68 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

If you use 4 axle stands with two pieces of timber it is easy. Jack the car as high as it will go at the back by jacking on the subframe side members. Put two axle stands each side under the rear of the floor with a piece of timber about 12" x 3" onto each pair of stands. The rear edge of the wood should be in line with the end of the floor.
Lower the car onto the wood, undo everything including the exhaust, hydraulics, handbrake, dampers, and anything else attaching the subframe to the car, then remove all the subframe trunnion bolts and lower it from the bodyshell.

Exactly how I replaced mine last year but used new stainless nuts and bolts and also replaced all bushes with polybushes.

Where did you find stainless with the correct tensile strength?

Smiffy's bits...

Not the correct grade. Only warning you as modifications like that both void insurance and are life threatening.

[minifreek1]

Well if they aren't up to the job, I'm sure I could sue smiffys for the wrong grade bolts I guess..... But then again I might be dead so wouldn't be able to...

[DeadSquare]

Long before compulsory crash tests, with the abandoning of a Chassis and the introduction of monocoque construction, the motor industry adopted an "ideal" of a 100% safety margin.

 

While some stainless steel lacks tensile strength, it has abundant shear strength, so for the single enthusiastic driver,  the "Strain" in two dimensions on the back end of a Mini, with no rear passengers, is not going to shear eight stainless steel 5/16" bolts.,

[Cooperman]

You will nit cause shear failure by using stainless steel bolts.
When you see some of the unsafe things people do to their classic Minis, such as col springs, excessive lowering and plastic fronts, the fitting of SS bolts is a minor issue.

[surfblue]

Cant see too many insurance companies inspecting a car so closely that they'd discover you had fitted stainless bolts.

[Homersimpson]

I completely agree with you and cooperman, only if the bolt sheared and caused an accident would the insurance be interested and in this application all 8 would need to break for this to happen, even then the subframe is between the heelboard and rear valance so won't move far.

The insurance company can't refuse to payout unless whatever is in question was the cause of the accident.

[nicholasp99]

perfect... ill have a go and see what I can do myself... I'm a 19 year old student desperately trying to keep my 1991 Rover mini on the road! It's failed its MOT recently as the rear subframe is too rusty as well as all the holes in the floor, radius arms, electrics, etc. Trying to do as much as I can myself to reduce the repair costs so thanks a lot for all your help.

[brownspeed]

Good luck Nicholas, there`s plenty on here who'll offer moral support and advice once you get further down the line with this.

Expect to find more rust once its removed. (I did    )

Hope for the best- plan for the worst

[Cooperman]

perfect... ill have a go and see what I can do myself... I'm a 19 year old student desperately trying to keep my 1991 Rover mini on the road! It's failed its MOT recently as the rear subframe is too rusty as well as all the holes in the floor, radius arms, electrics, etc. Trying to do as much as I can myself to reduce the repair costs so thanks a lot for all your help.

Good luck with your project Nick.

 

We are all here to help and give advice. Never be afraid to ask, even if you think the question is silly. There is no such thing as a silly question if you don't know the answer. That's what we are here for - to help each other as much as possible.

 

To run any classic car you really need to be either rich or capable at mechanical and body work. But don't be discouraged. Welding is straightforward once you get into doing it and the old classic Mini is pretty straightforward.once you get started. The biggest issue for many is the respraying needed after major bodywork. Even this you can do if you use cellulose paint.

 

Paying for bodywork repairs on a classic car is very expensive and most of us on here couldn't afford our Minis if we couldn't do all the work ourselves. You sort-of learn as you go, you make mistakes and you overcome them. In the end it is all fun, although it may not seem like it when you find a blooming great rust patch in a body panel. We have all had to learn and have done so.

 

Never give up  . 

[Ben_O]

I wish you luck. I'm sure it will be fine.

I have removed many rear subframes and never had a trunnion bolt into the heelboard snap or give too much trouble. Just make sure that you use the correct tools to avoid rounding things off etc and take your time working the bolts back and forth to help free them.

The rear trunnion bolts through the boot floor can sometimes give grief when the nuts on the underside no longer resemble nuts but then cutting them off and replacing them is very simple so no bother.

 

Here is a photo of a Mini I am in the middle of restoring. I had no faith that the bolts were going to come out but winding them back and forth did the trick and out they came. All four!

 

 

Ben

[Dusky]

I completely agree with you and cooperman, only if the bolt sheared and caused an accident would the insurance be interested and in this application all 8 would need to break for this to happen, even then the subframe is between the heelboard and rear valance so won't move far.

The insurance company can't refuse to payout unless whatever is in question was the cause of the accident.

Incorrect fastener = Not roadworthy=invalide insurance.
Maybe the lot could start using woodscrews and bondo to bodge oversills on next.

Edited by Dusky, 16 June 2019 - 08:23 PM.

[Homersimpson]

I completely agree with you and cooperman, only if the bolt sheared and caused an accident would the insurance be interested and in this application all 8 would need to break for this to happen, even then the subframe is between the heelboard and rear valance so won't move far.

The insurance company can't refuse to payout unless whatever is in question was the cause of the accident.

Incorrect fastener = Not roadworthy=invalide insurance.
Maybe the lot could start using woodscrews and bondo to bodge oversills on next.

Nope, your insurance would only be invalid if the item in question was identified as the cause of the accident.

Insurance companies can't even refuse to pay out if you have no MOT unless (once again) the fault was the cause of the accident.

If you were driving on the wrong side of the road on bald tyres with no exhaust your insurer would still have to pay out for the ensuing accident.

[Dusky]

I completely agree with you and cooperman, only if the bolt sheared and caused an accident would the insurance be interested and in this application all 8 would need to break for this to happen, even then the subframe is between the heelboard and rear valance so won't move far.

The insurance company can't refuse to payout unless whatever is in question was the cause of the accident.

Incorrect fastener = Not roadworthy=invalide insurance.
Maybe the lot could start using woodscrews and bondo to bodge oversills on next.

Nope, your insurance would only be invalid if the item in question was identified as the cause of the accident.

Insurance companies can't even refuse to pay out if you have no MOT unless (once again) the fault was the cause of the accident.

If you were driving on the wrong side of the road on bald tyres with no exhaust your insurer would still have to pay out for the ensuing accident.

MOT doesnt equal roadworthyness.

[Cooperman]

The idea of an insurance accident assessor inspecting a crashed classic car taking bolts from the rear sub-frame mountings, taking them to a materials test laboratory and having them shear tested is laughable. The results would then have to be compared with the results of testing some standard OE bolts and any difference checked to see what the change in safety reserve was.

It just ain't gonna happen.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

Nope, your insurance would only be invalid if the item in question was identified as the cause of the accident.

Insurance companies can't even refuse to pay out if you have no MOT unless (once again) the fault was the cause of the accident.

If you were driving on the wrong side of the road on bald tyres with no exhaust your insurer would still have to pay out for the ensuing accident.

 

If you had an accident which was your fault whilst driving with bald tyres, whether or not the tyres were the cause of the accident, the insurer would pay out any third party damages and then come back to you to recover their costs as you were driving an unroadworthy vehicle and therefore your insurance would be void.