allowing coolant to go round the heater matrix brings it down.

 

What I've noticed is that...

- it is spitting water out from under the new rad cap

- the expansion tank is also completely full of coolant (and overflowing so water is leaking out of that)

- took the rad cap off for a while (once cool) it looks like I've got a continuous weep of water out of the system, a pool of water forms on the floor. The hoses all look fine but maybe the water pump isn't sealing? (new water pump and gasket fitted during the rebuild).

 

I'm guessing as the cooling system is supposed to be a pressured system to work properly that any compromise to this will cause it to not behave and could be the root of my over heat? Or are the above things more likely because something else isn't right?

 

Should the expansion tank leak? if not I assume it's a bin-it job? It's leaking out of the stopper on the top and through one of the fixings that hold the bracket to the bottle. I know some say that they're not needed anyway?

[Pops_Guild]

I've done another clean through and it's got a new rad cap and I'm still getting the same > temperature guage stays on the 'dot' if I keep it below 65mph. Any extended time above that the temperature starts to climb.

 

I've not let it hit the top of the temp gauge. Backing off the speed and allowing coolant to go round the heater matrix brings it down.

 

But once I've stopped the car what I've noticed is that...

- it is spitting water out from under the new rad cap

- the expansion tank is also completely full of coolant (and overflowing so water is leaking out of that)

- took the rad cap off for a while (once cool) it looks like I've got a continuous weep of water out of the system, a pool of water forms on the floor. The hoses all look fine but maybe the water pump isn't sealing? (new water pump and gasket fitted during the rebuild).

 

I'm guessing as the cooling system is supposed to be a pressured system to work properly that any compromise to this will cause it to not behave and could be the root of my over heat? Or are the above things more likely because something else isn't right?

 

Should the expansion tank leak? if not I assume it's a bin-it job? It's leaking out of the stopper/valve on the top and through one of the fixings that hold the bracket to the bottle. I know some say that the expansion tanks aren't needed anyway?

[cal844]

Sounds like your expansion tank is needing replaced and you also want to check that the thermostat is working