12 replies to this topic

[will_nic]

Hi all,

 

I have recently installed the Minispares full camber/tracking kit, front and rear and have been in the proccess of doing a full allignment. The front is spot on (as with the rear RH), however the left hand rear wheel has about 6mm toe in and is quite noticable when looking down on the tire. The brackers are at their max setting for reducing the amount of toe in. Any tips of straightening up the issue? A decent sized shim between the bracket?

 

I have to admit I'd never noticed it before, but it could have been like this since I have owned the car (which isnt long admittedly). Just to rule it out, is there anything I could have done to cause this large amount of toe in on the rear when installing the camber/tracking bracket? No brute force was used haha.

 

Thanks,

Will.

[Spider]

The LH Rear Arms (on RHD Cars) sometimes have some toe in which is not right but comes about from wheel contact on kerb(s). It bends the arm itself and they do bend surprisingly easy.

 

They can be bent back, but you do need a press to do them in and a means to hold them so they can be bent back in the right way. You also need a jig to measure it so you know where you are at. I have made these jigs and do regularly bend them back (and in fact, take them a bit further so they can then be shimmed back).

 

Without these means, it would be easier to find another arm, which hopefully, isn't bent.

 

Shims can be added to the outboard bracket, but that's only to correct for excessive Toe In.

[will_nic]

Hmmm, thanks for the reply. I have access to a press at work so maybe I'll have to think about that. In the short term, is there a limit to how much I could safely shim the outboard bracket? Also do you know roughly what thickness I might need to correct approximately 5mm of toe in (6mm currently, -5mm =1mm toe in). I guess if I measure the width of the radius arm I can use some trig to calculate it...

 

Thanks.

The LH Rear Arms (on RHD Cars) sometimes have some toe in which is not right but comes about from wheel contact on kerb(s). It bends the arm itself and they do bend surprisingly easy.

 

They can be bent back, but you do need a press to do them in and a means to hold them so they can be bent back in the right way. You also need a jig to measure it so you know where you are at. I have made these jigs and do regularly bend them back (and in fact, take them a bit further so they can then be shimmed back).

 

Without these means, it would be easier to find another arm, which hopefully, isn't bent.

 

Shims can be added to the outboard bracket, but that's only to correct for excessive Toe In.

[Spider]

Sadly, shimming won't help here.

 

Adding shims increases Toe Out, which is what you have and shimming will only make this worse. The outboard end of the arm, needs to move forward and as there's likely no shims in there now (they weren't fitted by the factory), there's no where to go.

 

While shims were not fitted, nor offered by the factory, they recommend a maximum limit of adding no more than 0.120" of shims here.

 

Also, just check that the inboard end of the pin's Nut is tight and that the hole in the subframe here hasn't worn.

[Cooperman]

I thought the problem was excessive toe-in.

That can easily be shimmed oot using a set of shime as supplied by Mini Spares.

The rear needs between 2 mm and 4 mm toe-in total, i.e. 1 mm to 2 mm on each wheel. It is important to align the rears with the front wheels when the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, so a 4-wheel alignment rig is needed, or you can use the old and trusted 'string, measuring tape and straight-edge' method which does actually work. For best results the camber of the rear wheels should be zero to 0.5 degrees negative.

[Spider]

I thought the problem was excessive toe-in.

That can easily be shimmed oot using a set of shime as supplied by Mini Spares.

The rear needs between 2 mm and 4 mm toe-in total, i.e. 1 mm to 2 mm on each wheel. It is important to align the rears with the front wheels when the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, so a 4-wheel alignment rig is needed, or you can use the old and trusted 'string, measuring tape and straight-edge' method which does actually work. For best results the camber of the rear wheels should be zero to 0.5 degrees negative.

 

Yes, that's my dyslexia kicking in again!

 

Sorry for the bum steer.

 

Excessive Toe IN can be shimmed out.

 

Excessive Toe OUT cannot (unless shims have already been fitted).

[Cooperman]

With excessive toe-out it is possible to file the hole in the outer mounting bracket so that it is elongated, then by trial & error move the arm until the position is correct, then weld a big washer onto the bracket to hold the setting. In fact, I have done this by filing the hole to make the toe-in too much, then welding a washer on and subsequently using shims to get the correct figure.

 

It's a bit of a 'fiddle', but it does work well.

[Earwax]

Just to be thorough- make sure the wheel bearing isn't in the throws of collapsing

[nicklouse]

I would not be worried unless this is being show against all 4 wheels. If just looking at a single axel things can be deceptive.

[will_nic]

Thanks for all the replies.

 

As the title says, I have a problem with excessive 'toe-in' on the rear right wheel. I think I'll try shim it first and see how close I can get.

 

I pretty confident in the allginment I have done so far and I believe the tracking front to rear is correct (apart for this issue).

 

I'll make sure to check the wheel bearing while I'm at it.

 

Cheers.

[KTS]

might be worth comparing the distance between the stub and pivot shaft centres on each side to see if there's any difference ?

[will_nic]

Cool, that sounds like a very good idea.

 

might be worth comparing the distance between the stub and pivot shaft centres on each side to see if there's any difference ?

[Magneto]

I would def take a look at the inner hole for the shaft thru the arm, I've seen them worn so far  the nut almost pulled thru - that would def change the alignment! I've seen some repaired by welding a large washer to the subframe. If your is worn it means the shaft is turning with the motion of the arm, and you need to rebuild your arms.

Edited by Magneto, 10 July 2019 - 05:49 PM.