22 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

Chapter 14 is always interesting.

[Dusky]

Imagine being the poor guy who made the workshop manual and wrote all the torque specs down.

I mean, that was my question, Since the spec seemed to change from earlier books to later ones and I was a little curious as to why.

I'm not the biggest or strongest person and to be honest, I have found that if I tighten a nut or bolt on the car such that it is tight for me, someone can usually come along and tighten it further. Hence, I try to stick to the book torque specs. Putting numbers to things makes it less likely that I'll have made a mistake. It's especially useful if, like me, one is a noob at mechanics

It's the best thing to do really, torque figures exist for a reason, especially on bearings etc.
But mind, doing this by the book is frowned upon these days. ;)

[Spider]

ET = Extra Tight.

Of course I could have used the other expression FT, but I thought that might be a bit rude!

 

I edited your posts the other day as you of all people should know it needs to be tighter than " FT " - 'Finger Tight' !!!

[Rorf]

Love it - ha ha. I need one of those spanners for my tool cabinet, hang it next to the pliers and the 8 gauge wire and nearly forgot - the duct tape. Need these items when owning a mini and a land rover.

[M700FGT]

Im also having some issues with my castle nuts as both front have come loose not long after the guards fitted new bearings.

 

Im pretty sure they wouldn't of torqued them up so i will look at them now i know the correct torque.

 

One question though, could you add a bit of thread tight / lock tight ?

[nicklouse]

One question though, could you add a bit of thread tight / lock tight ?

Not needed as that is what the split pin is for.

[Magneto]

Tighten to spec, then advance to the next hole. New cotter pin. They will not come loose then......

[Spider]

Im also having some issues with my castle nuts as both front have come loose not long after the guards fitted new bearings.

 

Im pretty sure they wouldn't of torqued them up so i will look at them now i know the correct torque.

 

One question though, could you add a bit of thread tight / lock tight ?

 

The nut can appear loose for a variety of reasons. One is that it may torque up and appear tight to start with but can slacken off soon after driving. One cause for this is not the nut undoing, but if there's grease between the Bearings, Spacer, CV and Drive Flange faces it can loose clamping and show in fact that it wasn't correctly torqued up in the first instance. If you suspect this, after a short drive (10 miles of so) check the nut again.

 

Other causes can be;-

 

    Worn shaft on the CV

    Worn Drive Flange

    Worn Tapered Washer (the one behind the Nut)

    The Tapered Washer being too tight on the CV to start with (refer to your other thread and the link I've posted in that)

    Back of the Nut Worn