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Wobbly Front Wheel

suspension

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#1 Rosebud

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 09:33 PM

After replacing the wheel bearing, ball joints and tie rod end, I still have 1 to 2 degrees of play in my right front wheel when I grab it at 12 & 6 and 3 & 9. I'm sure everything's torqued and shimmed properly. I don't suspect the steering rack as I have no play in the steering wheel and the left front wheel is fine. There's not much left upstream to consider other than the pot joint or CVJ, but I'm not getting any click-click sounds when I turn. Worn spline(s) maybe? [video]


I wouldn't bother except I think it's causing some moderate torque steer in an otherwise straight steering car. It pulls right when I accelerate and left when I decelerate, which I think is consistent with a floppy left wheel; the wheel's going toe-in under acceleration and toe-out when I lift the throttle. Any ideas?

 



#2 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 03:03 AM

I'm inclined to think it's a worn hub. Not uncommon.



#3 surfblue

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 06:43 AM

I'm inclined to think it's a worn hub. Not uncommon.

I had a similar problem on a drum braked hub, went through countless wheel bearing sets trying to cure it, managed to find a NOS hub and all good after that!



#4 dyshipfakta

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 07:04 AM

Again hub had to replace mine along with the bearing no visible signs of it being knackered but the difference it made was night and day.

#5 elf66

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 08:41 AM

Replacing the entire hub is probably not necessary. Its almost certainly the drive flange and bearing that are shot. there will not be any visible signs of wear or damage unless you accurately measure it. Your probably only looking at 10-15 thou wear but it will make the world of difference.



#6 tamlamotown123

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 04:02 PM

Could be a loose setscrew on the steering arm ( the one with the dowel)

#7 surfblue

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 07:08 PM

Replacing the entire hub is probably not necessary. Its almost certainly the drive flange and bearing that are shot. there will not be any visible signs of wear or damage unless you accurately measure it. Your probably only looking at 10-15 thou wear but it will make the world of difference.

I thought that too initially and replaced the drive flange, no joy, it was indeed the hub!



#8 Rosebud

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Posted 24 June 2019 - 04:26 PM

That's 4 votes for a worn hub. Can someone explain how a worn hub would cause the play in my wheel? As much as I'd like to get a set of those shiny alloy KAD hubsit seems to me that if the wheel bearing races fit tight there would be no room for any play within the hub. How exactly does that work?



#9 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 24 June 2019 - 04:36 PM

Hi

 

Yes, they are all good excellent responses.

 

How are the track rod ends ?  Are they newish or old and on the car a while.?

 

I know this only covers the 3 and 9 o,clock hands, but just putting ideas in the pot


Edited by richmondclassicsnorthwales, 24 June 2019 - 04:38 PM.


#10 luismx123

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Posted 24 June 2019 - 06:10 PM

i have the same issue. Will be following this to see what it is... 



#11 cian

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Posted 24 June 2019 - 09:05 PM

Question 1 what bearing did you use

2 did the new bearing races go in with little effort?

#12 Moke Spider

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Posted 24 June 2019 - 09:13 PM

That's 4 votes for a worn hub. Can someone explain how a worn hub would cause the play in my wheel? As much as I'd like to get a set of those shiny alloy KAD hubsit seems to me that if the wheel bearing races fit tight there would be no room for any play within the hub. How exactly does that work?

 

Although the Bearing Cups may feel tight going in, if the Cup(s) spun at all, even 1/2 a turn, from a bad wheel bearing at some time, it will wear the Hub enough for the Cups to end up too close together and have play.

 

It could also be the hub just out of spec too.

 

There's a bit of info here;-  http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/



#13 Rosebud

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 03:33 PM

Question 1 what bearing did you use

2 did the new bearing races go in with little effort?

 

I first installed Timkens, then a set of cheapies. The problem remains. Both times the races were a tight press fit and firmly seated on the shoulders inside the hub



#14 Rosebud

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 03:36 PM

Hi

 

How are the track rod ends ?  Are they newish or old and on the car a while.?

 

I replaced the track rod ends and ball joints in an effort to eliminate the wobble.


Edited by Rosebud, 25 June 2019 - 03:36 PM.


#15 RooBoonix

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 02:45 PM

The wheel bearing went in my dad's mini, quite suddenly, and even just the half mile home after realising was enough to kill the N/S hub. There was visible damage and the new bearing races pretty much fell in.

My car on the other hand had a failing bearing for ages (unusual noises which didn't point to a bearing) but the hub is fine and have done 10k miles on the new bearings.

I vote hub. There isn't much else it could be, I think worn CV splines would cause a knock when changing wheel direction whilst maneuvering, that's what it can cause on old knock on wheels anyway. Pot joint doesn't come into it.

Edited by RooBoonix, 26 June 2019 - 02:46 PM.






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