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Radius Arm Dust Seal


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#1 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 09:50 AM

Hi, I need to change the dust seal on the drivers side radius arm. Do I need to remove the whole radius arm for this is or is there an easy way like just removing the bracket and grease nipple nut. Also which four bolts need to be undone, are they the ones arrow in the picture. Thanks

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#2 cal844

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 10:01 AM

The two left hand bolts and there is two on the bottom too, I'd actually remove the full arm and get it reconditioned

#3 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 10:08 AM

The two left hand bolts and there is two on the bottom too, I'd actually remove the full arm and get it reconditioned

ok thanks for the advice. So it is possible to change that dust seal by undoing the two bolts of the left (closest to seal) and the two bolts underneath? Then I assume the grease nipple nut aswell. Without having to remove the whole arm?

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Edited by Benito_S6, 19 June 2019 - 10:20 AM.


#4 Steve220

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 10:20 AM

Correct. However i'd clean up those bolt heads then soak them with penetration fluid over night. They look like they'll snap!



#5 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 10:30 AM

Correct. However i'd clean up those bolt heads then soak them with penetration fluid over night. They look like they'll snap!

I know tell me about. Cleaning them up as we speak. Wire brush, plus gas and freeze crack it stuff. Having a reyt job getting the brake adjuster off aswell. All good fun! Thanks to both of you for clarifying

#6 Ethel

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 10:37 AM

I agree that area is in the direct firing line of the wheel throwing up crud and road salt. There's a high possibility things will snap and  an equal chance you'll then have to drop the whole subframe to fix 'em. Could well be a case of "If it ain't broke don't fix." it if you have current plans to use your Min. If you do succeed I'd seriously consider replacing the fasteners too.



#7 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 11:02 AM

I agree that area is in the direct firing line of the wheel throwing up crud and road salt. There's a high possibility things will snap and  an equal chance you'll then have to drop the whole subframe to fix 'em. Could well be a case of "If it ain't broke don't fix." it if you have current plans to use your Min. If you do succeed I'd seriously consider replacing the fasteners too.

yeah I’m fully expecting something to snap but it needs doing as the mot is next month and I would of thought that a perished seal would be a failure.

#8 Ethel

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 11:13 AM

Probably, not that it provides that much protection. I wonder if you'd get away with a few of wraps of amalgam tape? Looks like it's due a rebuild in the not too distant anyway, so I suppose it's your call on when that is - if the MoT tester doesn't force force your arm.



#9 DeadSquare

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 11:30 AM

That is just crying out for a bodge to pass the MOT,

 

You could carefully remove that seal, clean the area up a bit, and using a couple of dabs of glue, replace the seal with the gap where the examiner won't see it.

 

THEN, when there is no deadline, make a proper job of it.



#10 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 12:22 PM

That is just crying out for a bodge to pass the MOT,

You could carefully remove that seal, clean the area up a bit, and using a couple of dabs of glue, replace the seal with the gap where the examiner won't see it.

THEN, when there is no deadline, make a proper job of it.


to be honest that’s a fair shout. Exactly what I was thinking really. Certainly debating whether it is worth risking snapping bolts just for a rubber seal.

#11 DeadSquare

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 12:35 PM

If you jack the rear wheels, is there any movement in the radius arm shaft ?



#12 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 01:08 PM

https://imgur.com/gallery/nFL0rog
Hopefully you can see that, can’t post a video on here so had to try that link. That’s as I let the jack down. I guess that movement is bad? When I greased it it took a lot of grease so I suppose the tube inside is split. Thanks for your help.

Edited by Benito_S6, 19 June 2019 - 01:13 PM.


#13 nicklouse

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 01:30 PM

https://imgur.com/gallery/nFL0rog
Hopefully you can see that, can’t post a video on here so had to try that link. That’s as I let the jack down. I guess that movement is bad? When I greased it it took a lot of grease so I suppose the tube inside is split. Thanks for your help.

that is FUBAR the big nut should not move. looks like the pivot has sized on the bearings.

 

time for a big job.



#14 Benito_S6

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 01:49 PM

https://imgur.com/gallery/nFL0rog
Hopefully you can see that, can’t post a video on here so had to try that link. That’s as I let the jack down. I guess that movement is bad? When I greased it it took a lot of grease so I suppose the tube inside is split. Thanks for your help.

that is FUBAR the big nut should not move. looks like the pivot has sized on the bearings.
 
time for a big job.

Sounds good, thanks for letting me know though. Think I’ll just get a recon arm.

#15 nicklouse

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Posted 19 June 2019 - 01:49 PM

 

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/nFL0rog
Hopefully you can see that, can’t post a video on here so had to try that link. That’s as I let the jack down. I guess that movement is bad? When I greased it it took a lot of grease so I suppose the tube inside is split. Thanks for your help.

that is FUBAR the big nut should not move. looks like the pivot has sized on the bearings.
 
time for a big job.

Sounds good, thanks for letting me know though. Think I’ll just get a recon arm.

 

I would get two and plan for a new subframe as well.






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